Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25 Exhaust Manifold Installed: 1 Bolt Hole Threaded

islade

By islade,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

islade Rising Star

islade

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

Just installed my new exhaust manifold. It's a stock one with external gate attached to it. Anyway, 11 studs are very happily installed. The one on the top row second from the rear somehow threaded out the hole it's supposed to go into. So i've installed it gently, but if i put any real pressure on it, it spins freely as i've obviously damaged the threads inside the hole.

If all 11 others are attached securely, am I going to be okay, or is this going to be exhaust leak central?

If it is a problem, how do i fix this?

Thanks,

Isaac

The Mafia Grand Master

The Mafia

Posted
Posted

Exhaust leak central

Where is the stripped hole? Go and get a helicoil kit, and repair it. Its piss easy to do. Just make sure you have a practice somewhere if you haven't done it before.

Also, you might even be able to do it where it is without taking the manifold off.

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

aslong as both the manifold and head are straight and clean then it'll be fine, and given the top row is pretty easy to get to with a standard manifold anyway it cant hurt to see how it goes.

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

aslong as both the manifold and head are straight and clean then it'll be fine, and given the top row is pretty easy to get to with a standard manifold anyway it cant hurt to see how it goes.

You can't be serious? It's going to leak no matter how flat both surfaces are. Not straight away, but eventually. Then it destroys a gasket, and other studs that cop the heat from it.

Do it once, do it properly. Helicoil as suggested above

JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

so all the hundreds of standard cars driving around with 3-4 studs fallen out with no leaks are miracles? its a thick cast iron manifold, its not gonna bend from 1 missing stud

The Dan Grand Master

The Dan

Posted
Posted

so all the hundreds of standard cars driving around with 3-4 studs fallen out with no leaks are miracles? its a thick cast iron manifold, its not gonna bend from 1 missing stud

Didn't say the manifold was going to bend. It's going to leak though. And the studs fallen out of hundreds of standard cars is because the gasket is leaking, causing the hot gases to pass over the stud. If he puts this all back together without fixing it while it's close, then it WILL leak, it's only a matter of time....and from what I have seen, no more than about 3 months depending on what he does with the car

islade Rising Star

islade

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Cool

I don't think it's worth "seeing how it goes" because the inconvenience of removing everything again overpowers the "pay some mobile dude $88 to come fix it for me tomorrow)

Words stupidest question, but with the studs, does the "long threaded end" or "short threaded end" go into the head?

JE-R33GTS-T Apprentice

JE-R33GTS-T

Posted
Posted (edited)

As for studs I had one stuck in with loctite from the previous owner haha no wonder the back two cylinders had no exhaust gasket left I pulled the stud out with my fingers

Edited by JE-R33GTS-T
JonnoHR31 Grand Master

JonnoHR31

Posted
Posted

Cool

I don't think it's worth "seeing how it goes" because the inconvenience of removing everything again overpowers the "pay some mobile dude $88 to come fix it for me tomorrow)

Words stupidest question, but with the studs, does the "long threaded end" or "short threaded end" go into the head?

short end goes into the head

Smegul Explorer

Smegul

Posted
Posted

You can't be serious? It's going to leak no matter how flat both surfaces are. Not straight away, but eventually. Then it destroys a gasket, and other studs that cop the heat from it.

Do it once, do it properly. Helicoil as suggested above

what? I have 2 broken studs and have never had a leaking problem???

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

you'll probably find that the cars that have broken a stud over time may or may not have a leak due to being on the car for hundreds of hot/cold cylces were the gasket has bonded slightly to the head and manifold. It's a bit hit and miss, I had 1 broken stud and didnt have any exhaust leaks but others might not be so luc

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted (edited)

you'll probably find that the cars that have broken a stud over time may or may not have a leak due to being on the car for hundreds of hot/cold cylces were the gasket has bonded slightly to the head and manifold. It's a bit hit and miss, I had 1 broken stud and didnt have any exhaust leaks but others might not be so lucky.

With a new gasket as said above, this will not work as the gasket will leak pretty quickly

Edited by 89CAL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...