Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would like to know how to remove the carbon canister (with pics if possible). i have done a search, but found out its a legal requirement for these to be installed in Aus, which im guessing is the reason for lack of information on this topic. I Live in NZ and our laws are very relaxed compared to yours, so we arent required by law to have one.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352834-removal-of-carbon-canister/
Share on other sites

Just rip it all out and make sure all the vacuum lines are plumbed back in.

Can't really go wrong with it.

Make sure you keep the line coming out of the petrol tank venting to atmosphere though.

There is quite a bit you get to remove:

post-35676-0-67289900-1296804638_thumb.jpg

Yeah pretty easy to remove i done mine along time ago, the concept of these shitty things is to remove the fumes from your fuel tank then returns them into the intake to be burnt up in the engine. Can't quite remember of the top of my head how many hoses go to it but the ones that go to the engine can be taken off and capped or plugged, the solid steel one that comes from the fuel tank can either be removed or shorten it and put a little breather filter on it. IF you don't cap the ones from the engine properly the engine will run like shit. But yeah they are just a useless waste of space.

Just rip it all out and make sure all the vacuum lines are plumbed back in.

Can't really go wrong with it.

Make sure you keep the line coming out of the petrol tank venting to atmosphere though.

There is quite a bit you get to remove:

post-35676-0-67289900-1296804638_thumb.jpg

looks like you have some hard lines in that pic? how far back did you remove the stuff?

the lines from the plenum look easy, it was the other 2 i have no idea about?

cheers

Im pretty sure they right back to the fuel tank, all i done with my mates R34 GTR was cut it shorter along the chassis rail and put a little filter on it as the fuel tank will still need to breathe unless you put another breather system on it other wise you will probably need a car hoist to remove it properly.

Sorry but what does a carbon canister do? just read that basically stop fuel vapour being released? never herd of one till reading ur post.

im in nz too

i think it was put there mainly for emissions. i dont believe there are gains for removing it, its just bloody ugly lol

yeah it was for emissions but yeah your right it is ugly as and it just more shit that gets in the way when your trying to do stuff to your engine and no matter how hard you try you will not make it look pretty lol

Im not 100% sure but there should only one hard line, the fuel tanks needs to breathe otherwise the tank will build up pressure on a hot day and that could be messy, the ones going to the intake were there so the fumes could go back into the engine and be disposed of by being burnt in the combustion chambers, so block them off otherwise the engine will not make vacuum and this could cause it to not run healthy or not run at all

Just to explain the hard lines in my picture. Even though there are four hard lines, it is essentially just the one that has been cut into pieces since that is the only way to remove it with everything still in the car.

From the bottom of the carbon canister is a rubber line that goes to a hard line. This hard lines runs behind the engine along the firewall towards the drivers side. It then meets another rubber line and then this goes into a hard line running underneath the car along side the chassis rail to the fuel tank.

So the majority of lines you see in my picture are what run underneath the car and along the firewall.

Like I said, you really can't mess it up. Think of it logically. You fuel tank needs to vent, hence the lines needs to be venting to atmosphere. Your engine can not vent, therefore any lines going to it need to be blocked off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...