Awd To Rwd

[dirtyRS4]

UNPLUG

START THE CAR

PUMP BRAKE PEDAL

You have to pump the brake pedal as the key comes back to the ON position AFTER you have started the car, otherwise it just throws an error (the solid light).

deja vu..............................

[Bronx]

oh, dont forget, you have to drive a little while for the system to register it, i always do about 10m of driving before it kicks in. and light needs to be "flashing"

[bubba]

oh, dont forget, you have to drive a little while for the system to register it, i always do about 10m of driving before it kicks in. and light needs to be "flashing"

Wut?

If you do it properly, it's in 2WD straight away (4WD light flashing).

If you didn't do it properly, after a few metres (before I get down my driveway to the edge of the road) the light comes on solid and the car is in a 50/50 split.. really not good to drive around like this!

If you've been driving along in 4WD and pull over to put it in 2WD mode, it might take 30 seconds or so to relieve all the pressure.

[Bronx]

hmmm, i always do it when i first start the car, on cold, and the light never comes on straight away, as soon as i let it roll forwards or backwards it starts flashing, i roll about 3-4m then it flashes.

[Tangles]

attessa repairs cost 4k+

I dont see how it is worth it, buy a manual rwd s2 instead!

but, each to their own. awd = safer cornering

[lilcrash]

4wd stag in 2wd mode = poo car. Skids might be fun but slow cars are gay.

[bubba]

Mine is faster in RWD.

But hey, each to their own I guess

[d1_drifter]

As bubba said, mine is faster in RWD.

After numerous laps at Barbs, it does also feel like the understeer is reduced when pushing it on R comps.

[lilcrash]

Mine takes about 80-100 metres more to get to 180 when in rwd

Edited December 3, 2010 by lilcrash

[WGNPWR]

anyone done this on a s1?

or is it only a s2 thing?

[chuckie]

SERIES 2 ONLY

[bubba]

Mine takes about 80-100 metres more to get to 180 when in rwd

I think you're doing it wrong and it is actually running in 50/50.

Or you're roasting the hell out of one tyre.

Edited December 3, 2010 by bubba

[lilcrash]

I've got an rs4s. I can't spin 1 tyre

[mattye]

lilcrash. Is the 4WD light flashing or constant?

Flashing = RWD Mode

and I think

Constant = 50/50 Split

[lilcrash]

Flashing. It's definitely rwd as it will do a 1-2 second burnout. When my light is on constant it acts like normal.

[bubba]

Light on constant won't act like normal.. steering will be heavier and it will understeer like crazy (as it's 50/50 split, or basically the pump is running flat out, driving around like this WILL destroy things).

If you can't spin the tyres for more than 1-2secs and you reckon it's really slow in RWD, then there is probably something very wrong with your car.

I have a laggy assed hiflow so it takes a bit to get it on boost, once it's on boost she smokes up like a trooper, as good as the 3L'd 32

Edited December 5, 2010 by bubba

[lilcrash]

I bought it from mjr motorsport at burleigh heads so it probably is f**ked. When I had my space saver on one day the front torque gauge sat at half way for the 25km drive home at 30-35 km/h, it just kinda chugged along I assumed thats what 50/50 split felt like. But I do have a constant chug upto 30km/h after that I have a vibration. And under brakes the car shudders really bad. Like as of I was driving across a cattle grid.

[wolverine]

Just for the record, if you are putting a car on a two wheel dyno I would strongly suggest removing the front drive shaft. If there is any electronic glitch while the drive shaft is still connected there could be catastrophic consequences.

[lachlanw]

if your not here to say womthing constructive the f**k off . noone appreciates your negativitey

i do this to my car on on the hoist and the fronts spun so slowly and you could stop them with your hand

if your dyno tuning it then drop the shaft .

light on solid is named "air bleed" =pump on full so you can bleed any air from the system out the nipple while some one tops it up .

if your driving round in rwd mode the front and rear wheels are doing the same speed = no speed difference across the clutch . if you break the rears loose the rear part of the clutch will spin faster than the front part of the clutch but seeing as theres no load on it it does nothing

if your in awd when the rears break loose pressure is applied to the clutch to eliminate the difference in speed between both wheels . forcing the clutch together but not completly (unless your stuck in mud or snow and it goes 50/50) forcing it to slip under high pressure

think about it . rwd will actually cause less clutch pack wear than awd if your driving .

if you wanna do burn outs or dyno tuning then drop the shaft

[chuckie]

well it has been done on DYNO here & not a worry ,BUBBA`s runing WD no problem`s so i guess we have it wrong in WEST ,