Jump to content
SAU Community

Wrecking R33 S2

sus 32
 Share

Recommended Posts

sus 32 Collaborator

sus 32

Posted
Posted

Clearing parts that i have stored up. Parts come from S1 and S1 R33 skylines. Some R32 gear and aftermarket as well.

Heaps of interior parts from S2 r33 avaliable

Take a look and PM me if you need anything not listed.

#1 R33 Series 1 spoiler (black) $50 ono

#2 Unknown Brand Cannon $30

#3 Apexi BOV (ok condition, gr8 sound) $50 each (got two)

#4 Series 2 two door tail lights and rear garnish $100 (white)

#5 Series 2 dash (ok conditon) $100 ono

#6 Rear Hicas unit x 2 $50

#7 R33 fuel tank x2 (gd condition) $50 ono

#8 Passengers Side Mirror (White) $50

#9 Passengers door trims (gd condition) $20 each

#10 Front hubs (LH and RH avaliable, 5 stud) $50 each

#11 Front Assemblies (knuckles and upper arms) $50 each

#12 Rear seat (gd condition) $50 ono

#13 Complete Dash loom $30

#14 Petrol Flapper/door $10

#15 Rear 2 door interior quarter panels $20 each

#16 Windscreen Washer Bottle $20

#17 Set of 17"x7" rims (good tires on 2, other 2 need replacing), $600 ono

minor gutter rash but overall pretty good, (will not fit over large brake calipers)

#18 A Pillar trims (no holes for gauges etc) $20 each

#19 Accelerator Pedal and Cable $40

#20 Drivers and passengers side seat belt S2 $15 each

#21 Steering Column with Barrel, Key and Trim surrounds $80

#22 Hks SSQ (gd condition) with rb25 adaptor $70

#23 Front RH and LH Guards (White in colour and gd condition) $80 each

#24 Reo Bar for behind R33 S2 Dash (Straight and good condition) $40

#25 R33 Engine Crossmember $50

#26 Stock R33 Turbo Actuator $40

#27 Flywheel and Bolts $80

#28 Extreme Heavy Duty Clutch and Pressure Plate (gd condition, hardly used) $100

#29 R33 Brake Booster and Cylinder (no plundger) $50

#30 R32/33 Stainless Steel Intercooler piping $100

#31 Manual R33 Brake Pedal $30

#32 Heater core/Unit from an R33 $40

#33 SRS Passengers Airbag, S2 Steering Wheel with Airbag and Airbag Module $make an offer$ (not activated)

#34 S2 Pink Label AFM $110

#35 Stock Rear Bar for an R33 (need respray) $40

#36 LH Black Front Guard $80

#37 Apexi Alloy Radiator (comes with Apexi cap, holds pressure, slight fan marks on some fins, overall gd condition) $250

#38 Front Rad support (Straight and in gd condition) $175

#39 Rear Cradle (minus diff and half shafts) $75

#40 S2 R33 Rear Strut Brace (standard) $100

#41 Black S2 Boot with S2 Spoiler ( great condition) $150

#42 Passengers Door (gd condition) minus mirror $85

#43 Rear Windscreen $75

#44 Side windows $30 each

#45 S2 Manual cluster with 96 xxx kms $125

#46 Auto Cluster $50

#47 S2 Glove Box (great condition) $50

#48 Manual Clutch pedal $40

#49 Slave cylinder with lines and fork piston etc $ 40

#50 S2 Front Grill Black in colour $50

ALL PRICES ARE (ONO)

PICS ON REQUEST

Happy to Post items at buyers expense.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345462-wrecking-r33-s2/
Share on other sites
sus 32 Collaborator

sus 32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Pass seat belt - sold

centre console coin holder - sold

hks ssq bov - sold

drivers seat belt buckle - sold

interior door handles - sold

window motor drivers - sold

Plenty more parts to clear ....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345462-wrecking-r33-s2/#findComment-5573540
Share on other sites
DamageInc Grand Master

DamageInc

Posted
Posted

R33 S2 engine harness and ECU?

used them in my car buddy

have you got the stock turbo lines and banjo fittings?

just pulled them off my own car last night as i upgraded

not sure if i want to let them go but pm me and offer and i might be willing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345462-wrecking-r33-s2/#findComment-5579341
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...