Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, ok so i bought an R31 with decent power, box is screwed but ive just bought a new one and the clutch is slipping so im thinking ill change that at the same time. what clutch should i get?

I need one to handle 300rwkw or close to just wanted to know my options. thanks guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353237-300rwkw-clutch/
Share on other sites

I have searched and it seems jim berry is the best for track and there isnt much more about clutch options, im asking what people have used that works well on the street because im not going to be putting 300kw thru it for long periods of time ( only now and then ) and im not planning on dumping the clutch at 7000rpm, i just want to know if someone is in the same position as me and what they have used that worked

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353237-300rwkw-clutch/#findComment-5660880
Share on other sites

jims a great guy to deal with, but hes sooo over priced

i got a modded exedy 5 puk from a guy in sydney (Parramatta?) 4000ish pound clamp load with carbonic pads/puks.

Jim quoted around $7-900, the other guy (who i would of sworn was jims long lost brother, really nice) was $360 including shipping to act.

so far good for 285kw and 700ish nm's

if you want ill track down where/who it is.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353237-300rwkw-clutch/#findComment-5661846
Share on other sites

wow ok, i really dont have 2200 to spend on a clutch right now as im still spending money ironing the bugs out of this engine, ( one day ill put it in a 32 with a 25 head ), i got lucky and picked this car up with a fully forged and balanced bottom end for 3k. i use this car as a daily for now and sounds like the guy from sydney is my best option. when i get abit more serious with it and track it ill go for the better clutch. could you pm me the number so i can call and get one sent to me? cheers :thumbsup:

Edited by mungy
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353237-300rwkw-clutch/#findComment-5661921
Share on other sites

i run an exedy HHHDBC with 325rwkw

not the best for a daily, but grips up hard and fast on track, i'm absolutely in love with it. well under a grand.

jim berry's are nice... but my legs are nicer ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353237-300rwkw-clutch/#findComment-5662364
Share on other sites

for anyone else interested -

K B Clutch Engineering

143 Coreen Ave, Penrith, NSW 2750

Outer West Sydney, Western Sydney

p: 02 47321692

Speak to Keith, he's the man. really top guy to deal with.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353237-300rwkw-clutch/#findComment-5667271
Share on other sites

I've just heard more bad things then good things lately about Jim berry clutches. There's a thread from not long ago where one of his clutches welded itself to the flywheel. Apparently it's not the first time this has happened

Nismo twin plates are great, but if it's out of your price range I highly recoend NPC. After having an NPC I wouldnt recommend anything else. It grips hard and is quite soft for what it is. They are quite reasonably priced to

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353237-300rwkw-clutch/#findComment-5669329
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

i run an exedy HHHDBC with 325rwkw

not the best for a daily, but grips up hard and fast on track, i'm absolutely in love with it. well under a grand.

jim berry's are nice... but my legs are nicer ;)

hey where do you get the TRIPLE HDB, i have talked to atap ( clutch supplier for my work ) and then exedy all they have is "NSK 7056HDB" which is rated to 330rwkw and is bout $600 without trade discount. is that the one your talking bout.

the description is on their website and. i am just interested as i am going to buy one but says nothing bout HHHDBC

Size, Spline OD & No. of Teeth

240 x 25.5 x 24

Flywheel Profile

Flat

Additional parts - not included in kit

Alignment Tool

DCT-01

Spigot Bearing

PB-22

HDB.jpg

The Heavy Duty Button (HDB suffix) clutch kits are manufactured to meet the demands of various forms of amateur drift, circuit, rally and drag racing and are assembled from 100% new component parts. All HDB kits are supplied with high clamp load clutch cover assemblies and ceramic button clutch discs with sprung dampers.

Edited by PaulosECR33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353237-300rwkw-clutch/#findComment-5684232
Share on other sites

NPC FTW..they build to your desired specs and ships straight to your door (or the mechanic in my case)

super easy to drive and bites hard every time. when it burns out, you can send it back to them to get rebuilt with new clutch plate etc

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/353237-300rwkw-clutch/#findComment-5684984
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
    • What ECU are you running? This is probably the biggest question. If it's a PowerFC, I'd probably change the ECU and get something newer that will handle the injectors in a nicer way.
×
×
  • Create New...