Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all time to sell my skyline and cheap too ...

Car has almost ran out of rego and it is time to sell her off to the next owner ....

1992 model R32 GTS

R33 GTS-T 4spd Auto with torque converter and stage 2 shift kit fitted ...

RB20DE silver top

R33 GTR brakes front with 5 stud conversion

R33 GTS rear 4 stud brakes (comes with the complete Turbo 5 stud rear upgrade just not fitted )

2 sets of wheels - stock full set of GTST wheels with new kuhmo rubber

set of SSA or something 17" wheels that are 4 stud ... with crappy rubber

2x exhausts come with the car

Fitted now the car has COBY extractors 3" high flow CATCO catalytic converter and 2.5" system (LOUD) and have a 2 1/4" legal exhaust to go with the car ...

Has pedders sportsryder suspension all round , Full polyurethane bush kit all round , pedders rear swaybar , some jap branded strut brace front

Car is in pretty average condition , engine is getting a bit tired , speedo cable needs to be popped back into the back of the cluster as it popped out (brand new cable fitted a month ago) can hear it spinning so the cable is fine just popped out after 1.6km

Has full stereo 2x 12" pioneer subs in boot in custom box , sony headunit etc...

Going cheap needs to go have 4 cars and a motorbike and need to pay back my personal loan pretty quickly ..

Would make a very nice Daily with a RB25DE swap (cheap) or do a full RB25DET swap since it allready has the 25 turbo box in it neways

Car still runs and is driven to work daily ... but you can feel that the motor is getting tired

Has done me for the past 3 years now and need to sell it ...

Paint has faded and could do with a really really good wash and polish to bring it up to spec ... haven't cleaned it in a while

here are a few pics from 2008 ... it now is sporting GTST wheels on front with GTR brakes and R33 GOLD 4 spot calipers

Posting up a few large pics so hope ppls internet isnt too slow

Car has driven me from canberra to Melbourne and to Geelong and back to canberra again so it has been pretty bloody reliable

Contact me Michael or my missus Andrea on 0423486582 or PM me

Cheers Mike

2yud01e.jpg

2wnsc2u.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352738-fs-92-r32-gst-skyline/
Share on other sites

Some people will hate me for this.......but. here goes anyway....that would make a great Gen111 V8 manual conversion (motor is tired anyways) , seriously at around 1290kg with a very light all aluminium 5.7 or 6.0 litre V8 and 6 speed box? I would nearly bet that a Gen111 would not weigh any more than a RB20DE engine. Now I am not a big fan of pushrod V8s but with the torque of nearly 6 litres, that would make a real fun package.

If you can just think about a light weight, great handling car with great brakes (GTR), and tons of torque, wow! And its not like a "collectable" (Sorry HR32GTS) Skyline would be sacrificed.

Now time to duck the inevitable flack that this suggestion will draw.

Sure is cheap enough too! Good luck with the sale!

Now back to my Bourbon and Coke to wait for the onslaught.

I should add if someone is really serious about making this into a drift car ....

I have a full wide body kit for it as well ....

BN SPORTS BLISTER KIT FOR R32 .... It's the widest kit that they make ....

50-mm wide front guards and 70-mm wide rear guards the kit is huge ....

Only thing is I am after $1500 FIRM for the bodykit and wont go any lower as it is brand new and never been fitted , by the time you purchase the kit from japan and shipping etc... it is close to $5500

As I said the car would be perfect for a conversion ... the car still runs and I drive it to work when I am not riding my motorbike which has been a lot lately considering the rain

Need to downsize my car collection and pay off a few things so car has to go soon ...

yeah, just tiring to add up the cost of everything else it would need. but i ran out of fingers. :nyaanyaa:

so far i got

-diff

-coilovers, arms etc

-cage

-exhaust

-all the little shit that adds up

what else?

im currently wanting a rego'd track car so i can drive it to workshops, tyre shop motorkhanas etc. the thirtypoo also has has better geometry rear end setup as well.

but its a 32...

Sorry but the car is gonna be sold complete I don't have the time to strip it down ,,,, and also the RB20DE that is in it currently could do with a rebuild (Requires piston compression rings ) due to a lack of compression across the whole engine which is around the 110 psi range on all cylinders ....

It starts and runs fine ... blows no smoke ... (hence only compression rings) just lacks major low end torque but it starts to make power from 4000 rpm to redline which is around 6500 rpm also feels like the ignition timing could be slightly retarded ...

hmmm ... Can't believe there isn't more interest in the car on the forum ....

Cheapest R32 with all the mods done allready (apart from the RB25DET or RB26dett swap)

Ready for the motor transplant ...

No stupid Hicas to worry about cos the GTS doesn't come with it ... so even better setup from factory for drifting ,,,,

well i would buy it if i needed another car at the moment, even have a NEO 25 that will be left over after the rb30 goes into my stagea....... been wanting a 32 for a little while now, coolest skylines by far, after the 31 of course!

but i have no need for it :( which means i would get killed for buying it. which is a real shame, its exactly what i would buy if i was allowed, but 4 cars is enough apparently.

good luck with the sale!

D.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...