Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

phew ..... lucky outcome actually. Surprised valves didnt smash themselves to pieces.

glad you got out of it in the end.

Question : how many kms has the car done? was the stuffed belt in bad/worn condition or was it the bearings fault?

AFAIK the prob was a seized bearing in the idler pulley. From what I saw, the inlet side has hopped six teeth, the exhaust side only one tooth. A new belt was fitted and the car started OK and was driven out to be fixed tomorrow when the new kit arrives. It is all very perplexing caus all the other threads I have read on this subject have reported severe internal bleeding. It must be remembered that the T/B did not break. It was partially laminated. I can only surmise that the ecu detected an abnormality in the "what?", and went into limp before any serious damage occurred.

Thank you Mr. Nissan.

I am off to the Newsagent tomorrow to get that winning ticket. Thanks Duncan. :thanks:

phew ..... lucky outcome actually. Surprised valves didnt smash themselves to pieces.

glad you got out of it in the end.

Question : how many kms has the car done? was the stuffed belt in bad/worn condition or was it the bearings fault?

[/quote

The belt had been replaced at 105ks. Was a Gates. The belt was OK on the tooth side. The outside was laminated due to the seized bearing in the idler pulley.

Moral: When replacing the belt, replace the pulleys.

ahh there you go :D moving a few teeth is totally different to snapping entirely where the crank and valves can move independantly.

SR cams or not, surely the de motors have higher compression and therefore pistons protrude further into the valve area?

And yes.....always replace the idler and tensioner! This is far from the only motor this has happened to over the years :( Also, importantly, replace the stud that the tensioner attaches to, and the bolt that the idler uses, they can also break, particularly if poorly tensioned at some time in their history

phew ..... lucky outcome actually. Surprised valves didnt smash themselves to pieces.

glad you got out of it in the end.

Question : how many kms has the car done? was the stuffed belt in bad/worn condition or was it the bearings fault?

its always advised to do the tentioners when u do ur timing belt so what happend dosent most people are to cheep but it certainly pays off

having bearings, belts etc being replaced on the rb26 atm - track duties 3x per year only but no point playing Russian roulette

then again, also replacing rod bearings at same time, crankshaft being machined, oil return system, etc :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Shouldn't need a "base map" for anything other than guidance to ignition tuning. You just need the engine capacity right, the injector size right, and something, almost anything, for a VE map. On an NA engine, fuelling is almost completely a function of load signal & rpm. It should run and drive with a completely flat fuel map. It will be too lean under load, but that's easily fixed. We used to tune all ECUs without any base map. There were no such things (until someone had tuned a near stock engine on one, and then they had a "base map".
    • What did you actually buy/how much did it cost? When I got mine in like.. 2017...? 2019? the aim was to run Torque for gauges via ODB2 and things like Track Addict/Laptimers/Dashcam/Reversecam/Spotify etc. Mine never broke, but I wonder if you've got the same needs (it sounds like it). Cause I liked the idea of being able to do anything with it. That said, yours also cost 3x the cost of what I spent so... food for thought.  
    • For me there is a massive difference in manufacturer or big brand crippled android (Sony, Kenwood etc) vs the sort of thing I've installed here, which is basically just a tablet in DIN form factor with open Android, and the other model of course is mirroring - Android Auto/Carplay. I hate the locked down manufacturer and AA options where they decide what apps I'm allowed to install, including the Launcher but also importantly things like Ecutek (for this car) or Real Dash (Stagea) are not supported. Plus those crippled versions tend to be slower due to both overheads and lower spec hardware. On the other hand, when this breaks I'll likely be in trouble for support....but how is that different to owning an Infiniti anyway
    • Yeah, Duncan is helping sell me back to Android devices. I've hated the whole Android head units due to their speed issues. Even in my old Hyundai Kona (2022 model), it behind the scenes was Android, and slow and shitty to start up. Once running wasn't bad, but still a good 15 to 30 seconds.
    • My roof rails are off atm on the E39 until the rust is fixed. I did find another little bit of surface rust under the rails when I took them off. As @soviet_merlin said I'd just leave them alone unless you're planning on ensuring they're properly sealed. I was on the fence about leaving them off as the delete is still a thing in BMW E39's but I feel like the car is missing something (er, it is, der) with them off and I'm looking forward to putting them back on.
×
×
  • Create New...