Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

We'll be going, might try to get a car on the SAU stand this year, probably the silver GTR if I can get nicer wheels to fit over these brakes - Will take the BSM GTR and open wheeler to the SDMA stand.

Unless its p!ssing down rain of course, then I think I will stay at home... I know Im slack.

F1 is on in the afternoon, so unless you're in Melbourne to see it live, you can still come to wheels and watch the F1 in the afternoon :woot:

I think John has the banner... not sure who owned the tent from last time (might have been John as well?)... so I guess if he's going, then the answer is yes.

Otherwise someone else might want to grab the banner, find a tent, and take charge :)

So are we any closer to having a final count?

Do we have to do anything in the way of registering beforehand - or is there just a designated area in the park to turn up to?

Also is it in the bit between finance and treasury or is it the park area between the national library and the lake?

It's directly in front of Old Parliament House... that whole area and off to the sides as well.

There's a designated area for Jap crap :P

And yes, I'm pretty sure we have told them we were coming in previous years.

Wow I totally forgot about it until my father called me and asked where I was.

Seems like no one has turned up anyway, bad day for it this year. No one asked for the banner or the tent (yes I have both and they are both club property)

Post up some picks if anyone goes. Otherwise I'll see everyone at the dyno day with hopefully working AFM's.

You must have missed the best one:

IMG_1542.jpg

I took a couple of other photos as well. I was trying to get some photos of the Aston Martin's but it was crowded and people kept walking infornt of them. By the way, there is another thread with photos taken by Nathan.

IMG_1600.jpg

IMG_1634.jpg

IMG_1563.jpg

IMG_1561.jpg

IMG_1543.jpg

IMG_1556.jpg

IMG_1544.jpg

IMG_1539.jpg

IMG_1522.jpg

IMG_1513.jpg

IMG_1507.jpg

IMG_1486.jpg

IMG_1484.jpg

IMG_1480.jpg

IMG_1410.jpg

serious? the ridiculous idle, cranck evac line, huge 80+mm turbo, 6 point roll cage etc wont give it away before they even bother opening the boot.

PS the guys with john there are firey's

No thats why I put the smile on it, however technically all those things can be enginered and pass EPA (with a lot of work). NOS is always instant fail.

Wasn't sure about the one in light blue :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After using a protractor for an actually accurate assessment of what is required,  and by NOT using my uncalibrated eyeball I worked out I need a 25° silicone bend from the TB ro the MAF, but, my choice was either a 30° or a 23° (23° is a weird spec), so I grabbed the 23° one from Raceworks I also grabbed 1mtr of 3" straight from Just Jap, I needed 350mm, but they only had 300mm, or 1mtr lengths....meh Also ordered a 1/2" hose bulkhead fitting from fleabay, this has a smoothish mushroom looking head (they are designed for below the water line of boats) that will fit inside the bend, the hose bit and threaded bit looks to long, but nothing that a hacksaw cannot fix if required, the hose will then just get jamed on the threaded bit up to the retaining nut Fingers crossed and the unsightly amount of hose clamps will be reduced down to 4 once all the parts arrive 
    • Oil change does not trigger code 21. Code 21 is for coilpacks primary side connection. You can try to clear the code with a battery disconnect, hold down the brake pedal to drain capacitors through the brake lights with the ignition on for 10-15 seconds before you reconnect the battery. I have seen R35 coil conversion permanently cause this code with no ill effects so it might be the resistance it wants to see isn't quite right on one or more coilpacks. Could be inside the ECU, could be the harness, could be a coil. You can test it all if you want or just ignore until the car actually starts misfiring.
    • I forgot you have a Nistune ECU. Use Nistune to do all the tests I mentioned instead of faffing with 30+ year old electrical connectors. You can read MAF volts off that too, there are reference values in the service manual to tell you roughly what it should be in different conditions.
    • No. I think it might be the AFM. Hence the use of the terms "swaptronics", which implies the use of swapping out electronics for the purpose of diagnosis. It's about the only way to prove that a small/niggling/whatever problem with an AFM or a CAS or similar is actually caused by that AFM/CAS/whatever. A known good item swapped in that still gives the same problem is likely to be caused somewhere else. They're all the same. Spraying AFMs with cleaner is an each way bet between cleaning it and f**king it.
    • Oh wow! This might actually work amazingly. Do you know the ratio of the diff? I was told the only thing you need to make sure of is if the front & rear diff ratios are the same. Ours is a 4.083 Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...