Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im looking at installing a boost controller (turbotech) in my R33 GTST S1 soon as i am bored with the speed and the cars ready to go quicker. its my daily drive though so im only looking for around 10 PSI.

heres the following mods already on the car: FMIC, apexi pod, Splitfire coil packs, dump pipe, 3" exhaust (with a cat) GFB BOV, standard turbo, apexi boost gauge, hks turbo timer.

my question is this... will i be able to boost the turbo to 10 PSI or maybe just over whilst still using the standard ECU? or will this extra boost pressure send the sensors crazy?

id like to get away with just using the standard ECU if possible as dont want to spend big money. if not what are my options?? mate reckons ill be able to run it on standard ECU no problems...

any feedback appreciated cheers.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/348989-1st-time-booster-question/
Share on other sites

33's are funny

Mine wouldnt take 10psi, would die at about 5000rpm or so (fuel cut) and was running rich as at 8psi (about 10:1) at this boost with similar mods to you i only made 140rwkw

but in saying that ive seen R33's that handle more boost without to much of an issue

worth a try i guess but I'd def look into getting an aftermarket ECU. There by far one of the best mods you can do. Power deliever is much smoother and nicer.

I have a Power FC and there a great ECU for there age, VIPEC seems to be the way to go now but you could go piggyback in the form of a nistune or greddy emanage or something along those lines if money is an issue

hay bloke 10psi is not a problem and also check ebay for the chips that replace your old ecu chip there like 50 buck no rev limiter or fuel cut it will suit what you want to do. no need for power fc yet. chips come pre tuned, as a matter of fact search this web site there would be heaps of others using these chips and the thred can steer you in the right direction for which one to go with.:thumbsup:

please please please DO NOT buy a pre-tuned chip. chips that are tuned for other cars, or remaps are no good and not a good idea. they can be unsafe and be tuned for unknown specs. my recommendation is when you add more boost, is to tune the car at the same time. get nistune and increase the boost to 12psi and your car will be like brand new. there is a lot of power and response locked away in the stock ecu. so if you fit nistune and boost up your car will be like brand new. a powerfc is ideal, but are a bit more costly than nistune.

paul what are your opinions on a custom tuned chip? ie dyno + road tune to figure out what the maps need to be for your particular car and then burn that data to ROM.

(main downside i can see is that subsequent retunes are expensive).

it depends on how they do it, old style remaps used to be like that, burn once and you have to pay full price to reburn it. i think these days its a lot cheaper and things like nistune dont require you to "burn" the tune if that makes sense. the bummer when selling a remap is they are usually worth $0 to anyone else. if you sell a vipec or a powerfc or a motec etc you usually get your money back, nistune you would as well. just do your checking with a remap, im always a bit wary of them.

you can get the same power/features etc from them, so don't use that as a deciding factor

thanks for the feedback guys. so how much would a nistune ECU cost and where do i get one from? and how much am i looking at to get everything tuned on a dyno? cant i just get a cheaper piggyback like an Apexi safc to sort out any potential problems when running 10 PSI and dyno tune it then?? hm well maybe ill boost it with the standard ECU for now and see if it starts playing up....if it does ill have to fork out for one of these 2 maybe.

Im remapping R33 ecu also power fc and nistune R32,Z32 ecu tuning.

remap is

Chip and install socket Cost $100 real time tune labor $450 total$550

Second hand Power fc cost $1200 tune labor$450 total $1650

Nistune cost around $1000 include ecu and labor.

So remmap is cheapest option but all ecu almost same performance.

Yes,remap is need $100 chip for re tune.(chip can not rewrite)

But how many times tune a year.

If you will tune once a year , only $100 a year.

Nistune is good option.

I saw second hand nistune ecu sold $300.

So I think you can sale $300 but not $500.

my customer car mods is second hand hiflow turbo ($750),

second hand Z32 AFM ($150) and my remap ecu ($650 real time tune).

Total only $1550.

He got 230kw.

This is cheaper than second hand power fc and tune.

before you grab a boost 't ($80) and nistune ($800) or pfc ($1800), which is the next step (160-220rwkw).

do this little mod http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/42895-howto-rb25det-high-boost-mode-with-standard-solenoid/

as the guys have said, you maybe able to run 10psi with the standard tune. but its hit and miss and will run rich and blow crazy black smoke (kinda like a large truck, you may like this...back of the car gets very dirty though...).

give this thread a read as well http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/66556-forced-induction-quick-ref-guide/

put it on 10psi and see what happens, it is highly likely it'll get fuel cut, run too rich and misfire and not make much more power, it might be ok though.

Ultimately you want a z32 computer with a nistune or an r32 computer with nistune and get an ebc like eboost street to control the VCT as the r32 computer can't do that, all of these will be ~$1k including a tune installed give or take a bit. Other option is power fc etc which will not pass an inspection if you get defected, up to you.

Personally I'd do it once and do it properly and get the nistune, no inspector will be the wiser as it'll have a nissan badge on it.

nistune website says i can pick up a type 2 board for $420. and get one of their regional distributors in WA to dyno tune it. but what does all this other crap on the website mean.....

*1 ECR33 RB25DET Skyline can use HCR32DET ECU (no VCT)

or

Z32 VG30DETT ECU (internal modifications required)

*2 BNCR33 Skyline requires BNR32 RB26DETT ECU and O2 sensors???

or check it out http://www.nistune.com/equipment-products-type2.php

The R33 computer cannot have a nistune module put in it, hence you need a Z32 computer (300zx) and then have it wired in and fitted, or you need an R32 rb20det ecu, however the r32 computer cannot control your VCT (variable cam timing) which you really do not want to go without, however you can use an eboost street to control the VCT as you said you needed an EBC anyway.

Email nistune and ask who they recommend in your area to fit and tune a nistune module into an ecu, they will then be able to tell you if they prefer the Z32 ecu or the r32 computer, personally I would just get which ever one is cheaper and get the eboost street either way.

Should be able to get an ECU for $100-200, then get the nistune fitted for $300 and wired in I would say would be around $200 depending on what sensors need to be replaced to get it running as they don't just simply plug into the loom. Usually need a series 1 throttle position sensor, if you have a series 2 R33 then you might need ignitor modules etc as well.

Either way find out who can do the work for you and call them to ask what they recommend, they might have a second hand power fc that is cheaper than going down the nistune route, however it will never pass an inspection and does not look stock, advantage is it is plug and play.

Edited by Rolls

they mean you can use either a r32 rb20 ecu or a z32 vg30 ecu with a few mods (which afaik they now do before selling). the 32 ecu doesnt control vct, so you need an external controller. z32 does control vct so no extras needed.

z32 nistune is the best option for a mild r33 rb25 imo

but first, buy the turbotech mbc and wind it up to 10psi, some cars will run shit, some will be fine. so try it and see, you wont hurt anything at 10psi. just be sure to keep it under 12/13psi at higher revs, you can get away with a little more in the midrange.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Seat of the pants assessment of the new intake: The car is way less "doughy" when hitting the loud pedal, especially off idle when stopped or in traffic, I did use a cheapo lazer thermal thingo to measure the temp around where the pod filter got its air, it was between 55 - 60°C, in saying this the car was shut off and not moving, so the OEM intake pipe was not supplying any fresh air to where the pod was when the car was at least moving A weird bonus was induction noise on the throttle in the cabin increased a bit,  I was worried that I was actually going to lose some of that induction noise I love so much, outside though, when I got the daughter to do a WOT drive by pass for me, the induction noise has increased alot when on the throttle, not quite ITB doort, but well up there I'm extremely happy with the results and have been exploring the country roads in the region  As for house mods: 1.New front fence is up and is awesome, it really upgraded how the joint looks from the street, and the added security is nice 2. Electricians have replace some interior lights, and with more lighting in the garage, a few new motion detecting lights out the front above the garage, front room, and at the front door, which I have already found heaps helpful coming and going, also now has fancy pants CCTV all round the house The only hold point for power though is the solar and batteries due to supply issues, although this will happen over the next few weeks 3. I have done a heap of landscaping out the front and I'm almost ready to do a new small retaining wall with some nice blocks to replace the brick and cemented in rocks around the raised garden beds cemented in river stone "was the fashion at the time" the house was built. I currently have a pallet of retaining wall blocks and 2 bulka bags of 20mm blue metal to replace the wood chip that is in the raised garden beds around the house 4. I now have 3 big raised garden beds for out the back to grow some vegetables, about 70cm high, 200cm long and 100cm wide 5. My 2 compost bins are already pretty full with brown, green and kitchen waste from the landscaping I'vedone so far, but they will probably take a few months to break down, so anything else that gets chopped, trimmed, and kitchen waste will just start filling the base of the raised garden beds to about 30cm before I start throwing 40cm of good compost, and stuff, for the vegetables to grow in, I'll need a few ton of compost and soil, but the local supplier can sent me bulka bags of the stuff Basically the logs, wood chips and a few strategically placed rocks for drainage, will give the beds some good organic materials down low to break down over time, and they will hold moisture during the warmer months to save the water in my big arse water tank if we don't get alot of rain So, all in all, the car and house mods are going well, and I'm really enjoying being retired, I sleep in too 0700 and slowly plod around inside until I feel like actually doing anything, and only work in the yard for as long as want, which has actually been alot over the last few weeks,  although when you look at it, it seems that not a huge amount of work has been done,  until I look at the before I started the work pics Happy days and good times indeed 
    • hahaha yeah. Plan is to get side skirts and probably just rear pods. But going to do them one-by-one. I've got a set that I really like from RHDJapen, but that one isn't shipped to AU. So need to find someone who can get it for me
    • Here's an idea, answer the questions I asked you as they are trying to work out WHY the LSD will be binding up in a straight line.
    • You haven't driven many modern cars then have you? Most of them have sfa steering feel with their stupid electric bullshit steering systems.
×
×
  • Create New...