Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R31 s3 sillo rb20det street slider

ok so i bought this car last year and its sat in my shed since dec 09.

i stripped alot of the car and started to make a track car from out of it but decided to sell and get back into a 32 4dr.

alot of you do know this car and yes i bought it off damo.

1989 R31 Silhouette Series 3

RB20det w rb20 box (has been through Regency and registered with the new engine)

Has upgraded brakes, not sure what model, i assume R32.

Chassis 370000ks+

Engine 50000ks???

Alloy rad so im told but think its r32

FMIC with custom polished stainless pipework

Aftermarket Turbosmart? blow off valve, plumbed in properly, not installed but now has mad flutters

Battery relocated to boot

remapped RB20 ecu by Decs at Garage 7 (nov 2010)

RB20 turbo

Bucket seat on r31 rails (not installed but can do for buyer)

have 4 diff full sets of rims. (17s, s13 15s, 180sx 15s and also have some 14s it came with)

also spare 17 inch tires

Pioneer CD/mp3 player (Dolphin style with graphics etc), pioneer front splits and pioneer rear 2 way speakers

Aftermarket Guages (volts, oil pressure, water temp, boost)

tacho with shift light

3" turbo back exhuast (can install screamer) with decat pipe for the occassional set of flames .

Diff has 4.11s with mini spool and still retains 28 spline axels for strength

vp rear calipers

hydro handbrake supplied and installed by Decs at Garage 7

t piece set at 12psi

rack spacers for extra angle lock

has jaycar ebc installed but not used

brand new walbro fuel pump Hard wired for max effect.

various kill switches

catch can

thats all i can think of atm but prob more.

does not come with sneaky plates

pics will come when i get energy to wash car and get work shit out of it as i am using it as a daily

he he daily 31 sillo rb20det. love it

asking 6.5kono fairly urgent sale so make an offer

no test pilots as i wont be letting you drive unless you have placed 1k deposit in my hand.

ITEM AND CONDITION:

Yamaha yz250f 2006

Very good condition (sold in 2007)

FMF Q4 muffler - sounds awesome

Suspension set up by Hoey suspension

White plastics with One Industries graphics and gripper seat

Zeta leavers

DID chain, Talon sprocket

New Bridgestone rear tyre with HD 4mm tube.

New brake pads, headstem bearings

Fresh oil + oil filter

Pro Taper bars and Excel rims- come standard

New Tag grips

New fork seals and fork oil

+Blue plastics with One Industries graphics and seat cover, frame guards, side stand, helmet, goggles.

Oil filter cleaned and oiled after ever ride

Fresh oil and oil filter after every 5 hours

Bike washed after every ride

PRICE, PAYMENT METHODS AND TERMS OF SALE:

$5,200

REASON FOR SELLING:

Wanting a 2010 model.

LOCATION AND CONTACT DETAILS:

Adelaide Hills

0423529020

PM me

PICTURES:

img0081hd.jpg

img0093rw.jpg

img0080ge.jpg

SO MY MATE HAS THIS HI FLOWED TURBO FOR SALE

R34 neo, OP6 rear housing

500HP high flowed Turbo!

perfect conditions no play, no smoke....still on the car will be taken off once i have a deposit

done 9000mkms since rebuild selling due to upgrading to external gated turbo!

has 300rwkw potential http://www.digi-hardware.com/rb25t3hiflow.html

and the good thing is that it will pass regency every time.

chasing $750 feel freeto make a offer TEXT or CALL 0423412092 LOCATED IN GILLIS PLAINS

Work vxss

4 stud

17x7 +36 front 80% wanlis

17x8 +32 rears 80% zeetex

Willing to sell in pairs

front $200

rears $300

or buy the set $450

willing also to swap a pair for 4stud stockys and some cash

SMS me on 0421754575

price drop on wheels+ 2 sets tires $1300 after a quick painless sale

bosch 044 brand new in box down to $170 very well priced !

r33/s14/s15 whiteline rear camber arms $100

full set sumimoto gtr calipers and ebc red pads(worn) ebc rotors $600

added. 5 4wd rims + tires bf goodrich muddies not much meat left $150 the lot

gtr aircon compressor $50 aircon rad $50 pipes $20 or the lot for $100

0423776884 contact number

post-27156-1289719384_thumb.jpg

post-27156-1289719405_thumb.jpg

post-27156-1289719421_thumb.jpg

post-27156-1289719486_thumb.jpg

added. 5 4wd rims + tires bf goodrich muddies not much meat left $150 the lot

gtr aircon compressor $50 aircon rad $50 pipes $20 or the lot for $100

0423776884 contact number

What sort of semi slicks are they mate?? also what size??

added. 5 4wd rims + tires bf goodrich muddies not much meat left $150 the lot

gtr aircon compressor $50 aircon rad $50 pipes $20 or the lot for $100

0423776884 contact number

Ill take the air con rad if its the same as the 33. Can you post a photo thanks

Not car related but what the hell

guitar gear

vox ac15 cc1

15amp,wharfdale custom speaker (12inch I think) twin valve

sounds mental,true old school rock and roll amp

bought 12months ago,WAY too loud to play with the baby in the house so it's got to go

rrp $1199 which is what I paid and it's in perfect condition

never cranked,I can't get far enough away from it with my hollow body epiphone,feedback city!!!

sell for $650 Ono

various pedals

boss comp/sustainer (old and beaten up,still functions properly) $50

boss ds1 distortion $60

Marshall bluesbreaker (pretty rare now) $90

ibanez tubescreamer ts9 basically brand new in box paid $230 sell $130

yahama bass,solid, good sounds $100

prices Ono,not happy with price make an offer

for sale KX250f 07

everything possible to replace has been, spent huge amounts of money , have stuffed my knee and cant ride :D

4 rides since rebuild with cp forged piston with hotrod crank, all bearing ect, boysen quick shot 2, all carby mods, full aftermarket exhaust, comes with spare engine (needing rebuild) new chain and strocket and all new rear shocker fronts where rebuilt two rides ago, black powder coated rims and much more

$5200

msg/call me on 0431069892

post-52039-1289806687_thumb.jpg

Edited by r33 chris

r34 2dr petrol tank, heatshield/sound dead'ner shield exc pump $60 ono

door rubbers both sides i think from memory $70 ono

door frame mouldings-black (holds door rubbers) pair but LHS is damaged slightly, 2 pieces per side $50 ono

door handles (2dr) outer inc locks (both black i think, maybe one is white?? will check)

r34 2dr rear child seat restraint bars/mounts (added usually for ADR's/dotars) $50 ono

under steering column dash plastic, inc tract control switch, good coin tray, ie pins not broken, but its missing the lil white thing (one off your existing one will complete) $80

rear 1/4 glass from 2dr GTT tinted as std UV-cut etc, good cond $100 ono

R34 gtt ABS unit from under the bonnet, $180 ono

complete rear interior plastic trim panels ok-good cond. $75

rear seat back $20

RH door trim/card, not 100% has crack in red lense $30

sill scuff covers 'SKYLINE' 2dr r34 $45 ono

wiring loom sections advise areas you need.

plenty more to dig out and post.

Pics sent upon request, ie too many for the poor bastards with dialup

nat0

post or pm me

Edited by nat0z

ive got about 4sq metres of charcoal coloured pavers. They the left overs from my place

if anyones keen let me know and ill measure em up and/or take pics and count how many there are etc. they from tudor paving if you need more aswell

say $25 for the lot just want em gone and a lil pocket money

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...