Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just paid 680 for the back and 770 for the front shocks on my r33. First are there standard shocks any good?. Second did I get ripped off? Third what's a good set for next time without going into coilovers? I work away so havn't driven it yet so can't tell u what I think they are like.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/349937-pedders-shocks-are-they-any-good/
Share on other sites

I just paid 680 for the back and 770 for the front shocks on my r33. First are there standard shocks any good?. Second did I get ripped off? Third what's a good set for next time without going into coilovers? I work away so havn't driven it yet so can't tell u what I think they are like.

Holy crap you can buy Konis for less than that.. or a set of adjustable coilovers start around 1200..IM guessing you paid that fitted though..

What sort did you get sportsrider..

Pedders make good suspansion, Id say there are better for that money but I guess thats the price you pay when you get them fittted..

Edited by Arthur T3

Coilovers are shit. Ive got teins, I really want to get rid of them. Gotta love Sydney roads.

1232903709samuel20l20ja.gif

You said what now?!?!

10kg/8kg superstreets are always going to be hard.

OP, are they just replacements? Pedders do a re-brand BC body with their own spring, they are ok. If not just get some BC's later on, with softer springs if you want 6/5's or something.

It's not lowered but now the new shocks in the mrs says that when she goes full lock on the steering there is a loud clunk turning both ways. Sometimes I really hate working away but the fact she has no clue. Any ideas what the noise could be? Running 245/45 on the front and never had a problem with rubbing or anything like it. Could the steering be affected by shocks or anything done wrong putting new ones in or am I just a dumb as for letting the mrs sort it out?

1232903709samuel20l20ja.gif

You said what now?!?!

10kg/8kg superstreets are always going to be hard.

OP, are they just replacements? Pedders do a re-brand BC body with their own spring, they are ok. If not just get some BC's later on, with softer springs if you want 6/5's or something.

They are really nice on flat bendy roads but living in Parramatta, the roads here are disgusting and they will make my passenger nauseous.

If someone can tell me how to identify my teins ill tell you which one they are. From the tops, theyre standard(dont have the top camber/dampening adjustment). The suspension tower thing is silver, has a black spring and two adjustable turny things. I will trade these for any decent, road suspension for an r33 gtst.

Edited by SargeRX8

from my experience (which was a few yrs ago now) i would never buy another set of pedders crapriders....too pricey. didnt last and felt crap. Told them they feel shite and they told me there was nothing they can do....lame.

2 places i'll never go again. pedders, and ultratune. over qualifyed Maccas employees

i should mention mine werent on a skyrine

Edited by boiracer

They are really nice on flat bendy roads but living in Parramatta, the roads here are disgusting and they will make my passenger nauseous.

If someone can tell me how to identify my teins ill tell you which one they are. From the tops, theyre standard(dont have the top camber/dampening adjustment). The suspension tower thing is silver, has a black spring and two adjustable turny things. I will trade these for any decent, road suspension for an r33 gtst.

They should have a sticker on them.

tein+ss+eg.JPG

First are there standard shocks any good?.

Depends entirely on what you're using the car for, but ordinarily not really...

Second did I get ripped off?

Ah yep. You couldn't have KYB for half of that, or Bilstein/Koni for pretty close to what you paid (if not less)...

Third what's a good set for next time without going into coilovers?

Aforementioned Koni/Bilstein...

Yeah thought so! Any way it's back in there workshop now anyway.. Havn't driven it myself yet so will let u know what I think when I do. They just looked at it again and they said my tie rod ends gone. Buy the way I'm not bagging Pedders nice guys at the one I went to and helpful. Just thought there price a bit much just for shocks. They said they would run me through how to do the rods myself. Anyone know what are a good brand or will any do.

Edited by aardi

first of all.

tiens are good, not ideal for australian roads though.

second...

you really mustn't be of the intelligent type to say coilovers are shit... no you say? then you would know that tiens run a very hard spring rate then? different coilovers come with different spring rates...

and im referring to the one piece coilover setup, because stock or pedders etc shocks and springs are also known as coilovers because the COIL is OVER the shock

Edited by Clutch

Yeah right mate I never said coil overs where shit that was another guy I just wanted to know that for 1300 bucks installed I was getting my moneys worth of shocks. Anyone know much about the tie end rods I need?

  • 3 weeks later...

Andrew unfortunately you got sucked in to buying cheap quality shocks which I will mention most of the inner hardware comes from Taiwan, Pedders Australian...Not.

I've been in the suspension game for a few years now and where I work we set up many cars for road/track/rally/drift/drag/tarmac rally's you name it. We sell and recommend the following;

1.KYB's, they're good quality replacement shocks made in Japan for Japanese vehicles :) around $1000 for a set.

2. Koni, they're better quality performance sport shock designed for standard or lowering springs with external rebound adjustments, made in Germany, set you back $1200 for a set.(not incl labour & W/A)

3.Bilstein, Once again great quality shock only difference from the Koni's are that they are not externally adjustable & the valving is set better for comfort on harsh roads especially when lowering, again they are made in Germany & would set you back $1800 for a full set.

That being said I would personally go with the Koni's as they are not too expensive and if you were to lower your car they would certainly work well being firm but not overly harsh & of course they are rebuildable once you've clocked 200,000klms with them in the car!

Don't worry mate just remember for next time you need shocks, DONT GO TO PEDDERS!!

Oh and coil/overs are not necessary for a road car, if your tracking it totally different story, you would be far better off with Koni or Bilstein shocks and lowering springs then any cheap coil/over kit trust me.

Cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
    • Ok, disregard my “rate them” comment, sorry for my unrealistic input
×
×
  • Create New...