Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

I just picked up my block yesterday from machine shop. i asked them to supply me with bearings to suit, when i went down there yesterday he had King Bearings - Precision bearings - i have heard of this brand just not to many people using them..

Should i use the bearings or should i just go back to him and get ACL?

Thoughts?

By the way motor has all bells & whistles etc etc with GT35R

nothing wrong with King bearings, cheap and pleny of people using them. As always it is the maching, measuring and cleanliness that matters.

BTW ACL are in liquidation and are not making new stock - so King are really the remaining choice unless you want to be reamed by Nissan

interesting...I'm willing to bet they don't have many. I just picked up the last set of rb26 ones from my machine shop's supplier. Mains from Adelaide, big ends from maroochydore

i live in tassy and yes unless the administrators turned it around, ACL has been liquidating.

strange thing is i just picked up my forged 30det with a set of acl big end and mains.

i know the the guys at the shop that built my engine and they wouldnt be fibbing to me so i should ask them whos still supplying them with acl bearings.

only thing i can think of is that many companys round australia had a heap in stock so its taking a while for them to disapear

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just had this happen to me too.  R32 GTR.   Also broke "just before going out onto the track" - someone up there is looking out for us... Very scary since I was about to do a narrow street course with zero run-off and curbs everywhere. Many people on here upgrading to billet uprights and R35 bearings?   Or buying new OEM knuckles?  I am not keen to replace with another s/h 30 year old fatigued part.
    • Top off with distilled water and see what happens. If you keep losing coolant then you know to start looking.
    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
×
×
  • Create New...