Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well just had a very disappointing phone conversation with a certain 2nd hand parts Japanese-IMPORTS business, that has absolutely no interest in supporting the products he sells. His words; "As soon as you pay for it and take them home, it's your problem".

A while back, i bought a set of rims, but before being able to fit them to the car, i had an engine fault that required a rebuild. After the car's maiden cruise to Mt Bulla, i had a flat tyre, so i took it to get repaired. Unfortunately there was no fault with the tyre, but a crack in the rim caused the air to escape. There is also no external damage to the rim (apart from the crack).

To be honest i didn't expect this guy to happily replace the wheels, at no cost, but to come to some sort off arrangement where i'd be well looked after (ie: he does not make a profit on the replacement rims).

It just amazes me how people with such a lack of people skills still remain in business. I guess the % off shit that farks up and thus the % of clients he burns, does not out weigh all the other sales that happen to run smoothly.

If you need to know who this guy is shoot me a PM

I am now off to see a wheel repair place, so they could assess whether the rim is repairable.

If the rim is not repairable i will be giving Aaron at Import Monster a call, to replace these rims. Should have used Aaron in the first place!!!

Rant over :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346020-buyer-beware/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

If the rim is not repairable i will be giving Aaron at Import Monster a call, to replace these rims. Should have used Aaron in the first place!!!

Rant over :banana:

Im really sorry to hear that Al.

Aaron is the greatest man I know for pretty much anything Import Related. New or second hand, it doesnt matter. If he has the contacts you will get it....and at a great price.

Not long ago he hunted down for me a NEW OEM fuel tank for my EMO 6 from Japan......and at half the cost Mitsubishi Aust wanted. The dude is AWESOME

/mancrush

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346020-buyer-beware/#findComment-5573003
Share on other sites

I know what you mean.. when i took my car for a check on a engine fault he told me the problem, left the car with him and when i came back the next day told me it was something else and he still needed $250 even though there was no work done to the car...

Some people... sad world.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346020-buyer-beware/#findComment-5573018
Share on other sites

Rang up Neway Wheels and was advised that they no longer repair cracks in alloy rims as it may re-crack and cause an accident. I had also been advised by my metal fabricator (when i asked him to weld my spacers to the rims) that welding alloy softens the material.

So looks like i'll be giving Aaron a call. Hopefully he could track down a pair of ragamasters 18x8.5-35, otherwise i'll just buy a new set and use the rears for DECA :banana:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/346020-buyer-beware/#findComment-5573041
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...