Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

A combination of set figure (offset) and percentage (factor).

For a manual I estimate: flywheel(kw) = 20kw + (rwkw x 1.15)

Derived from stock figures. It's estimating it takes ~20kw to spin a gearbox at high rpm, plus you lose a percentage (15%) of gains as friction.

Seems to work well for a lot of cars, and is a hell of a lot better than straight up 25% loss claims!

ie. Stock GTST 140rwkw > 181kw flywheel

My current 230rwkw > 285kw flywheel

A random 300rwkw > 365kw flywheel

2011 Ford GS 256rwkw > 314kw flywheel, even seems to work for new automatics ;)

as people have said, it can't be a set figure. not just because of how hard the gears are meshing together. you have to remember that the more power it has the faster it is going to accelerate. the faster something accelerates the higher the forces acting against it. so while it might not be exactly a percentage it won't be a fixed figure either. there might be an exact figure of how much power it takes to turn a gearbox, drive shaft, diff, wheels, etc at a set speed, but when it comes to accelerating all that then it won't be a set number that applies to all power levels.

A combination of set figure (offset) and percentage (factor).

For a manual I estimate: flywheel(kw) = 20kw + (rwkw x 1.15)

Derived from stock figures. It's estimating it takes ~20kw to spin a gearbox at high rpm, plus you lose a percentage (15%) of gains as friction.

Seems to work well for a lot of cars, and is a hell of a lot better than straight up 25% loss claims!

ie. Stock GTST 140rwkw > 181kw flywheel

My current 230rwkw > 285kw flywheel

A random 300rwkw > 365kw flywheel

2011 Ford GS 256rwkw > 314kw flywheel, even seems to work for new automatics ;)

That looks pretty good,cant we all agree to this

But still Id think a 2000hp would quite easily lose 3-400 through driveline which is still close to 20% but once again the style of driveline would make a huge difference ,for instance a regular sedan with tailshafts compared to a car that has the engine/gearbox bolted directly to the diff..

It might show it on the dyno but there is absolutely no way it is actually losing 400hp, do you have any idea how much heat that would create? it would be enough heat to literally melt the gears if that was the case.

I think a large amount of it is how inertial dynos calculate their figures and they don't actually 'lose' the majority power that we see on a dyno, they just read less due to the way it is being measured, there are losses due to the extra weight being spun up, but they are not completely lost this way.

Edited by Rolls
  • 2 weeks later...

A combination of set figure (offset) and percentage (factor).

For a manual I estimate: flywheel(kw) = 20kw + (rwkw x 1.15)

Derived from stock figures. It's estimating it takes ~20kw to spin a gearbox at high rpm, plus you lose a percentage (15%) of gains as friction.

Seems to work well for a lot of cars, and is a hell of a lot better than straight up 25% loss claims!

ie. Stock GTST 140rwkw > 181kw flywheel

My current 230rwkw > 285kw flywheel

A random 300rwkw > 365kw flywheel

2011 Ford GS 256rwkw > 314kw flywheel, even seems to work for new automatics ;)

That is basically the figures I have been using as well. I've always used 15% for manual, 20% for auto, then some % for age. ie, because the skyline is now 15 years old, you loose more power (compression loss, tune loss, just small bits here and there). Rebuilt/modded changes it though and brings it more closely down to the 15%, as does purely having more power (ie so the 20kw base means nothing).

I can't remember what the figures were on a rotary that was engine dyno built and then drivetrain (ie rear wheel) dyno'd, but certainly it couldn't have been even 15% otherwise the gearbox would have fried.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • They're all horrible. X-Trails have had a nasty sounding 4cyl since forever, no matter what engine family it came from. The CVTs only made that worse. Then the whole Renault thing only made every Nissan that was contaminated by them even worse again. The only fun I've had in a X-Trail was having it blown sideways across a frozen Minnesota highway at 90 mph trying to make it to the airport to get out of the frozen hellhole of Hoth. Nearly died. Was great fun.
    • Alrighty, I'll have to grab a couple pics and type out something soon in another post. I haven't driven a modern X no, this would be the first one really. Yeah the rental boxes are always cheap as chips right? So I'd doubt that anyone was handing out GTs to go and abuse. But I s'pose I could be wrong for sure. New cars these days though? Pretty unimpressed with what I see now; 20 years and all that, like you said. It just kind of worked out to have these two cars now. I'm pretty pleased with that, don't need much else. I'm sure you lads are right about the temps and for sure, you wouldn't have much time to drive 'em down there if you all were like me. I do hate sweating all over the seats though😆
    • Let large companies that are making money off selling kits do the preliminary engineering for you. If they all do -10, then that is all you'll ever need. 
    • Hopefully it ends up being something manageable, like a hone, rather than a full bore—it would be a huge relief if it’s not as bad as it looks. Hang in there; these setbacks are annoying, but it sounds like you’re handling it as smartly as possible.
    • At the end of the day, it’s all about understanding the odds and being comfortable with the potential cost, whether it’s horsepower on a build or chips on a roulette table. And I have to say, the Laine example made me laugh—some people really do embrace that carefree, “roll and see” attitude!
×
×
  • Create New...