Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The prices that flyn.com.au quote are usually more expensive than what he actually charges.

He sells stuff on ebay and if you search around you can usually find his stuff.

Then email him and you can pretty much get the item you want a the starting price and then pick it up from him.

Good reliable guy :(

I spoke to him yesterday, ive ordered mine, apparently his got new pipes where  you dont have to cut your fan blades as the Hybrid kits do.

SERIOUS!

SWEEET!!

The only other thing they need to fix now is the vacuum line attachment to the first piping section. Theres nothing to attach it there. We had to drill a hole and fabricate our own little thing to put the hose onto it

Did you ask about this?

We've ordered from flyn before, no problems at all.

Fitted the kit ourselfves in a few hours, not hard. Besides the stuffing around fabrication bit

Hi guys,

Here at; theintercoolerguy, we have been developing our own line of intercooler kits for the past 24 months, and after much R & D we are proud to announce that 'ICG' has arrived on the performance parts scene.

The ICG line of intercooler kits are the most technologically advanced intercooler bolt on kits available on the market today!

The basis upon which the kits are designed rest upon "Minimilism". Our kits are designed to bolt straight in with minimal modification.

ICG intercooler kits are fully engineered and consist of CNC mandrel bent alloy. Unlike many of our competitors, ICG kits feature PROFESSIONALLY POLISHED pipes, polished right here in Sydney by ULTIMATE SHINE. The advantages of polishing over the conventional method of 'Chroming' are ten fold:

*Polished pipes do not flake like chromed pipes, which leads to metal flakes being sucked into the intake pipes.

*Chromed pipes, once scratched must be re-chromed. The issue regarding this is as follows: 1. Chroming pipes is very expensive, especially re-chroming as the pipe must first be stripped back to bare metal. 2. There are virtually no companies in Australia that chrome alloy pipes.

*Polished pipes, once scratched, can simply be re-polished by "you" simply by purchasing a tube of polished cream and applying some elbow grease.

*NOTE: All ICG intercooler kits arrive with a FREE tube of polishing cream.

All ICG kits feature a 38mm attachment for a blow off valve (BOV). This will save you literally hundreds when wanting to modify your pipes to accomodate a 'BOV'

Furthermore, ICG kits for the R32/R33/R34 feature a vacuum line attachment. This is something missing from almost all intercooler kits available on the market.

ICG kits also do not require trimming of the fan blade like most of our competitors.

Kits consist of:

*Professionally polished pipes

*Stainless steel t-bolt hose clamps

*Blue 3-ply silicon hoses

*800x300x76 polished bar and plate intercooler (not hybrid)

*Fitting instructions

*Brackets and require fitting components

*FREE GFB single stage boost controller

and for an extra $100 Autometer Sport-comp 30psi 2 5/8 boost guage.

As our website is currently down due to upgrades, we may be contacted on 0413 971 347.

For all Sydney Residents we have just opened up our workshop and our showroom will be open to the public on the 8th of March 2004, with the Melbourne workshop opening in late May 2004 and Gold Coast to follow.

Theintercoolerguy pty ltd

743-745 The Horslet Drive Smithfield, right above promax performance.

ICG R32/R33/R44 Kits, Fitted, drive in and drive out in under 2 hours, only $1550 for SKYLINESAUSTRALIA.COM members. Th

We stock all performance parts..

Hi guys,

i will post some pics to the general public after we have patented all our designs..at the present time we only offer pictures to our customers..

the intercoolers are the same intercoolers that hybrid use in their kits, however, it must be stressed that they are NOT HYBRID INTERCOOLERS, Hybrid do not make them as they claim..they only stamp the top plate with their name..this is a factual statement.

Yeah id like to get hold of him to his got my turbo and i has moved address and had the number i had for him disconnected so any info so i can find him would be helpfull his only had it two months and i need it to get my car going

Hi guys,

i will post some pics to the general public after we have patented all our designs..at the present time we only offer pictures to our customers..

the intercoolers are the same intercoolers that hybrid use in their kits, however, it must be stressed that they are NOT HYBRID INTERCOOLERS, Hybrid do not make them as they claim..they only stamp the top plate with their name..this is a factual statement.

Only provide photos to customers?

We are customers,

What cars did you do extensive testing of your intercooler kits on?

Yeah id like to get hold of him to his got my turbo and i has moved address and had the number i had for him disconnected so any info so i can find him would be helpfull his only had it two months and i need it to get my car going

intergoolerguy above posted you can call 0413 971 347

Legend01,

Hi Peter, how you been?

i just spoke to your son and organised pick up of the turbo from the workshop, its been sitting on the bench finished for quite a while now..

As for pictures...pictures will be posted in the nex few days, in the mean time we are registered dealers of the FORCE R33 kits, these kits retai for $1760 or $1920 fitted, drive in and out in under 3 hours..

Im still a little unconvinced, i mean your charging the same amount as HKS and TRUST ICs from Japan  

I love to support aussie companies, but in the end, it comes down to how well it works not who makes it

If you are refering to the price of the FORCE R33 kits, please note that they are far more comprehensive than the kits offered by Japanese manufacturers. We replace the cast pipe entering the throttle body, the pipe exiting the turbo, and the rubber tube entering the turbo. We have decided to go with this design as we feel it offers the shortest possible pipe length and the best bonnet clearance of any other kit design. Replacing the rubber intake tube also eliminates the problem of the tube collapsing, often experienced at higher power levels. (not forgetting the fact that it flows better and of course looks better!)

Also, we build the intercoolers ourselves using cores built to our specifications. They feature true offset internal fins for maximum cooling efficiency. This is the same style of inner fin as used by the majority of Japanese manufacturers, except our cores are 73mm thick, as opposed to 60-65 for the Japanese equivalent.

Also note that one well respected Japanese manufacturer only uses this fin design on their high-end kits. Their standard kits use a less efficient and cheaper extruded inner tube.

Our end tanks are formed from 2mm sheet aluminium and feature a stamped radius at the tube connection. This results in a very light weight intercooler, with excellent flow charactoristics.

I am a huge fan of Japanese products myself, but I suggest you look more closely at the product than the name. I feel that in this case at least, you will find the Australian product to be of very high quality and excellent value.

One other thing that is worth noting, is that in America, if you own a WRX and want an Intercooler the firs choice is either APS or TurboXS/Hyperflow. If you haven't got the money, the next choice is the Japanese kits.......

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...