Jump to content
SAU Community

Suggestions On What To Do Next On My R33

Tweaky

By Tweaky,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted

if you do a run with the exhaust dropped and you make more power then you will know the restriction is there... it's a quick and easy way to diagnose a common problem

i'm guessing your cat is collapsed and hindering flow.

you have the parts to make the power you want, just need to get them sorted

if money is really burning a hole in your pocket, go the plazmaman plenum as the stock ones that have been canverted to front facing can lean out no 6. it's not definate, and there are definately 2 schools of thought on the matter that have been hotly debated over the years, but the fact remains that in some instances it has happened, and on that basis i would not run a cut'n'shut plenum on my RB. having said that i do run one on my 4age but that's a 180 deg change, not 90 :)

dont bother with e85 just yet, get the car sorted @ ~340rwkw on pulp and then when you want e85 it'll be a quick and cheap retune... although for this you WILL need much bigger injetors.... think 1000cc

Tweaky Collaborator

Tweaky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Something is choking it really bad!

Is there a rag in the cooler pipes, blocked/collapsed cat/muffler?

the 426hp run is a lot better.

What do Mercury say about it?

When it was making 426 hp , the car had a couple of illegal mods on it . Like screamer pipe , Atmosphere Bov & Ram pod wasn't boxed in. I got all these mods fixed & made legal . Would this effect performance at all ? Mercury did have a little problem re tuning the car , but nothing which was major & they didn't mentioned anything to me. The only real main problem was the Ecu had to be sent back to Microtech to be cleared , cause the previous tuner put a password on it & we couldn't get it off them. So when it got cleared , they had to start a new tune from scratch . Other then that , all went apparently well & i was really happy with there work on the car. When driving the car home didn't feel any worse , then before i gave it to them , but still really haven't had the chance to really open her up ! They said final results were around the 280 - 290 rwkw.

The only problems with taking the exhaust off & seeing if it runs better , is i live 2 hours south of where Mercury are situated. There is no good local tuners where i live , which are worth taking the car to. So would have to make a 2 hour trip back north to do that ! When i had the car on the hoist the other day did notice the cat & muffler were a bit worst for wear , a bit of scrapings & light dins . The cat especially , also hope there is no rags in the cooler piping , cause they did do a bit of pipe work from the bottom of the turbo which go's to the FMIC. What would u suggest i do about this problem i have ? Take it to a local mechanic for a quick look or exhaust place .

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Sounds like you live in ballina or something. Don't worry about the workshop just ask if you can have a couple of runs at the local dyno with the exhaust dropped and see if it makes a difference.

Tweaky Collaborator

Tweaky

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Sounds like you live in ballina or something. Don't worry about the workshop just ask if you can have a couple of runs at the local dyno with the exhaust dropped and see if it makes a difference.

Yeah live at Lismore , do u know this area up this way ? Yeah could try a local dyno around here, i know there is one in Lismore & Ballina . So would just take the exhaust off where the cat bolts upto , then put it on the dyno for a run ?

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

I lived in tweed heads for 12 years lol. Just unbolt the exhaust at the front pipe (so the cat is unbolted too) and give it a run. Won't hurt anything and will give an indication if what is going on

Tweaky Collaborator

Tweaky

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

I lived in tweed heads for 12 years lol. Just unbolt the exhaust at the front pipe (so the cat is unbolted too) and give it a run. Won't hurt anything and will give an indication if what is going on

Thanks for the help , i'll see if i can fit it in before X mas. If not will have to be in the New year . Skyline is only a weekender , so only take it out when i feel the urge to :laugh: Hopefully this will shed a little more light on the situation !

Edited by Tweaky

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Zoidian
      What's this Foreign Object?

      By Zoidian · Posted

      Forgot to update. I ended up removing it and found out that it's dead. The car seems to run better than it did, although I haven't driven it hard yet. Literally just a flow restriction.
    • joshuaho96
      R33 general questions

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      Sounds like the rack seals blew.
    • GTSBoy
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      ^ This is all good advice. I can imagine that there's some passive components in the HVAC controller that run that PWM output that could die, or suffer bad solder joints. It can be worth opening it up, taking a schmooze around looking for swollen electro caps, evidence of liquid escape anywhere, tracks that have been hot, lifted, cracked, etc. A DMM might not be suitable for seeing if the PWM output is pulsing. Might be too fast and too low voltage for a DMM to keep up. An analogue voltmeter might give a better hope. I use a handheld oscilloscope (<$100 from Aliexpress if you want something cheap). A DMM might see the voltage across the motor flicker. Otherwise, as above. If you can successfully see PWM action, then the control side should be good. If you can't see it with what you have, you might need to step up the instrumentation used, as above. Beyond that, and dbm7's advice on testing the motor directly, you're down to looking for broken wires, corroded connector pins, etc.
    • ChrisGtt
      R34 Gtt RB25det neo Issue After Modifications

      By ChrisGtt · Posted

      So Thanks for the comments etc. To follow up on this, we went down the path of fitting a divider down the middle of the external pipe that was added to the exhaust manifold and the divider went from very close to the external wastegate all the way up to the "V" part where the pipes from each side of the manifold joined. After this modification it was finally in a position to do the dyno-tune with some degree of success. Top end power was down about 10kw (250rwkw down to 240rwkw) I believe from previous but it seems to be more responsive lower down and at least it is now driveable and fun and back on the road to be enjoyed. Apparently the timing couldn't be run the same as it was running into knock and boost was down about 1psi. For all we know this could have been from the fuel being a bit older, or perhaps some slight complication from the new head gasket as we didn't have compression figures from before that mod to compare. I'm no mechanic and this is second hand info but I just wanted to follow-up to those that commented or read the original post with interest. After so many months of stuffing around this is a big win. The interesting part was most of the info around this was gained from information around Barra motors and not GTR as the manifold setup on the Barra with single turbo was more similar.  Thanks for those that helped with info. Regards Rob 
    • dbm7
      BCNR33 Blower Motor Resistor - Testing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      G'day ... first up, I very much doubt that's a resistor network (as used also for this job), but the part# looks right. The description of 'power module assembly' looks to be nissanese for 'PWM driven, ground switched, DC motor speed controller'.... the circuit in the schematic kinda infers that's the case... ...with the transistor symbol appearing in the unit described here as 'Fan Control Amp(lifier)'....being driven by pin20 on the HVAC unit,  and a feedback signal on pin19 from the motor negative terminal for some reason (might be motor fault detection, maybe they detect commutator switching to determine motor revs as well, I dunno)... but if they are  counting commutator spikes, a bad segment (or really worn brushes) will throw a spanner in the works... The motor itself will as said be brushed DC with segmented commutator, rated at 12VDC nominally ~ now-a-days I just unplug them, determine the positive wire, and hook them up to a variable power supply and find out how much current they draw, if they work etc etc ...you can also check for bad segments...ie; set the power supply up to feed 1volt @ 2amp max, then watch the wattage count as you slowly rotate the fan blower motor through a complete revolution ; any bad/dead segments will be clearly evident...some folks would just say determine the positive wire, and feed it battery voltage, and if fan spin, you've got a win...<grin>... well, at least that infers it should do something when plugged back in, and the HVAC unit commands it to run... and if it doesn't, you suspect the module, but you should check the PWM signal on pin20 is actually present, and if it is, blame the module ...  
×
×
  • Create New...