Max Hp For Oem Internal Rb26?

[N1GTR]

I know guys doing 460awkw through a stock (non rebuilt) rb26. So yeah it's do able but you need to accept that it will let go and then it's going to cost you a new engine

[SiR_RB]

Arnt R.I.P.S in NZ running 10's with stock internal engines? And apparently lasting quiet abit too?

[mico]

And plenty of stock motors have blown up too. We need know the how many and the how of the failures to be able draw useful conclusions.

well my oil pump failed at 397awhp, no idea why. seans car is stock but with a billet pump and crank collar. that gmastr 32 which is tuned at jem makes 400kw now, totally stock with the narrow drive .....

[Count Grantleyish]

Isn't there a engine failure thread here somewhere?

Have a good read and give you a idea.

[Moodles2]

Mostly from what I've gathered reading the engine failure thread over the years, is usually one of the following:

- turbo failure, ceramic exhaust wheel is jettisoned into the catalytic converter and ceramic dust makes it way into the cylinder bores via the exhaust valves. (it may have been mentioned by a builder or tuner that they've seen this happen 25% of the time)

- spun bearing, poor choice of oil or poor maintenance or not overfilling (sump emptied, resulting in oil starvation or due to no upgraded oil sump baffling) or just plain unlucky (or all 4)

- oil pump failure. limiter bashing (hard ignition cut). early short oil drive crank more susceptible to failure than the long oil drive due to smaller oil pump <-> crank surface face. Newish N1 oil pumps are considered junk (it's speculated that manufactoring process different from early N1 pumps)

- poorly assembled "built" engines that go pop easily. pays to have a engine builder who has built hundreds of RBs (red r racing etc), not a shop that is learning as they go on your engine. Personally I would take an unopened factory engine over an RB put together by a random shop.. common thing with "built" engines is bearing clearances completely wrong

- 100,000km service gone wrong. wrong belt tension (belt skips teeth and pistons meet valves), or balancer not torqued to spec and working itself loose (which the oil pump relys on) or even not bothering to do the full service and leaving the factory fitted tensioners etc fitted which then seize.

- Poor tune, especially Jap ECUs, often brought off ebay and put into cars without checking it on the dyno, especially Mine's... completely unsuitable for australian fuel/conditions

[GTR_JOEY]

You can throw piston ring land in there as well, especially number 6

[800KD]

pretty sure i looked at your car 800kd b4 i got mine, good buy. how did u check for the short oil pump drive, remove the seal ? awesome result

No easy way to check crank oil drive..........removed motor, sump, oil pump etc.