Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I would like to know how to remove the carbon canister (with pics if possible). i have done a search, but found out its a legal requirement for these to be installed in Aus, which im guessing is the reason for lack of information on this topic. I Live in NZ and our laws are very relaxed compared to yours, so we arent required by law to have one.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/352834-removal-of-carbon-canister/
Share on other sites

Just rip it all out and make sure all the vacuum lines are plumbed back in.

Can't really go wrong with it.

Make sure you keep the line coming out of the petrol tank venting to atmosphere though.

There is quite a bit you get to remove:

post-35676-0-67289900-1296804638_thumb.jpg

Yeah pretty easy to remove i done mine along time ago, the concept of these shitty things is to remove the fumes from your fuel tank then returns them into the intake to be burnt up in the engine. Can't quite remember of the top of my head how many hoses go to it but the ones that go to the engine can be taken off and capped or plugged, the solid steel one that comes from the fuel tank can either be removed or shorten it and put a little breather filter on it. IF you don't cap the ones from the engine properly the engine will run like shit. But yeah they are just a useless waste of space.

Just rip it all out and make sure all the vacuum lines are plumbed back in.

Can't really go wrong with it.

Make sure you keep the line coming out of the petrol tank venting to atmosphere though.

There is quite a bit you get to remove:

post-35676-0-67289900-1296804638_thumb.jpg

looks like you have some hard lines in that pic? how far back did you remove the stuff?

the lines from the plenum look easy, it was the other 2 i have no idea about?

cheers

Im pretty sure they right back to the fuel tank, all i done with my mates R34 GTR was cut it shorter along the chassis rail and put a little filter on it as the fuel tank will still need to breathe unless you put another breather system on it other wise you will probably need a car hoist to remove it properly.

Sorry but what does a carbon canister do? just read that basically stop fuel vapour being released? never herd of one till reading ur post.

im in nz too

i think it was put there mainly for emissions. i dont believe there are gains for removing it, its just bloody ugly lol

yeah it was for emissions but yeah your right it is ugly as and it just more shit that gets in the way when your trying to do stuff to your engine and no matter how hard you try you will not make it look pretty lol

Im not 100% sure but there should only one hard line, the fuel tanks needs to breathe otherwise the tank will build up pressure on a hot day and that could be messy, the ones going to the intake were there so the fumes could go back into the engine and be disposed of by being burnt in the combustion chambers, so block them off otherwise the engine will not make vacuum and this could cause it to not run healthy or not run at all

Just to explain the hard lines in my picture. Even though there are four hard lines, it is essentially just the one that has been cut into pieces since that is the only way to remove it with everything still in the car.

From the bottom of the carbon canister is a rubber line that goes to a hard line. This hard lines runs behind the engine along the firewall towards the drivers side. It then meets another rubber line and then this goes into a hard line running underneath the car along side the chassis rail to the fuel tank.

So the majority of lines you see in my picture are what run underneath the car and along the firewall.

Like I said, you really can't mess it up. Think of it logically. You fuel tank needs to vent, hence the lines needs to be venting to atmosphere. Your engine can not vent, therefore any lines going to it need to be blocked off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
    • It was picked up on the MOT/Inspection that the offside front wheel bearing had excessive play along with the ball joint. It made sense to do both sides so I sourced a pair of spare IS200 hubs to do the swap. Unfortunately I don't have any photos of the strip down but here's a quick run down. On the back of the hub is a large circular dust cover, using a flat head screw driver and a mallet I prised it off. Underneath will reveal a 32mm hub nut (impact gun recommended). With the hub nut removed the ABS ring can be removed (I ended up using a magnetic pick up tool to help). Next up is to remove the stub axle, this was a little trickier due to limited tools. I tried a 3 leg puller but the gap between the hub and stub axle wasn't enough for the legs to get in and under. Next option was a lump hammer and someone pulling the stub axle at the same time. After a few heavy hits it released. The lower bearing race had seized itself onto the stub axle, which was fine because I was replacing them anyway. With the upper bearing race removed and the grease cleaned off they looked like this The left one looked pristine inside but gave us the most trouble. The right one had some surface rust but came apart in a single hit, figure that out?! I got a local garage to press the new wheel bearings in, reassemble was the opposite and didn't take long at all. Removing the hub itself was simple. Starting with removing the brake caliper, 2x 14mm bolts for the caliper slider and 2x 19mm? for the carrier > hub bolts. I used a cable tie to secure the caliper to the upper arm so it was out of the way, there's a 10mm bolt securing the ABS sensor on. With the brake disc removed from the hub next are the three castle nuts for the upper and lower ball joints and track rod end. Two of these had their own R clip and one split pin. A few hits with the hammer and they're released (I left the castle nuts on by a couple of turns), the track rod ends gave me the most grief and I may have nipped the boots (oops). Fitting is the reversal and is very quick and easy to do. The lower ball joints are held onto the hub by 2x 17mm bolts. The castle nut did increase in socket size to 22mm from memory (this may vary from supplier) The two front tyres weren't in great condition, so I had those replaced with some budget tyres for the time being. I'll be replacing the wheels and tyres in the future, this was to get me on the road without the worry of the police hassling me.
    • Yep, the closest base tune available was for the GTT, I went with that and made all the logical changes I could find to convert it to Naturally Aspirated. It will rev fine in Neutral to redline but it will be cutting nearly 50% fuel the whole way.  If I let it tune the fuel map to start with that much less fuel it wont run right and has a hard time applying corrections.  These 50% cuts are with a fuel map already about half of what the GTT tune had.  I was having a whole lot of bogging when applying any throttle but seem to have fixed that for no load situations with very aggressive transient throttle settings. I made the corrections to my injectors with data I found for them online, FBCJC100 flowing 306cc.  I'll have to look to see if I can find the Cam section. I have the Bosch 4.9 from Haltech. My manifold pressure when watching it live is always in -5.9 psi/inHg
    • Hi My Tokico BM50 Brake master cylinder has a leak from the hole between the two outlets (M10x1) for brake pipes, I have attached a photo. Can anyone tell me what that hole is and what has failed to allow brake fluid to escape from it, I have looked on line and asked questions on UK forums but can not find the answer, if anyone can enlighten me I would be most grateful.
    • It will be a software setting. I don't believe many on here ever used AEM. And they're now a discontinued product,that's really hard to find any easy answers on. If it were Link or Haltech, someone would be able to just send you a ECU file though.
×
×
  • Create New...