Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...
  • Replies 146
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yeh I'm going....pinch.gif

This is a good one for people who like the DECA back track and want a bit more. It's a longer, much much hillier version.

Not that far from Melbourne people, just past Moe.

most likely attend this, with another member.

P.I.A.R.C SPRINTS are on the 12&13th it says cars competing must have a min 3 point harness and 2 separate fastening system on front panle (PINS) im guessing? is this new in 2011?

and will this apply for SAU track days on P.I, Sandown, Winton? if so will have to get on it!! any info would be much appreciated thanks :)

Yep I'll be at PI on the Saturday as well. I saw the regs, same as WTAC. I'm sorted for a harness, so didn't worry me.

I can't seem to find the same in the HSV sandown day regs.

Edit: If the car isnt registered, you need to run a 3pt harness. If it is registered, the existing ADR approved lap sash is fine.

post-59171-0-00350300-1295762323_thumb.jpg

post-59171-0-32172700-1295762328_thumb.jpg

If you are running a factory bonnet set-up then that is enough, no pins or straps needed.

the 2 systems are the std bonnet release and then the lever under the bonnet.

if you running something old like a kingswood or mustang they only had one clip so you then need to add a 2nd.

For a Skyline tho, no mods needed.

R33 in skyline....

rx7 in associate over 3L (AO3)

yes I know it under 3 L, but u need a 1.5 multiplier for rotary and then 1.7 for turbo

so 1.3 *1.5 *1.7 = 3.315 Liters equivalent.

(same as my 2L 200sx is in AO3)

Martin

If you are running a factory bonnet set-up then that is enough, no pins or straps needed.

the 2 systems are the std bonnet release and then the lever under the bonnet.

if you running something old like a kingswood or mustang they only had one clip so you then need to add a 2nd.

For a Skyline tho, no mods needed.

Try argue that with WRX scrutineer dickheads. They'll say it's only one "system" so get the extra cable and clip to be sure.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...