Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive got a distribution block from a beemer to make it look nice under the bonner,ive got a battery box now all i need to purchase is the cable, what is your recommendations for power cable?

I was thinking of going 2gauge cable,friends have used welding cable aswell.

What would be the best option?

Thanks

Edited by funki_munki
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345963-battery-to-boot/
Share on other sites

0 gauge car audio cable in a kit is cheaper , welding cable is very good stuff but a pain to run in a car , and connections are Industrial looking , plus 2ga connections are harder to find then 0ga

I have it in my car, and "retail" it was about 200 bucks and comes with grounds, fuse holder.two distubution blocks, battery terminals and 4 gauge as well. in a metal/plexi display case for use on whatever afterwards.

are you going to run two batteries or just 1 ? you need a isolator if you run 2 as chris sugguested

if you use a CD tray or GTR battery tray in the rear it works a treat. my GTT had a 6 disk changer mounted on a nissan steel tray, flat and strong on the passenger side axle area. under the rear deck, that would work sweat with some mods to it. and don't forget a battery in the boot must be vented to atmo or better yet a sealed AGM/Drycell type battery to be legal and safe?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345963-battery-to-boot/#findComment-5572311
Share on other sites

yeah just one battery for more space under the bonnet for pod/airbox so coolant overflow can go where the battery went. 2gauge is gonna set me back about $100 for what i need. ive got a battery box,and ill probably run a flexitube down the rear quarter for venting.

i had a 10disc stacker in my car that was velcroed to the carpet,i plan to make up a checker plate base to go inside the battery box which will be mounted to the car and also use it as the mounting point for the battery.

think ill have to put this mod on hold for a while,just ordered a high flow metal 100cell cat and my exhaust is getting finished,plus i have to replace an exhaust gasket and get around to installing all my audio gear ( ive got all of it except a sub box and rear speakers)

6 or 6.5" response kevlar splits for the front,response 4x100wrms speaker amp,cadence 500wrms mono block and a alpine type r 12" sub.

thanks for your info,ill prolly go with the 2 gauge for now and see how i go,should be ok and if its no good i can use it to make a earthing cables for the engine.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/345963-battery-to-boot/#findComment-5575122
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...