Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

would include chrome.. chrome and well some chrome.. did i mention some chrome?

generally ricer bays are regarded as the ones with the painted engine. chrome everything.. wires all hidden.. everythings done for show

Since when is having a nicely detailed engine bay a bad thing?

Fair enough you can go a bit overboard with chrome, but even then it can still look very nice. Dahtone's engine bay comes to mind in looking incredible with a lot of polished parts.

Lol about a TV screen though.

Don't think it's a bad thing.. I think there are the 'sleeper' guys who go for the "what mods does it have officer.. it's just stock" look.. Dahtone was gonna be my example.. Looks great..

Don't think it's a bad thing.. I think there are the 'sleeper' guys who go for the "what mods does it have officer.. it's just stock" look.. Dahtone was gonna be my example.. Looks great..

+1 thats me..

althought i've been pulled over once 'randomly'.. its a wagon FFS

Ricer, by definition of the typical owner, requires the vehicle be fitted with:

-Pod filter, not mounted or enclosed

-Fluro green ICE 16mm ignition leads, stock coil lead

-Anodised oil filler cap

-At least 2 cable ties without the ends cut-off

-At least 1 engine component that has been sprayed with trevs "metallic" paint without cleaning or removing said component from the engine bay

-Stickers on the radiator support to advertise said Anodised filler cap

Optional accessories:

-A bottle of "NOS" fuel additive kept in the engine bay for your next top-up

-Un-fused see-through-red 4ga wire running from the battery through a hole cut in the firewall with a butter-knife

Ricer, by definition of the typical owner, requires the vehicle be fitted with:

-Pod filter, not mounted or enclosed

-Fluro green ICE 16mm ignition leads, stock coil lead

-Anodised oil filler cap

-At least 2 cable ties without the ends cut-off

-At least 1 engine component that has been sprayed with trevs "metallic" paint without cleaning or removing said component from the engine bay

-Stickers on the radiator support to advertise said Anodised filler cap

Optional accessories:

-A bottle of "NOS" fuel additive kept in the engine bay for your next top-up

-Un-fused see-through-red 4ga wire running from the battery through a hole cut in the firewall with a butter-knife

dont forget.

a vacuum hose which is bright red leading through that same hole cut in the firewall to a boost gage. even though its an excel.

dont forget.

a vacuum hose which is bright red leading through that same hole cut in the firewall to a boost gage. even though its an excel.

LOL, but even N/A's need their vacuum pressure monitoring right?

BTW I think you're lying and have never seen that. ;)

Pics or not true.

LOL, but even N/A's need their vacuum pressure monitoring right?

BTW I think you're lying and have never seen that. ;)

Pics or not true.

no lol this was me when i first got my NA supra at the age of 17.

i had to do something and it was the only thing i knew how to do..except i didnt know you could get a vacuum gage.

atleast im in admittace . and have grown up since then.

but since you asked..

breewwww

dscf1598.jpg

Edited by AaronNM35

DSC03396.jpg

31198131154058396010939.jpg

not a ricer, but thats the only type of engine bay i can think of that looks daaamn clean

Not a big fan of 'dubber' engine bays. I mean they look good but it's all smoke and mirrors with the wires and everything tucked out of view. Actually working on the car and troubleshooting would be a bitch and so for me it's the ultimate 'show' look. Real cars otoh are made to be USED.

Clean and tidy engine bays isn't RICE.

To me, R.I.C.E. stands for Race Inspired Cosmetic Enhancements..

So things like, pod filters, big gay atmo bov's, coil covers with stupid logos/designs, painting everything up when it's all stock componentry etc.

I think R.I.C.E. is more generally found on the outside of a vehicle.. bigass wings, shopping lists, 6" cannons on 2" pipes, neons, graphics etc.

  • 2 weeks later...

rice engine bay = you pop the bonnet and every single thing screams "look at me!!!" whether it is a performance mod or something normal made to look like it is a performance mod, such as an anodised oil filler cap. basically when standard items have been replaced with something brightly coloured for no apparent reason

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...