Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys im going to change my timing belt on my rb25det. i have been told to get a timing light however if i line all the marks up correctly i shouldnt need to use a timing light. a few people have told me to use one and a few of the mechanics at my work have told me not to worry. just wondering what everyone elses opinion is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352692-timing-light-do-i-need-one/
Share on other sites

Yeah mate Put a light on it my cas just died I replaced it and I put the new one in the same place and my timing is all screwed I have flat spots all thru the revs till after 5g and then my car violently jerks back and forth backfires and is a right pig to drive

There is a solid white wire just befor the igniter you use that as your number 1 trigger wire for your timing light ;)

for series 1 or 2? i have S1

edit: just remembered S2 dont have an igniter

Edited by Clutch

same thing. same spot. no ignitor.

replacing the CAS with another one you Definitely have to check the timing. if your doing the 100 tho service, and using the old one again, then mark it beforehand and put it back as you found it is an OK way of doing it...but I'd still suggest checking it with a timing light again at the end anyways.

if you need to buy one (i did, my old one was too old school) then make sure you get one that clips over wires......not under a spark plug lead.

simple, clip the clip over the white wire. positive and a negative on the alligator clips and your away!!

Edited by boiracer

same thing. same spot. no ignitor.

replacing the CAS with another one you Definitely have to check the timing. if your doing the 100 tho service, and using the old one again, then mark it beforehand and put it back as you found it is an OK way of doing it...but I'd still suggest checking it with a timing light again at the end anyways.

if you need to buy one (i did, my old one was too old school) then make sure you get one that clips over wires......not under a spark plug lead.

simple, clip the clip over the white wire. positive and a negative on the alligator clips and your away!!

that sounds easy as

so once i have the (good) timing gun, attach to white leads, and read the timing degree on the gun? that how it goes?

It's been a while but off the top of my head you need to mark the TDC point on the harmonic ballancer should be a little mark on the pulley then behind the pulley should be the timing marks you need to point the gun at the marks and as the car idles you should see your TDC point line up with a certain degree of timing it should be around 15 degree before TDC if that makes sense tho it has been a while I could be off a lil

Car needs to be put into base idle mode when checking the timing, either doing it through CONSULT software (ecutalk etc).. I'm not sure if unplugging the TPS or unplugging some other related thing will put it into base idle mode as well.

Getting the timing light to work with the loop wire is not always easy.

For a surefire way of doing it. Get a spark plug lead (old or new) remove number one coilpack and put the lead over the spark plug. Slip a bolt into the end of the coilpack and put the other end of the spark plug lead over the bolt. Now your skyline is oldschool with leads and sh!t ;)

Clip your timing light over that and you'll be sweet. I say this cause we could not get the loop wire to work on my car and had to do this

Getting the timing light to work with the loop wire is not always easy.

For a surefire way of doing it. Get a spark plug lead (old or new) remove number one coilpack and put the lead over the spark plug. Slip a bolt into the end of the coilpack and put the other end of the spark plug lead over the bolt. Now your skyline is oldschool with leads and sh!t ;)

Clip your timing light over that and you'll be sweet. I say this cause we could not get the loop wire to work on my car and had to do this

spot on.

also, some cheap timing lights read double when using the loop at the rear of the motor. nfi why but they do....i had a supercheap one that was sending me crazy reading 40o when it was really at 20o

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LOL.... a good amount of people (not all) on that continent seem to know everything and like to measure things in bananas, football fields, statue of liberties instead of the metric system lol.
    • I assume the modules are similar enough, so if you've had no issues I don't see why I would. I have tried to find a wiring diagram for the FPCM / fuel pump circuit, but I can't find it anywhere. Otherwise, I would just do some wire cutting and joining at the FPCM and give the 12 V supplied to the FPCM directly to the pump instead. If you know anyone that could help with wiring diagrams, I'd be very happy  
    • If it dies, then bypass. The task isn't difficult. I have one running on a standard R32 FPCM. That's after nearly 20 years of it running an 040, which pull substantially more current than the Walbro. They're not the same module, but I'd hope it indicates that the R33 one should be man enough for the job. I think people kill them when putting proper sized pumps on them, not these little toy pumps we're talking about here.
    • Silicone spray won't hurt anything. And if it does, that's an opportunity to put some solid steel spherical bushings in, so you can really learn what suspension noise sounds like, If you're going to try it, just spray one bush at a time, so you can work out which one is actually noisy. My best guess is that if the noise started only since putting the coilovers in, then it is just noise being transmitted up through the top mounts of the struts, and not necessarily "new" noise from bushes. But it's almost impossible to know.
    • Are you saying the 34 is SUV height, and not that we're talking about an SUV here? (because if we're talking about an SUV, you don't fix them. You just replace them when something breaks. Not worth establishing sufficient emotional connection with an SUV to warrant doing any work on one). I wouldn't jack my car up on a short little loop of 10mm steel rod poking out through a hole in the bumper bar, front or rear end. I realise that we're probably not talking about that type of loop at the front, being the one under/behind the bar on a Skyline.... but even for that one, trying to jack up on what amounts to a thin piece of steel, designed purely for withstanding a horizontal tension force, not a vertical compressive force (and so would be prone to buckling/crushing) and, my most particular bitch about it - located RIGHT AT THE EXTREME FRONT OF THE CAR, applying a load up through the radiator support panel, etc, with almost the entire mass of the car cantilevered between there and the rear wheels? Nope. Not doing that. Not on the regular. That structure out there in front of the front crossmember is not designed to carry load in the vertical direction. Not really designed to carry any load at all, really. The chassis rail that the tow point is connected to would be fine loaded in tension, as per towing. Not intended to carry the mass of the whole car, especially loaded all on one rail, with twisting and all sorts of shitty load distribution going on. No, I will happily drive up on some pieces of wood, thanks. That can only happen on driven wheels, and they are at the other end of the car, and this problem does not exist at that end of the car. And even then, I have been known to drive up on at least 1x piece of 2x8 each side at the rear, simply to reduce the amount of jack pumping necessary to get the car up high enough for the jack stands. What really really shits me about Skylines is the lack of decent places for chassis stands at either end of the car. You'd think they'd be designed into the crossmembers.
×
×
  • Create New...