Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay I have a vipec plug-in ecu. Now when it was tuned it turns out that the aircon wasn't working. The compressor itself wasn't activating. Now I have since had that fixed, it was a problem with the climate control unit, and I have had an extra switch put in to activate it.

Now the problem is whenever the aircon is activated the car has a tendency to stall when stopping, it appears that the ecu doesn't increase the revs in time to prevent the stall. It normally doesn't do this when the aircon is off. I presume this is due to less load on the engine. What would be the best way to fix this? Increase the idle speed? As it also tends to idle a bit low when the aircon is on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353082-vipec-idle-issue/
Share on other sites

In the ECU software increase the values in this table a bit and it should increase the revs when the aircon is on.

Idle Speed Control > Idle-Up Tables > Aircon Step

You could also check the RPM lockout value (mine is set at 400, however i have never had aircon so dont know if this is high enough with it on)

Idle Speed Control > Idle Speed Control > RPM Lockout

In the ECU software increase the values in this table a bit and it should increase the revs when the aircon is on.

Idle Speed Control > Idle-Up Tables > Aircon Step

You could also check the RPM lockout value (mine is set at 400, however i have never had aircon so dont know if this is high enough with it on)

Idle Speed Control > Idle Speed Control > RPM Lockout

RPM Lockout is at 800rpm

change my Aircon step from 5.1 to 8.1 across the the board. Will see if this makes a difference. It did seem to help the idle of the car when I had the car connected.

Ever since I got my AC working on the Vipec the idle wasn't perfect with it on, so I played around with it a bit and it was good enough (not perfect) so I left it like that.

However I was just thinking, is the AAC actually set up on the base map?! I don't remember ever seeing it on the Aux output?

EDIT: I just loaded up VTS and noticed it is in its own folder called Idle Speed Control. However what output is that actually using?

I have the same issue, really low idle when aircon is on with vipec plug in. mine is in need of a retune once i get new turbos etc so il get it fixed then, but i never had aircon regassed when ecu was installed either so now i know im not the only one with the problem lol

for a list of all analog/digital outputs and inputs and what they control, get the gtst/gtr manual off the vipec website.

the help file is ACTUALLY helpful. its by far the most comprehensive guide ive read. any issue ive had with my vipec ive searched the help file and its explained it all there in great detail, and it gives you a good idea on how it works.

Yeah the help file is great, I use it all the time. Makes it so much easier.

I got it to idle with the aircon on without stalling now which is great, however it still hunts up and down from 800-900 a bit. Not really sure how to smooth that out. Will keep trying.

Ahh good thinking. Yeah it is closed loop and the deadband is set to 30rpm. I'll try setting it to 100rpm or something and see how that goes.

So many thing to adjust!! Haha.

If you want it to idle properly you need proportional spark as well as closed loop idle control. The trick is to find the advance at which +/-10 degrees of timing gives you an equal increase/drop in rpm then apply your delta igntion numbers corresponding to the rpm you found and make your base idle timing the number you found earlier. Make sure you turn off all IAC control while doing this though.

Open up the bounds on the idle control to at least 100-150rpm you want it to do very little until +/-200 rpm from you desired idle speed..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...