Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok Guys,

I've set aside $750 to outfit my GT-R as it currently doesn't have a system.

Would like a Sub and four speakers to fit completely within the factory apertures plus all the other odds and ends you usually need.

Currently Have a clarion amp and a headunit so they are not included in the pricing, nor is labor.

Who can spec up a decent system for that ?

Edited by Nee-san
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354030-audio-setup/
Share on other sites

i guess the answer to this could vary extremely from person to person. i run 6" R type alpine splits in the front off a good amp and i love em. in the rear i run 6 speakers now but i used to run a pair of good 4 1/2" splits and was good. i like top end quality in the front and mid range is adequate in the rear. is your current amp 2 or 4 channel? i tried 3 different type of lanzar subs and some soundstream subs before switching to my current R type subs. none of the subs lasted for a few different reasons but the current subs are indestructible and pack a punch.

a good box is a good investment and can make an average sub 100% better.

i dont really know costs as i havent had to buy anything 4 a while but think the R type splits are around 250-280. which would leave 500 to cover sub/box and an amp(2or 4 channel depending on what you already have) i know my local cash convertors never has less than 20 different amps and half dozen subs and i think hey have warranty if you wanted to go down that path.but they might only give warranty if you paid someone to fit it...

Trev

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354030-audio-setup/#findComment-5672284
Share on other sites

My car has not alot of sound deadening in it and it is very loud so I'm not sure uber good stuff will make a difference, I thought 750 for 4 speakers and a Sub was ok, should I spend more ?

Does it depend on what I listen to ?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354030-audio-setup/#findComment-5674452
Share on other sites

I'm not talking uber stuff, just decent tunes

the louder your car the less you can hear the music. the more power it takes from the amp, which fries cheap speakers. or destroys your ears with distortion. and makes you sterile ? ok maybe not sterile but close

a decent cheap amp, and sub with generic box, 300-400 at least

two pairs of decent speakers. 200

cables- 50-100

install ????

misc parts?

do you see where Im going ?? . save a few hundred more then go shopping you will be much happier in the long run.

there is cheap,and then there is shite. go with cheap not shite.

you wouldn't want shite in a GTR. it smells ??? lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354030-audio-setup/#findComment-5675216
Share on other sites

I went for Fusion splits for fronts and 6 x 9 for rears.

Great power handling, and accuracy.

I have some HD cd sources which my head unit supports, and the reproduction is brilliant.

Considering Fusion aren't really considered high end, I'd put them there.

You need to demo them with a good source and a decent amp.

What to get for your money is amazing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354030-audio-setup/#findComment-5675743
Share on other sites

chris beat me to it, but maybe a setup of splits from Blaupunkt from chris ? , they had some in the 99 buck range that rated well in INCAR Entertainment mag last year I think

every major company has speakers etc that can fit the price point of 100 a pair, that will be 1000% better then factory

between 750-1k you should be able to get something to make you happy, and don't forget to ask for a better price from anyone you buy from. or a trader in SAU.?

I can recommend Chris , we have the same high demands for quality installs...lol

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354030-audio-setup/#findComment-5685388
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

i cant beleave someone said fusion lol lol, no dont buy them....ok kicker, alpine, infinity, eclipse, focal, maybe pioneer....750 would get good splits in front off amp and sub back.....if i was u and its a 2 door spend more money on ur front speakers where it matters

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354030-audio-setup/#findComment-5700610
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes to both! Yes to standard ECU and tune, but exhaust is aftermarket. Unsure on brand. Actually have it sitting in at my desk haha! I have to set it up on my laptop but this is a great next step, will do. So I generally try to shift before 4.5K RPM most times. I largely don't do a lot of high-rev driving, but I will take it up to red 1-2x a week max, as I know the occasional "Italian tune-up" is good for these cars.  Oh wow, is this way better than what I'm getting. Does this mean there's a good chance I have an issue?   Thanks for all the info so far guys.
    • Old Son, did you re-use the Holden ABS in the new shell or try a different module?
    • Yeah, nah. I had the actuator rod off it today. The arm will not move at all. Neither out, nor in. Yeah, you'd think so, but I've been thinking about that. Even when the actuator rod fell all the way off at the beginning of this saga, it would build more boost and faster in lower gears than it would in higher gears, and you'd think that that was the opposite of what should happen. But I strongly suspect that there is a thing with the gearing getting the revs to rise faster, that there must be some transient effect with the gas flow rate rising quickly, that you don't get with the more steady state case of the higher gears. Keep in mind - the gate is not shut in either of my weirdnesses. So things are not "normal". We normally think about a turbo spooling up (below the wastegate target) with the gate shut. I have all sorts of mental models running now where the gate is a little bit open, and having it stuck open allowing gas out while it should be going through the turbine has all sorts of weird effects (in these mental models). I'm thinking in the higher gears, the ex mani pressure builds to the point where enough gases spill out the wastegate to just prevent the pressure rising much more at all, or just creeping up, all the whole the revs are increasing and getting closer to the point where a gear shift becomes necessary.
    • Is it possibly wastegate actuator itself is sticking, or even the rod to flapper? Otherwise I reckon things are getting a bit rusty/worn   Also odd it won't boost in 3rd to 5th, but will in 1st, I'd expect the other way around with it slightly open as there's more time on your way to redline for it to spin up
×
×
  • Create New...