Jump to content
SAU Community

RB26DETT into GTS-4??? can it be done???????how hard is it????

gts4_fun

By gts4_fun,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

gts4_fun Enthusiast

gts4_fun

Posted
Posted

hey all

i have a 1994 R33 GTS-4 and i want to put a RB26DETT into it

i'v been told that i have a drive train like the GTR?? is this true?? i have the MT gear box and i was told that's the same as the GTR box??? and that the 26dett will drop straight in?? are these ppl full of shit?

i can't seem to find much info in the gts4 so i'v just been going on what ppl tell me

i want to know

1. if my drive train is the same as the GTR or how much differaint is it??

2. to put the 26dett in what will i have to do and change? like diff, gearbox, drive train? wireing? any of that stuff?

3. what parts will i need to get? other than the engine :)

4. if it's just all to hard and i should just get a RB25DET??

if there is any thing i have missed pllz tell me

thanks very much for your help!!

51jay Mentor

51jay

Posted
Posted

Rb25DET is not a GTR. There may be shared components but I don't think the GTS 4 drivetrain and diff is as strong as the GTR. I have heard of quite a few R33 GTS25T's that have had an RB26DETT swapped into them and i believe an R32 GTS4 has had the same treatment, so it is entirely possible and you might have to swap in a GTR diff + GTR ECU.

It will fit in the engine bay

PSIKO Mentor

PSIKO

Posted
Posted

That's the R32 GTS4 in Hi Octane ..

It's true that the R33 GTS4 missed out on all the good stuff, unlike the 32.

In the 32 the g/box is the same as the GTR, but I'm not too sure about the 33. It wouldn't be too hard to bolt in a stagea motor, but then again it wouldnt be too hard to bolt in the GTR motor either. YOu're just going to need all the ancillaries as well.

Nismo_Boy Grand Master

Nismo_Boy

Posted
Posted
the search button is cool! and your right this question does come up alot but it's all to do with the R32's!!!! i have a R33! and i can't find any thing on them ;)

My bad, I asumed you were talking about R32 gts4's ;)

gts4_fun Enthusiast

gts4_fun

Posted
  • Author
Posted

i know i have missed out on the 5 stud wheels, and bigger brakes, and bigger clutch and lots of other good stuff the GTR has

i want to find out if i can kinda get the same specs as a GTR coz i'v been told (by some one who imports 1/2 cuts) that i can drop the engin straigh in, the g/box is the same and every thing will fit.. but i have a feeling that it not that simple and i just want to knwo what i'm getting into

u think getting a wrecked GTR and changing all the bits over would be the way to go? would they all fit? or can i get away with just getting the engine and other bits?

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

your better off selling it and buying a gtr, sorry dude. given the cost and the amount of shit you'd have to change its probably cheaper to just a buy a gtr. there's so many things you have to change, notable the drivetrain in the gtr is attessa, whereas its something else in the gts4. of course feel free to search and what not, but theres a lot to be done, even if you can just straight swap the engine, which you wont be able to do most likely.

brakes

ecu

clutch

diff

drivetrain

what else?

JH32 Grand Master

JH32

Posted
Posted

Jimbo2000: yeah you can put the RB25 from the Stagea into the GTS4.

Paul: the attessa is the same in the GTR and the GTS4. THe engine will indeed be a straight swap, though as you put in your post the brakes, ecu will need to be changed. The clutch well yes you'll need a HD item. The diff is a different ratio and will help you get out of the hole quicker than a GTR. You'll be slower in the top end though. Drive train is essentially the same.

Not sure if the 33 gearbox is the same as the 33 GTR box. I know the 32GTR and the 32GTS4 share the same box.

But if you're not going for looks, only putting the motor and associated parts in, it won't be cheaper to buy a GTR.

GT-Rmgedon Collaborator

GT-Rmgedon

Posted
Posted

I'm pretty sure the gearbox in a R33gts4 is not the same as the GTR model due to the Gts4's n/a specifications. Honestly, i reckon it'll cost too much since you have to consider so many other mechanical alterations as aforementioned. HPI did a comparison on the R32Gts4t & the R33Gts4 in an issue not too far back - The one with the red s15 on the cover as I recall (Issue 36) . Anyway the short of it was since the R32 was already turbo and shared similar specs with the GTR, i.e. gearbox, etc - The swapover for an RB26 would be easier & more cost effective. This is a common question asked by MkIV non turbo Supra owners as what they'd need to do to make their n/a ride into a twin-turbo beast and is it more cost effective - The answer more often than not is DONT bother, as it is economically crazy. I've got a 32 GTST with an RB25DET swaped in (engine work done here in Oz) and this has caused enough headaches with tuning & parts as it is. This is not including the additional costs such as acquiring a RWC for the car with an engineer going over it with a fine tooth comb which isn't that cheap. You might start to think going the GTR route wasn't such a bad idea afterall - Then again you've got to consider what you want the car for and do you really need that much power? Why don't you just do a trade for an R32gts4t or sumpthin? I saw not too long ago in the Trading Post for sale an R32Gts4 with an RB26 swap - Going for something like 20g's....maybe something to consider. By all means it should be possible to drop in an RB26 into a 33Gts4.... just takes money and some weighing up decisions. Anyway hope this helps! Goodluck!

JH32 Grand Master

JH32

Posted
Posted
i got ppl saying it can be done and ppl telling me it can't and it will cost to much

i don't want to be rude but how do u know all this JiMiH?  

how do u other guys lear about the cars and what fits and doesn't???

Not being rude at all mate ... I myself have a 32 gts4 and am undertaking the GTR conversion :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • sunsetR33
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • wizlb
      Who has a Infiniti Q60, Q50 (V37)?

      By wizlb · Posted

      I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Kinkstaah
      Starting again

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
×
×
  • Create New...