Jump to content
SAU Community

Switching Bulbs In A Hella Spotlight For Better Results

samuri

By samuri,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

samuri Rising Star

samuri

Posted
Posted (edited)

This light has been sitting idle for at least 13 years in my shed.

Can I safely replace the bulb with an xenon and would this significantly produce a much better light for night driving at night?

From memory the existing bulb did a reasonable job, but then again I was driving a vw, with atrocious lights.

Is there a better option?

I nearly hit a bullock a while back. A black animal on country bitumen road on a dark night was a scary experience, thus the reason fro my post.

Hella Rallye 2000 Spread Beam Driving Lamp

12V (globe included)

Wattage

100W

Mounting

Globes to suit

12V H1

Edited by samuri
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

This light has been sitting idle for at least 13 years in my shed.

Can I safely replace the bulb with an xenon and would this significantly produce a much better light for night driving at night?

As distinct from night driving in the day? Or day driving at night?

From memory the existing bulb did a reasonable job, but then again I was driving a vw, with atrocious lights.

Is there a better option?

I nearly hit a bullock a while back. A black animal on country bitumen road on a dark night was a scary experience, thus the reason fro my post.

Hella Rallye 2000 Spread Beam Driving Lamp

12V (globe included)

Wattage

100W

Mounting

Globes to suit

12V H1

A 100W halogen throws a pretty fair amount of light. So I wouldn't expect a Xenon (even if there was one to fit) to do much better. It's a spread beam - not much chance of improving the "throw" of the beam. You really need a "spot" or "pencil" pattern to get good throw.
saliya Rising Star

saliya

Posted
Posted

The rallye 2ks are a seriously-bright light. I think you can change from spread to pencil by replacing the front glass.

You really want something that fits fully inside the body (which _might_ be big enough)

I would contact a seller that sells kits for rallye 4000 and ask (they're similarly-sized).

If the globes are physically-different sizes or the arc's not struck at the same spot as the filament

the light output will be affected as it may no longer be in the mirror's focal point.

Cheers,

SW

Deano 1 Mentor

Deano 1

Posted
Posted

ive got brand new Rally 4000s on my trol. they both got 100W globes in em, they both are pencil, and they both will blow your eyes out if you are driving around with you high beams on, and they happen to get in my eyes. :nyaanyaa:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...