Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

UM let me guess.......................STOCK AS A ROCK!!!!!!!

If you had mods and posted 153rwkw from a car that has 190 odd flywheel kw factory spec, wouldn't you be :Oops:

Thats my guess!

That's a pretty good power output then when you can consider the following:

* Full 3" Turbo Exhaust = 10-15rwkw

* Ex Cam Gear = 10-15rwkw

* FMIC = 10-15rwkw

Their's a potential 30-50rwkw just from another $3,000.

I got 160.6rwkw from AVO with known mods pod, clutch.. though a/m boost guage was showing ~10psi top end but still using the factory solenoid so there might be more mods than that (as factory solenoid is supposedly to be 5->7)

Exhaust looks stock as far as I can tell too.

dyno graph

I got 160.6rwkw from AVO with known mods pod, clutch.. though a/m boost guage was showing ~10psi top end but still using the factory solenoid so there might be more mods than that (as factory solenoid is supposedly to be 5->7)

Exhaust looks stock as far as I can tell too.

dyno graph

wow 160 for those mods

very nice

was this on the race pace dyno mupkant? i got 153rwkw as well with safc pod boost but i have an exhaust, mine should probably have more power but i dont mind because im getting cool suspension soon and should be able to turn a lot better :)

was this on the race pace dyno mupkant? i got 153rwkw as well with safc pod boost but i have an exhaust, mine should probably have more power but i dont mind because im getting cool suspension soon and should be able to turn a lot better :)

i have no idea, but originaly they dynoed it with only boost and it was about 142rwkw, then with the tuned safc, they said i got an extra 10 or more rwkw.

Not to mention it was dynoed on friday which was 36 degrees day.

I got 160.6rwkw from AVO with known mods pod, clutch.. though a/m boost guage was showing ~10psi top end but still using the factory solenoid so there might be more mods than that (as factory solenoid is supposedly to be 5->7)

Exhaust looks stock as far as I can tell too.

dyno graph

ive heard plenty about the AVO dyno readings...

Inark, it was on an official WRX club dyno day and everyone else who had their cars dyno'd - majority WRX though, didn't seem to be concerned about the figures (people who have dyno'd else where too).

So since it wasn't just me by myself there'd be no need for them to try and boost the readings.

From what I've heard AVO is supposedly as accurate as Docklands STI's one too.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...