Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just had a POD installed on my 1996 GTS25T and now when i hit boost at about 4000-4500rpm it feels like you just slammed on the brakes then let them off and slammed ur foot on the accelerater. Its really violent. Is it possible that they have broken my afm because it didnt do this before they installed it? what other causes could there be. I have tried resetting my ecu but that didnt help.

only other mod is a 3" cat back.

Thanks.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/35273-problem-after-pod-installation/
Share on other sites

the 4000-4500rpm is when the boost solenoid opens and goes to 7psi, from 5psi

not sure why you'd get the slamming feeling? Maybe take the pod off and check your AFM for damage? Or try a friends 33 afm and see that goes, maybe swap pod and afrm from another 33

sounds right jay! once the pod goes on and removes alot of restriction it will let the turbo spin easier! happened to me when my pod broke open! started pushing 16PSI in and boost cut came on hard, similar things to what you've described bobby^ turn the boost down!

man if I had $1 for everytime this "cut at 4000-5000rpm" question I answered, I'd be rich..

with your new induction and free flowing exhaust, you are getting a higher boost.

therefore, you get a miss.

fix = take out your spark plugs, re-gap them to 0.8mm and put them back in and go for a thrash.. you'll see redline without a hitch.

The reason you only get the flat spot from 4500 to 5000 is because you computer adds more fuel at this point to allow for the extra boost that your factory boost soliniod is adding. This flooding effect may now have been multiplied buy that fact that your air filter is flowing better. 4500-5000 is also the point in which the variable cam shaft kicks in which from my understanding will also allow a greater flow.

This prob is also caused by the ecu rev limiting but not the case for you if you have the stock boost controller. Ps, since you where mssing with the pod and stuff check to make sure that the hoses to the boost solinoid are on tight, if not then you are bleeding more boost then stock.

After changing the gaps in the plugs, make sure you re-set the ecu again as every time you are experiencing this flat spot your ecu could be retarding your timing which equals loss of power.

my 2 cents, hope this helps as I can remember how pi**ed off I got when I had ignition probs...

Hey ive got no pod on my 33, but ive got a front mount and full exhaust (stock boost), when i hit about 6800 or there abouts, it feels like it has hit the injector cut out, could this be a similar problem? maybe i should gap the plugs down aswell?

i have no boost control of any kind, factory gauge says 3.5psi :S

Hey there,

The factory gauge in the R33 doesn't read in PSI. I'm not sure what form it measures in as I don't have a Skyline. Possibly microbar or dyne/centimeter2??

The problem with my car was that mag and turbo had given me a shit pod filter. After spending 1.30hours in st hitech in new market, having changed the sparkplugs and ****ed around for ages they installed a apexi pod instead of the shit one that mag and turbo had put in, it was only 30$ more. The whole exercise cost me 420 including pod and sparkplugs (my old spark plugs were crap). Costly to say the least.

What we can learn:

-Mag and turbo are useless

-St Hitech kick ass

-Apexi duel funnel > all

at least mag and turbo gave me my money back after much persuasion.

What we can learn:

-Mag and turbo are useless

-St Hitech kick ass

-Apexi duel funnel > all

at least mag and turbo gave me my money back after much persuasion.

how about adding to the "What we can learn" list..

should have bought a $90 K&N panel filter to replace factory filter and have NO problems and better gain than what you have now.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ok so if i wanted to go 18's i would go for 8's  in front 30+ or 32+ off set at front and the back 9 would be ok? what offset should i aim for.. then can i do some  hunting for wheel rim choices..    If i get this - will this fit all around: Size: 18 x 8.5 +37 - n what tyres size tyre should i get for front n back?  
    • Absolute f*cking nightmare. I had to take breaks constantly, and I was always pissed off when I got home. The line split in Italy on day 2 (we drove from the Netherlands), lol. Driving any narrow European town was... well, sh*t.   Appreciate it man. Here, I'll just drop a favourite from the load I took on Saturday.   I'll update here when things happen with the car, the thing is, with stock power and almost everything chassis-wise taken care of, there really are no problems. 268,000kms now and counting.  
    • Ah! I actually managed to snag a lightly used set.... that aren't so suitable for me right now. They don't work on a GTT without some cutting or creative heat moulding. I thought about reselling them myself cause I didn't want to murder them, but it looks like I'm probably going to attempt to murder them/melt them because I may as well. @GTSBoy @PranK can somebody close this thread?
    • Hey mate,  I have a set, one is slightly damaged but wont be noticable once installed.  Shoot me a message if your still after them 
    • I couldn't wait But, the black constant tension hose clamps were too thick and there wasn't enough clearance at the T/B and I couldn't get it to seat properly, so I had use a silver one there I also added some 3" silicone over the alloy bit that goes through to hole on the radiator support as it looked like it was sitting on the edge of the hole in the radiator support, I never noticed a rattle or anything, but there was a witness mark It is basicly done, and I can live with the silver hose clamp at the T/B, I will get a black clamp for the head vent though where it is attached to the bulkhead fitting  It never stops...LOL, only issue now with the shock tower brace is it slightly touches the under bonnet liner now, if I leave it it will either wear some paint off the brace where it touches, or damage the liner, so I removed the liner to see what I have to work with, with the liner removed I have about 20mm of clearance, but sadly the middle part of the underside of the bonnet is only dusted with paint and looks crap, so I cannot have that, but.... as I have a roll of Carbuilders premium under bonnet insulation in the garage laying around that is only 5.5mm thick (we were going to use it on the boys Patrol, but he crashed the front of it a few months and it was written off, hence why he now drives my old Honda Accord Euro), I'll use the OEM liner as a template and get the Carbuilders stuff fitted up to cover that dusted paint up
×
×
  • Create New...