Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

my new r32gtr has a thin film of black soot which does come off with polish but it is very stubborn...is there a chemical i can get to remove this stuff?

here is a pic to give u an idea of the buildup, mainly around the top of the firewall (above the engine)

regards

marko

post-8728-0-72074300-1294117891_thumb.jpg

Edited by Marko R1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349155-best-way-to-clean-an-engine-bay/
Share on other sites

Try spraying with trigger bottle - truck wash detergent 50/50 with water , scrub with wheel/rim brush let soak for 1 hour then gentle wash of areas affected only ,

whatever you do try not to wet your intake filters or any electrics .thumbsup.gif

what works best for me is a can of crc heavy duty parts and throttle body cleaner. The dirt literally just glides straight off!

^ ^ ^ Yes, preceded by Kenco Truck degreaser &/or followed by Upper Engine Cleaner by Subaru...

But...

But...

Your car is red, and some reds can change colour slightly by using harsh solvents.

So I'd tend to do a test-wipe first eh?

ok - i know that throttle body cleaner is incredibly strong when it took all the grime off my throttle bodies when i had them out, makes your fingers feel tingly as well which cant be good lol

i'll try this & that kenco degreaser

I would be very interested to know how u end up Marko.

I have the same problem with my gtr, I attempted using a small spot of WD40 then rincing with soapy water and rubbing over with a polish (washed the wd40 off quite quickly).

Appeared to work quite well, however i can see this being quite time consuming. Besides its quite difficult to get a cloth to some of the panels that are quite dirty in mine.

Also dont like the idea of spraying WD40 all over my paintwork.

Kenco Degreaser is fantastic, I used it for my engine bay a few months ago. Spray on leave for 15 mins and give it a bit of a scrub with a wheel brush. Pretty much everything came off. More stubborn spots got more degreaser and a longer soak time. :thumbsup:

Hey mate,

I just used a degreaser and a high pressure spray (u can go to the pay and spray at a petrol station if u dont have a high pressure unit)

Simple Green is highly recommended by the guys at final inspection, but I've never tried it before, I just used up some cheaper stuff myself really

Jif can scrape away grime > but it leaves scratches. If you rub it on a piece of glass mirror you'll see it straight away due to its abrasives.

Kenco Truck Degreaser won't scratch.

Carbie cleaner or Upper engine cleaner doesn't have abrasives either, but it strips away any 'Clear'.

I have no doubt that Jif will help restore any discoloured white, red or any other colour engine bay.

After all, even Glym Paint Restorer will have 'cutting compound' in it.

Any abrasive cutting compound on paint needs to be followed up by a very fine polish, and that can be followed up by wax, and then by a sealer.

Repeated use of cutting compound on paint and...

In your case, it was wise to apply polish straight after, Brad.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...