Jump to content
SAU Community

Which Oil Filter Adapter

tm_r33

By tm_r33,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
Posted

hey all.

just went to put my rb25det oil filter adaptor onto my new rb30det engine and notice it doesnt look right.

the rb30 block has a threaded male outlet but the female hole in the rb25 adapter is not threaded and is slightly larger in diameter.

doesnt look to me like it will seal properly.

see pics below.

Do i need to source an rb30 adapter? im now guessing the the 25 and 30 adapters are different?

post-43633-0-16211300-1294113254_thumb.jpg

post-43633-0-67519400-1294113295_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349149-which-oil-filter-adapter/
Share on other sites
JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted (edited)

yep, they both unscrew. if your having trouble getting the 25 one out i used the tool for changing discs on a makita angle grinder, perfect fit. as for the 30 one, i used nut munchers because i wasnt gonna use it, but if you want to keep it find 2 nuts in the right thread and lock them together.

also make sure you use a new gasket and everything seats properly, i cracked my filter housing from it not sitting right and tightening it up just a little. had to find another one, was a PITA

Edited by JonnoHR31
JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

i kept the factory water cooler setup. havent taken any temp readings but water temps always nice and cool so i cant see it making the oil hotter.

i agree its not ideal but for a basic 30det it does the job

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

oh so the 30 doesnt have an adapter. the filter screws straight to the block.

eventually i will run a proper oil cooler it is a track car but for run-in and tuning i just need to get it going.

when i buy an oil cooler kit will i be needing the threaded male peice in the block or the unthreaded male piece?

i dont want to be swapping these once engine is in the car so if i need threaded later i will just put oil filter staright on block for now?

But if i need the unthreaded later i will do that now and run 25 oil to water cooler untill i buy oil cooler?

Thanks guys

(or will wether i buy a 25det or 30e oil cooler kit effect what peice in need in the block lol?)

erderr Contributor

erderr

Posted
Posted

You need to attach the oil filter block to the engine block, so you can screw on the oil filter or adapter for the oil cooling system. I'm pretty sure you cannot connect it straight up to the engine block as that's how I was going to get around replacing my oil filter block.

Also, FYI - you will need a gasket for the oil filter block to against the engine block. Justjap sell and stock them http://www.justjap.com/store/product.php?productid=18637&cat=318&page=1 so you don't have to buy one off nissan directly.

Here's a picture of an oil filter relocation kit just so you can see what I mean (you need the thread to hold the connector on there, it wont attach directly to the engine block): http://www.full-race.com/catalog/images/s2000%20oil%20filter%20relocation%20kit1.jpg

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks for the input erderr

yer ive got a gasket. it came with one of the gasket kits when my 25/30 was built.

so did rb30 have a different oil filter block or not run one at all?

i dont want to use the 25det oil filter block because it has the huge hole cast into one side of it for the factory water cooler which i do not want to use.

so i still need a 30e oil filter block then is what your getting at? one that wont have provision for the water cooler just the filter?

(and obviously i chuck the sandwhich plate for the oil cooler kit where the filter would usualy sit on the 30e oil filter block?)

*tells girl friend to take me to wreckers to look at a vl commy oil filter block*

lol

thanks james

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

this must mean that oil cooler kit for 25 and 30 will be different?

one will take a thread (30e kit) and one will slide on and use the bolt holes round the outer (25det) ?

i cant see the oil cooler sandwhich plate in the 25 kit going onto the already existing factory warmer/cooler. surely it stil goes onto the block?

  • 1 month later...
HR31-PASSAGE Veteran

HR31-PASSAGE

Posted
Posted

how did you go with this mate?

i'm going the same thing my self atm & want to get rid of the water cooler but not 100% sure what hose/lines to remove/block, can anyone give me some directions on this please. didn't hapen to get some pics before you put the engine in did you, so i can see how you have it set up?

cheers

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey mate. I ditched the 25 water cooler setup in the the end. I currently have an oil filter straight on the block. As this is an engine built from scratch I will try to do a fare extensive run in so no cooler will be needed until I get it tuned again and track it.

As soon as its run in and I put the filter relocator and cooler on I will take piccs. Being a track car I dont run a heater or anything so there isnt many coolant lines left lol.

tm_r33 Experienced

tm_r33

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Hey mate. I ditched the 25 water cooler setup in the the end. I currently have an oil filter straight on the block. As this is an engine built from scratch I will try to do a fare extensive run in so no cooler will be needed until I get it tuned again and track it.

As soon as its run in and I put the filter relocator and cooler on I will take piccs. Being a track car I dont run a heater or anything so there isnt many coolant lines left lol.

HR31-PASSAGE Veteran

HR31-PASSAGE

Posted
Posted

Hey mate. I ditched the 25 water cooler setup in the the end. I currently have an oil filter straight on the block. As this is an engine built from scratch I will try to do a fare extensive run in so no cooler will be needed until I get it tuned again and track it.

As soon as its run in and I put the filter relocator and cooler on I will take piccs. Being a track car I dont run a heater or anything so there isnt many coolant lines left lol.

oh ok i'm just not exactly sure what lines to remove.

do i just take all the lines from that rear water feed?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      CAS maybe?
    • silviaz
      Recomended Coolant For Gt T R34

      By silviaz · Posted

      What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • donut_kng
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By donut_kng · Posted

      Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • Rezz
      R34 4 door side skirt identification

      By Rezz · Posted

      No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...