Jump to content
SAU Community

Nissan Blank Keys

Munkyb0y
 Share

Recommended Posts

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

No i cant get any like that.

I dont think they had buttons on the key before the R34 and S15. So how would you use it anyway? Install your own electronics into the key? It wouldnt fit or line up.

It just doenst make sense mohsen. :/

Anyway, plenty more keys here. So let me know if you want one.

.

Edited by Munkyb0y
  • Replies 119
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

HotPlates Proficient

HotPlates

Posted
Posted

The spacing of the 2 long grooves running down the length on my original key are 'closer together' compared to the 'NATS' blank you are showing. Does your original key also have narrower grooves compared to the 'NATS' key?

Munkyb0y Grand Master

Munkyb0y

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Mine looks pretty similar to the photos. Maybe your original key is just worn, so the space between the grooves has narrowed down over time?

If it's for an R33, or any of the other cars i've listed, it will fit 100%. That's a money back guarantee :)

eiresgaus Proficient

eiresgaus

Posted
Posted

The spacing of the 2 long grooves running down the length on my original key are 'closer together' compared to the 'NATS' blank you are showing. Does your original key also have narrower grooves compared to the 'NATS' key?

Mine looks pretty similar to the photos. Maybe your original key is just worn, so the space between the grooves has narrowed down over time?

If it's for an R33, or any of the other cars i've listed, it will fit 100%. That's a money back guarantee :)

I know what he's talking about, the middle section of the key (the part you don't cut into) is thinner on some keys. I even had a Mr Minit say he wouldn't cut the NATS key for me because its totally different (to my original key) and it wouldn't work. So brought it to someone else, got it cut and what do you know, it works (doors, ignition everything). I have 2 original keys and 1 has the thicker middle line the other one is thinner. The NATS key is also thicker down the middle. Doesn't seem to make a difference.

thumbsup.gif

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      spot the stagea

      By Duncan · Posted

      roof rail delete used to be a thing, they were made locally for a while too
    • AnimalGarage
      spot the stagea

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • AnimalGarage
      Can you mount the ATTESA pump in other locations?

      By AnimalGarage · Posted

      According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • joshuaho96
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
×
×
  • Create New...