Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

on a more serious note... u get discounts too ;)

Here are the sponsors of SAU:SA. Please be advised that membership cards must be presented before purchase. Membership will be revoked if the membership card is misused in any way.

abLogo.gif

Autobarn Mile End

10% discount on items, subject to the store's own terms and conditions

http://www.autobarn....leend/?state=SA

Address:

37-43 Sir Donald Bradman Drive

Mile End South , SA, 5031

Telephone:

(08) 8234 7344

Fax:

(08) 8234 7355

Resized to 69% (was 830 x 215) - Click image to enlargeweb_logo2.jpg

Ministry Of Bass

10% discount on all items, subject to the store's own terms and conditions

http://www.ministryofbass.com.au

Address:

1205 South Road

St Marys South Australia

Phone:

08 8276 8668

Fax:

08 8276 6776

Resized to 59% (was 960 x 98) - Click image to enlargeNEW_header_TPBW.jpg

Tyrepower Blackwood

10% discount on wheels, tyres and front wheel alignments, subject to the store's own terms and conditions

http://www.tyrepowerblackwood.com.au/

Address:

Tyrepower Blackwood

205 Main Road

Blackwood, 5051 SA

Phone:

(08) 8370 2195

Fax:

(08) 8370 2954

autoPnew_template_01.jpg

Auto Perfection

10% discount on items and services, subject to the stores own terms and conditions of sale.

http://www.autoperfection.com.au/

Address:

285 Main North Road

Enfield

SA 5085

Phone:

8342 6644

nissan_dealership.jpgplatinum_dealer.gif

Main North Nissan

10% discount on items, subject to the stores own terms and conditions of sale.

Main North Nissan URL

Address:

75 Main North Road

Nailsworth

SA 5083

Phone:

(08) 8309 5000

Resized to 57% (was 1000 x 192) - Click image to enlargebanner.jpg

Willall Racing

10% off dyno runs and tuning, stores own terms and conditions apply

www.willallracing.com.au

Address:

Cnr Wilkins and Browning Street

Gillman

SA 5013

Phone:

8341 0400

isc_sig_blue_white_isc.jpg

ISC Performance

10% off parts, stores own terms and conditions apply

www.isc-warehouse.com

Items for sale:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/SA...rmanc-f171.html

Contact:

Ryan Probert

0413 804 117

logo4.png

Inspect-A-Gadget

10% off, stores own terms and conditions apply

www.inspectagadget.com.au

Address:

Shop 1-2

73 Muller Road

Hampstead Gardens

SA 5086

Phone:

8369 1015

Email:

[email protected]

  • Like 1

- Access to the SAU:SA Members forums including Members only classifieds forum

- Ability to come to club events (some events we open to the general SAU public after a certain period, but being a member you get first dibs) ie. Free Xmas lunch (was last weekend), dyno days (the last one was only $25 for members), track days (some are members only), future possible drag racing/drift/motorkhana events, paintballing early in the New Year, cruise very early in the New Year

- CAMS affiliation (cheaper licensing and ability to get certain licences you cannot get without being member of a CAMS affiliated club)

- Ability to buy a club shirt and club stickers to identify yourself as one of the "cool people"

- Discounts at club sponsors (which are many, and most discounts are at least 10% off)

- Able to attend/represent the Club at shows

I am sure there are other good reasons :)

Plus exclusive access to SAUSA members only events, which all include a cheaper price than non-members!

$45 for your first year as a member. with 10% off at most of our sponsors, it doesn't take long to pay itself off and then some

im thinkin of joining, so keen to do track days, dyno days, motorkhanas, hillclimbs etc.. sounds awesome! not to mention discounts! haha but yeh i never know when these events are on, if i sign up will i get notified?? of upcoming events?? so i dont miss out..

also anyway to pay with credit card? other wise ill have to send a cheque thru the mail :)

Cheers.

Scott.

we currently dont do a mailing list that would email users of events, but quiet often we change our signatures with an appropriate image and link to event details

we currently offer

Cash

Cheque

Pay Pal

for payment options

This one goes out to all the members in the crowd,

What is the benefit to becoming a member??

Just curious..............

Chicks dig it. You have no much action you'll get when u show them an sau:sa membership card

-D

  • Like 1

its all in the members forum Scott ;)

Oh really :/ sorry my bad.. Didn't really search just saw this topic :)

we currently dont do a mailing list that would email users of events, but quiet often we change our signatures with an appropriate image and link to event details

we currently offer

Cash

Cheque

Pay Pal

for payment options

Ok no worries paypal works for me then..

So it looks like I'll just have to keep an eye out on members signatures then aye..

Thanks :)

Check our Club Website

Has most things, if not everything about the club. Also easiest way to sign up too :)

If you sign up to the website, you also get access to the members section on there, which has a store for you to purchase and renew your club membership.

If all Club Members were to sign up to the Website, we can send out newsletters, and notices of events etc. It's just that not all members have signed up, or are aware we have a website.

Definetly a club thats moving in the right direction. They have only been around for approx 12 months and have already organised a track day, dyno day, lots of involvement in car shows, christmas show for members, and looots more! Looking forward to 2011!

Also cams affiliation is a key factor for alot of people. :thumbsup:

we currently offer

Cash

Cheque

Pay Pal

for payment options

http://www.sausa.com.au/member-form

Options listed are..

Cash

Cheque

Money Order

Internet Bank Transfer

How can I pay via paypal?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...