Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Could be the soot, but it may also be water in the resonator.

Unless he does really short trips continually I would have thought it would get too hot for water to condense in the resonator?

With just the hiflow cat (instead of the one in the dump and one in front pipe) should be finding it gets hotter further back in the exhaust system now.

Don't have a resonator in atm and is just 3" straight throught to original muffler and it is getting quieter so think the soot build up is most likely settling it down.

Unless he does really short trips continually I would have thought it would get too hot for water to condense in the resonator?

With just the hiflow cat (instead of the one in the dump and one in front pipe) should be finding it gets hotter further back in the exhaust system now.

Don't have a resonator in atm and is just 3" straight throught to original muffler and it is getting quieter so think the soot build up is most likely settling it down.

It is more due to the design of the Legalis (and the original Nismo for that matter).

You can see in the pic below that there is a resonator off to the right of the main pipe, this is the one I am referring to.

For some reason, it is quite normal for this to have some water in it after a bit of use (have even seen some guys state it is the reason they have put them up for sale on Yahoo - bit dramatic if you ask me)

FujitsuboLegalisR.jpg

It is more due to the design of the Legalis (and the original Nismo for that matter).

You can see in the pic below that there is a resonator off to the right of the main pipe, this is the one I am referring to.

For some reason, it is quite normal for this to have some water in it after a bit of use (have even seen some guys state it is the reason they have put them up for sale on Yahoo - bit dramatic if you ask me)

FujitsuboLegalisR.jpg

Have seen that weird little growth off the side before and have wondered how much it might help quieten the system.

Guess it would take a bit longer to heat this part up as the hot gas doesn't flow straight through it so would stay cool enough for water vapour to condense a bit longer than the rest.

Maybe they should put a drain plug in it!

Have seen that weird little growth off the side before and have wondered how much it might help quieten the system.

Guess it would take a bit longer to heat this part up as the hot gas doesn't flow straight through it so would stay cool enough for water vapour to condense a bit longer than the rest.

Maybe they should put a drain plug in it!

apparently i read in another thread that it sends a pulse noise/signal, when it rebounds off the end, back to the exhaust cancelling out most of the sound(correct me if im wrong - iamhe im sure you will anyway) which could be possible. kinds of like in/out of phase or cross phase in audio i guess.

It helps to quieten it quite a bit (although I have not cut it off my Nismo to check - nor will I).

Here are a couple of clips I put up using a digi camera. As you can see/hear, neither are particularly loud.

Both have a very, very similar design although the pipe to the resonator is angled slightly differently and the rear muffler is completely different.

Keep in mind the dump on this thing is massive, around 4 inches wide oval under the passengers feet. It will definitely sound different and slightly louder.

The drone at 2000 revs is a pain, very hard to get rid of. I cruise on 2500 now and don't hear it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...