Jump to content
SAU Community

Vipec Idle Issue

CeJay

By CeJay,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

CeJay Grand Master

CeJay

Posted
Posted

Okay I have a vipec plug-in ecu. Now when it was tuned it turns out that the aircon wasn't working. The compressor itself wasn't activating. Now I have since had that fixed, it was a problem with the climate control unit, and I have had an extra switch put in to activate it.

Now the problem is whenever the aircon is activated the car has a tendency to stall when stopping, it appears that the ecu doesn't increase the revs in time to prevent the stall. It normally doesn't do this when the aircon is off. I presume this is due to less load on the engine. What would be the best way to fix this? Increase the idle speed? As it also tends to idle a bit low when the aircon is on.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353082-vipec-idle-issue/
Share on other sites
TiTAN Grand Master

TiTAN

Posted
Posted

In the ECU software increase the values in this table a bit and it should increase the revs when the aircon is on.

Idle Speed Control > Idle-Up Tables > Aircon Step

You could also check the RPM lockout value (mine is set at 400, however i have never had aircon so dont know if this is high enough with it on)

Idle Speed Control > Idle Speed Control > RPM Lockout

CeJay Grand Master

CeJay

Posted
  • Author
Posted

In the ECU software increase the values in this table a bit and it should increase the revs when the aircon is on.

Idle Speed Control > Idle-Up Tables > Aircon Step

You could also check the RPM lockout value (mine is set at 400, however i have never had aircon so dont know if this is high enough with it on)

Idle Speed Control > Idle Speed Control > RPM Lockout

RPM Lockout is at 800rpm

change my Aircon step from 5.1 to 8.1 across the the board. Will see if this makes a difference. It did seem to help the idle of the car when I had the car connected.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Ever since I got my AC working on the Vipec the idle wasn't perfect with it on, so I played around with it a bit and it was good enough (not perfect) so I left it like that.

However I was just thinking, is the AAC actually set up on the base map?! I don't remember ever seeing it on the Aux output?

EDIT: I just loaded up VTS and noticed it is in its own folder called Idle Speed Control. However what output is that actually using?

85URK Grand Master

85URK

Posted
Posted

I have the same issue, really low idle when aircon is on with vipec plug in. mine is in need of a retune once i get new turbos etc so il get it fixed then, but i never had aircon regassed when ecu was installed either so now i know im not the only one with the problem lol

SECURITY Grand Master

SECURITY

Posted
Posted

for a list of all analog/digital outputs and inputs and what they control, get the gtst/gtr manual off the vipec website.

the help file is ACTUALLY helpful. its by far the most comprehensive guide ive read. any issue ive had with my vipec ive searched the help file and its explained it all there in great detail, and it gives you a good idea on how it works.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

Posted
Posted

Yeah the help file is great, I use it all the time. Makes it so much easier.

I got it to idle with the aircon on without stalling now which is great, however it still hunts up and down from 800-900 a bit. Not really sure how to smooth that out. Will keep trying.

rob82 Mentor

rob82

Posted
Posted

Ahh good thinking. Yeah it is closed loop and the deadband is set to 30rpm. I'll try setting it to 100rpm or something and see how that goes.

So many thing to adjust!! Haha.

If you want it to idle properly you need proportional spark as well as closed loop idle control. The trick is to find the advance at which +/-10 degrees of timing gives you an equal increase/drop in rpm then apply your delta igntion numbers corresponding to the rpm you found and make your base idle timing the number you found earlier. Make sure you turn off all IAC control while doing this though.

Open up the bounds on the idle control to at least 100-150rpm you want it to do very little until +/-200 rpm from you desired idle speed..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • funkymonkey
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By funkymonkey · Posted

      I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...