Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

My V36's boot/bonnet warning light on the dash is permanently on.

I can't tell from the little picture if its the boot or bonnet it's referring to.

I've had a quick look to check and manually repress all possible sensor things but I couldn't really find many.

Any ideas?

I have disconnected the battery and reconnected (i.e. performed a reset).

Cheers,

David.

disconecting teh battery wont do a proper reset unless u leave it for over 24 hours i have noticed this with mine

have a look at this thread and se if it works for you how to reset the ECU : http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/339248-reset-ecu/

if the issue is still there then go see a nissan dealer or somone that has the diagnostic tools to check the codes

are you sure its not the airbag display for the bonnet?

off to nissan you go I'm afraid. that is the only real way you are going to get an answer on it.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

you have airbag issues...

that is the pedestrian protection system having a whinge. in the even you nain someone with the car it pops the rear of the bonnet up. those two devices are causing your light. a trip to nissan will sort it unless you can find a tool that will read the car.

Had another look the other day again with the scan tool hooked and it actually had a code up for an open circuit bag unit in the driveres seat. Must have had a girl look last time. So need to pull drivers seat out and have a squiz.

thing being you will find that the 'explosive' device has died. only way I have found to replace it is by having a 2nd hand seat handy and swapping bits out. new seat bases are stupid in price but the only correct way to fix them from new parts.

thing being you will find that the 'explosive' device has died. only way I have found to replace it is by having a 2nd hand seat handy and swapping bits out. new seat bases are stupid in price but the only correct way to fix them from new parts.

Look forward to the halfcut then:-)

The pedestrian safety system warning system has a sensor behind the front bumper. Have you removed the bumper to re-fit the HID lamps by any chance.

Mine did the same right after compliance. Nissan can reset it quite easily.

CHEERS

The pedestrian safety system warning system has a sensor behind the front bumper. Have you removed the bumper to re-fit the HID lamps by any chance.

Mine did the same right after compliance. Nissan can reset it quite easily.

CHEERS

Yes - I only just thought this the other day. I have had the original lights put back in post compliance, and it was about that time that the problem occurred. I passed on info from my compliance shop that the easiest way was to remove and go in via the front wheel, but maybe they took the bar off or fiddled around with it there.

Thanks - will go down to Nissan and have it sorted. Would they do this free of charge?

Edited by Haxorz

Yes - I only just thought this the other day. I have had the original lights put back in post compliance, and it was about that time that the problem occurred. I passed on info from my compliance shop that the easiest way was to remove and go in via the front wheel, but maybe they took the bar off or fiddled around with it there.

Thanks - will go down to Nissan and have it sorted. Would they do this free of charge?

Dont know why they would remove the bumper to put the HID's back in, I did mine and it's only a matter of taking the wheel off and the plastic splash shield to get to the back of the light assembly.

Unless you know someone at the dealer, it will probarly cost you a scan tool connection fee that could be anything from $55.00 and up.

Edited by Wogboy

Dont know why they would remove the bumper to put the HID's back in, I did mine and it's only a matter of taking the wheel off and the plastic splash shield to get to the back of the light assembly.

Unless you know someone at the dealer, it will probarly cost you a scan tool connection fee that could be anything from $55.00 and up.

The garage mine came from actually put the HID lights back in mine post compliance without me even asking. I guess the wanted the conversion kit for the next car!

They defo took of the bumper bar and upset the sensor because i couldn't pick up the car for another day while Nissan reset it. So in my case it was free.

They shouldn't charge more than 1 hour though I guess if you take it to a Nissan dealer that knows what he is doing.

Cheers

Hmmm... so should I be going back to workshop that inserted my lights and ask them to pay the $55?

Would non-Nissan work shops have the scan tools for a V36? I know a performance shop had one for my R34 when it had a coil pack error.

I have my own scan tool (paid $7000 so it's the real deal) and it reads my V36 no problem. So someone would have one no doubt.

  • 1 year later...

Hmmm... so should I be going back to workshop that inserted my lights and ask them to pay the $55?

Would non-Nissan work shops have the scan tools for a V36? I know a performance shop had one for my R34 when it had a coil pack error.

Just to save anyone further trips to Nissan Dealerships in the future, you can reset the hood warning light with the following instructions. This is confirmed to work for V36 and 370z.

Popup%20Hood%20Reset.png

Edited by rockafella813
  • 5 months later...

Sorry to dredge up an old thread here but now that I've arrived back home from a 5 month stint overseas, I did try this before I flew out on my 2009 model V36 and it did not clear the error.

However, after having the battery disconnected for that 5 months, the first startup (after a fresh oil change and a squirt of oil down each spark plug hole) resulted in a Check Engine Light situation too.

So, I took advantage of the Nissan Consult 3+ tool that I bought from China along with v15.12 of the Consult 3+ software and found a whole bunch of CAN error codes (U1000) across almost every system in the vehicle along with a bunch of other DTCs related to the VVEL, BCM and a couple other things. No doubt the vehicle didn't like being unplugged for so long I guess.

Consequently, I erased the DTCs related to everything but the Pop-Up Hood. Then I retried the procedure noted above but unfortunately, still no clearance. The only way to wipe that bastard out was with the scan tool.

For those who are keen on buying their own scan tool, at a fraction of the cost of the genuine Nissan deal (especially because Nissan sell their kits only with a Panasonic Toughbook laptop), I got it from this mob:

http://hdautotool.en...for_nissan.html

Best $1300 I spent for being my own mechanic, as I always prefer to be.

Edited by The Max

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...