Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys just joined up and have a defected skyline that needs RTA inspection to clear defect, i got it at auction and the cops and RTA wont tell me what its for im from Adelaide and was wondering if anyone here knew what sort of things they would fail me for its an R33 built 03/96 heres a few things ive noticed, has bodykit and plastic tab on RH headlamp which it screws to is missing on front spoiler, ive noticed some stuff like exposed wiring and i heard blow-off valves were illegal Ive never taken a car through Regency park and have no idea how strict they are just thought Id look for some info from some guys that might have an idea,

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/350477-help-me-defected-r33/
Share on other sites

If it was my car, firstly I wouldn't have bought a defected skyline but bov, Exhaust, needs to be std. If the body kit is dodge, fix it or rip it off. Can't have any oil leaks. cv or steering rack boot leaks. Check kid interior for turbo timer. Seat belts in good nick. Std air box and Std cooler helps. Std suspension. Pretty much if you bought it defected ill take it back to a Std skyline. Go to regency once, saves time and money. Good luck

I thought BOVs were only illegal if they were vent to atmo?

also I didn't know turbo timers were illegal...

yeah your right,i did mean only a aftermarket bov. And unless they have changed the rules at regency then turbo timers are illegal, they even search for them if you stuff them up your dash.

Hey guys just joined up and have a defected skyline that needs RTA inspection to clear defect, i got it at auction and the cops and RTA wont tell me what its for im from Adelaide and was wondering if anyone here knew what sort of things they would fail me for its an R33 built 03/96 heres a few things ive noticed, has bodykit and plastic tab on RH headlamp which it screws to is missing on front spoiler, ive noticed some stuff like exposed wiring and i heard blow-off valves were illegal Ive never taken a car through Regency park and have no idea how strict they are just thought Id look for some info from some guys that might have an idea,

Thanks

If you have to ask the above on a forum then do yourself a favour and save the hassle - call the number below:

we specialise in removing defects, especially r33's

give me a call if you like on 8347 0111

cheers

steve

Otherwise post up some photos of the car so we can give you a rough idea on what needs to be removed/changed. Photo of the following would be helping: engine, interior dash, exterior and suspension behind the wheel. Being an old car it will most likely have worn bushes and have 'play' in the suspension which will need to be fixed up because the inspectors at Regency WILL check if there is any 'play' and bushes.

  • Like 2

If you don't know the list of mods that the car has, go through Regency and let them go over it and they will tell you what you you'll have to change and fix.

Or call Smooth Garage on 8244 4344

They are pretty much right across from the inspection station and can get your car off defect and even take it through for you if you don't have the time. Great prices, good guys and they will look after you!

  • Like 1

Heres some pics, I know nothing about Skylines and turbo charged/fuel injected motors, I have mucked around with old cars a fair bit building engines etc but thought this was a bargain for $1900 and I cant resist a bargain! shes got 152 on the clock was imported last year goin by the approval no. code 1012101/010 still had jap wheels on the back too, took her for a fang with my mates trade plates and she runs like a dream

was wondering if wasI ripped off or not coz I have no idea about these cars and there value but its growing on me already! should have the defect of soon its just bov and boost control ill just get my mechanic to give her a check over then take her through

DSC00213.jpg?t=1295394248

DSC00212.jpg?t=1295394248

DSC00211.jpg?t=1295394248

DSC00210.jpg?t=1295394248

I think you will find there will be alot more to getting the defect off then just changing the bov and boost controller.

Your in for a full inspection so dont expect to get it through on the first try,

just to give you an idea. The 400r front bar you have the indicators are to close together and they could fail you for that (happened to my old R33).

or you could just sell it to me for 2 grand and ill have a cheap track car :ninja:

I think you will find there will be alot more to getting the defect off then just changing the bov and boost controller.

Your in for a full inspection so dont expect to get it through on the first try,

just to give you an idea. The 400r front bar you have the indicators are to close together and they could fail you for that (happened to my old R33).

or you could just sell it to me for 2 grand and ill have a cheap track car :ninja:

If I sold it for 2 grand id lose i already spent 400 on 2 new tyres for the rear so that makes 2300, It will get through first time coz my mechanic knows what hes doing, hes guaranteed me. He even said if it doesnt then hell pay for it to go through again! its clean underneath and the wheel bearings are good. It does need seat bolts though, when I get it cleared I might sell it if I dont like it. It was defected in May last year and if it was imported last year then its only been in the in the country for 12 months at most and off the road for 6 , cant believe the f**kwits can fail u for indicators too close thats a joke

Edited by rickr333

Failing people for ADR / compliance items seems completely normal and sane to me.

Yeah I spose if u drive a cop magnet regularly then that would be your opinion as u have no choice, I have 2 other cars with several illegal engine mods and they are full illegal conversions too, ive had cops look under the bonnet of both and they dont even know what they are looking for, it seems to me like the cops have been clued in or trained up or something on the skylines coz they're all over them like stink on shit

  • Like 1

Are all 96 models series 2? Theres no ABS which I didn't think was an option on S2?

Charcoal canister is not stock, but looks to be connected up so might pass?

FPR looks to be connected up differently to stock.

ATMO BOV

Is the pod filter secured

Looks like the stock boost gauge may have been disconnected, check everything on the cluster works.

Hit the headlights with some plastx and clean the engine bay.

Are all 96 models series 2? Theres no ABS which I didn't think was an option on S2?

Charcoal canister is not stock, but looks to be connected up so might pass?

FPR looks to be connected up differently to stock.

ATMO BOV

Is the pod filter secured

Looks like the stock boost gauge may have been disconnected, check everything on the cluster works.

Hit the headlights with some plastx and clean the engine bay.

Yeah pod filter is secured, no boost gauge in the car one of the defects was non ADR gauges in footwell but they're gone now....

engine bay will be cleane its just dusty as from sitting for about 6 months, do I need a boost gauge as a requirement if I have a turbo???

Also what is the purpose of the braces in the engine bay and boot?? is it something to do with the car havn a weak body???

Edited by rickr333

just to give you an idea. The 400r front bar you have the indicators are to close together and they could fail you for that (happened to my old R33).

youve got to be joking... (this is not aimed at you personally)

sounds like you've had to deal with a complete f**king idiot regency inspector who was most probably bullied in school.

what if you actually had a 400R going through for inspection? indicators too close together, no pass? f*&^ off!

youve got to be joking... (this is not aimed at you personally)

sounds like you've had to deal with a complete f**king idiot regency inspector who was most probably bullied in school.

what if you actually had a 400R going through for inspection? indicators too close together, no pass? f*&^ off!

Perhaps this particular inspector was molested as a child by some-one that drove a skyline??

or maybe molested IN a skyline

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...