Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Want gone asap. So

GTR valley cover for sale. I have no use for it. - $60.

04022011002.th.jpg

And mint black R33 S1 grill. All clips mint, paint is immaculate and has chrome S on it. - $50

04022011.th.jpg

04022011001.th.jpg

I am willing to post interstate at buyers expense. Contact via PM or 0420 438 536. Located in SA northern suburbs.

Hey guys....

Got a 360mm Nardi wheel for sale & a sparco quick release kit

The nardi wheel is a bit rough and worn but still structurally fine just needs to be rebound in leather/suede (whatever your style) and I was quoted less then $100 to do so?

Quick release kit working fine, perfect condition no issues what so ever.

Pictures are as below.

PICK UP ONLY

Throw me an offer

$200

0433830055

First with cash and at my front door will get it

Cheers,

Wayne.

post-53526-0-62127500-1296983893_thumb.jpg

post-53526-0-06229800-1296983957_thumb.jpg

post-53526-0-78623000-1296983974_thumb.jpg

1-Full set of Pia rozza rims 5x114.3

Front 17x8+35 with bridgestone er3000 215 45 17 approximately 60% tread

Rears 17x9+38 with crappy 235 45 17 tyres

Being second hand rims they have some gutter rash

$500

2-Pair of SSR Integral A1

5x114.3

16x7+44

no tyres

$100

3-Pair of wantanbe style rims

15x8

5x114.3

with a pair of brand new yokohama 225 50 15

$250

Located around Pt Adelaide.

Contact by PM

post-63640-0-83240900-1296984158_thumb.jpg

post-63640-0-28049000-1296984461_thumb.jpg

post-63640-0-37621900-1296984516_thumb.jpg

post-63640-0-57532300-1296984559_thumb.jpg

Back up for sale. Buyer pulled out.

Apexi N1 dual exhaust, catback to suit R33 GTR and GTST.

Asking $500.00

post-74571-0-58335300-1296107926_thumb.jpg

post-74571-0-02508800-1296107982_thumb.jpg

for photos

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/143697-for-sale/page__view__findpost__p__5643913

Edited by Fantm1

s13 sr20 turbo gear box with shifter $350

s13 sr20 manual tail shaft $70

s13 non hicas cradle (bare) $50

s13 koni rear shocks $50 pair (look standard height)

s13 sr turbo diff $80

sr20 radiator $70

s13 side mirrors $30 each

s13 black passenger door $60 complete

s13 sr20 red top ecu $80

s13 sr20 red top engine loom $60 (plug cut off to join sr to ca)

180 HEADLIGHTS WITH VENT $100

180 stock tail lights including center $50

s14 non air bag dash $60

s14 cluster $40

s14 door trims $25 each

s14 diff $80

s15 rear c west rear flairs $50....http://nissansilvia.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=472048&st=0&p=6037577&fromsearch=1entry6037577

s15 power fc from jdm spec r $700...

s15 stock spark plug cover $25

s15 jdm s bonnet badge x2 $15 each

s15 spec r badges $15 each

s15 front calipers and slotted disks $200

s15 rear brakes $150..

s15 power steering rack...$120

s15 brakes...anything you need for 5 stud convo including booster $700

s15 manual conversion gearbox, tail shaft, interior surround, clutch and brake peddles, clutch cylinder with all lines $800

S15 SIDE MIRRORS PEWTER $45 EACH

s15 fuel tank $50

s15 doors complete..$150 each

s15 lock kit...ignition doors, boot $150...only one key

s15 adm 260km cluster 80 XXXkms $180

s15 cross member $60

s15 jdm stock tail lights $100

s15 adm stock tail lights $100

s15 black boot lid with gt wing $250

s15 complete dash with cluster $450

s15 center console $100

s15 door cards/trims $100 pair

s15 adm stock window drake light $40

s15 bare shell (fire wall back) excellent for fixing a smashed car perfect condition ....offer?

s15 adm rear window $100

s15 stock exhaust (front pipe back) $150

s15 abs thingy? $40

s15 adm rear bar (scratched up) $60

s15 seat belts $20 each

s15 adm parcel shelf with speaker grills $40

s15 rear cradle

r32 center dash vents $30

r32 doors $100 pair or $60 each complete with glass

32 gtr front reo $100

32 gtr resistor pack $60

32 gtr complete cradle minus sway bar $450 or will separate diff, arms, brakes etc...

32 gtr fuel pump in cradle $80..

32 gtr complete brakes... whatever you need $400 (non brembo) disks need machining.

32 gtr front guards $250....one has slight dent

32 gtr headlights (mint) PROJECTOR $250 PAIR

32 gtr front indicators $60

32 gtr rear shocks $80

32 gtr radiator $80

32 gtr cross member with all arms...

32 gtr power steering pump $50

32 gtr twin blow of valves $100 THE PAIR

32 gtr alternator $50

32 gtr air con condenser $100

32 gtr clutch fan $50

32 gtr condenser fan $50

32 gtr brake booster $80

32 gtr steering rack $100

rb25 stock plenum $50

Nissan Silvia S13

RB20DET Engine

Manual Turbo

Factory Blue

Alarm + Central Locking

Engine/Gearbox/Power:

Low km RB20 engine

Forward Facing Plenum

VG30 Turbo

FMIC

Alloy Catch Can

Polished Engine Valley Cover

RB20 Gearbox

Heavy Duty Clutch

Electric Thermo Fans

Big 4 core VLT radiator

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump

3 inch turbo back exhaust, high flow metal cat, has one middle muffler, finishing of with a single straight pipe

Suspension:

Coilovers all round

5 stud conversion

R33 turbo front brakes

S15 rear brakes

5 bolt drive shafts

Alloy cradle bushes

Alloy steering spacer

GTR rear swaybar

NON Hicas

NON ABS

Exterior:

17” Meshie Wheels, 17X9 all round

R32 GTS-t Rear Spoiler

Interior:

Dish sports wheel

R33 Front Seats

150mm “dildo” gearknob

Boost Gauge

Turbo Timer

Condition:

Car drives really well its got the power, suspension, brakes and cooling setup to make a good reliable package.

Paint is in fairly good condition, but does have a dent in drivers guard, not really that noticeable. Also have a few paint chips. Interior is good, but dash has cracks in it.

Bad points:

Speedo is not connected, Garage 7 can fix this. Tacho and all other gauges working 100%

Car drives well and has rego till mid March 2011.

Will consider swaps for cheaper car + cash or a new project car

$7,900 or cheaper without wheels

Contact: 0402 902 759

imgp14411.jpg

imgp14751.jpg

imgp14831.jpg

hi all

i have a buyer for my 32 gtr seats in syd. but cbf really with postage..

if anyone wants to grab these this week come on down. no holds, deposits, promises n shit...

$550 FIRM

imaculate, NO rips, NO ware, NO marks, Nothing!

with rails, no seatbelt buckles as you will need to use urs...

dont have pics but can mms them if you txt me on 0400099986

i wont check here again so msg me!

thanx!

hey up for grabs is my rb26. follow the link to the ad, its got no reserve price on it but for the sake of forum rules lets say $1

located SA pickup only or organise ur own freight

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/RB26-R32-LONG-MOTOR-ENGINE-RB26-RB30-NO-RESERVE-/120678675102?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1c1902729e

Alpine 700w mono block amp. all in great nic $150 $120

Thule Roof rack suit Nissan coupe. designed for 300zx but thule claim it will fit most imports( email says s13 14 15 r32, 33 and maybe 34)...tryed it on my 33, not usdm enough $150 $100

r33 rear calipers,pads and rotors, only removed for brembos $150

generic square sized front mount, 300 x 300 x 76mm (2.5" Outlets) $50

3x r33 s2 foglight set ups, L & R black ones, and a passenger side white side $50 each

r33 s2 interior (seats f & R), front door trims and rear cards (drivers side has small wear $200 $150 for the rest

r33 stock wheels and tyres, tyres near new $250 $200

r33 stock suspension, great nic $150

located north eastern suburbs, PM or post here if you need the pics. look under my posts to find them

R32 GTR & Gts-t (I think) Whiteline front Strut Brace,

Average condition, scratches etc - $100

Whiteline Strut Brace

BenQ FP222W 22in LCD Monitor,

1680*1050 Resolution, 5ms response - $60

BenQ FP222W LCD

Located Victor Harbor,

Will be at SMASA show this weekend and All Jap Day so can organise drop off.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...