Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Delete if not allowed.

I am getting rid of all my skyline bits and pieces as I sadly no longer have the car anymore.

All parts are in South Australia! All will be in Adelaide on Monday.

Open to reasonable offers. Want it all gone by Tuesday as its taking up too much space.

Contact be on 0438219731

1. Genuine 3 gauge cluster cover from a 2001 R34. Has no damage and has screws.

2. Genuine R34 tail lights. Come out of a 1999 NA. They have no damage and no scratches to the lenses.

3. R34 S-Tune spoiler mounts. They come with fibre-glass covers. All bolts included.

4. A passenger Xenon Headlight for an R34. Does have damage to the glass. Good for parts or a repair. Come out of a 2000 R34 GTT

5. A driver Xenon Headlight. NO DAMAGE. Missing 1 top mount tab but that is common. Come out of a 2000 R34 GTT.

6. A top secret front bar. Bought from Just Jap Auto Imports. Started to be sanded but was never fitted to a car. Comes with mesh.

7. R34 Altia Fiberglass side skirts. Where test fitted and painted silver but never used. Fits on 2 doors R34s GT and GTT. Made by Phat Body kits in Melbourne.

8. R34 Altia Fiberglass back bumper bar. Never been fitted or painted. Fits on 2 and 4 doors R34s GT and GTT. Made by Phat Body kits in Melbourne.

95 R33 GTST


the mods on the car:
front strut brace
full bomex bodykit
Viper alarm system
dash surround is painted the same colour as the outside
adjustable camber kit
3"cat back exhaust
splitfire coil packs
front mount intercooler
hicas lock bar
exeedy 6 puk button clutch
legal lowered springs
A pillar twin guage cluster with autometer boost and A/F ratio guages
Greddy turbo timer
Exhaust silencer
sard fuel pressure reg
apexi pod filter

has new tyres all round
timing belt and major service done at 110xxx
the seats have no tears or rips

the bad points:
the front bar needs some work
the roof at the back has a small dent
the front left guard needs rolling
the synchros are wearing in 3rd and 4th


if you have any questions, feel free to ask.
$6,500 ONO - all reasonable offers considered

call or txt - 0434577459

post-57938-0-01025300-1381109600_thumb.jpg

Just letting you know, you have until tonight to throw me an offer on my SPARCO RACE SUIT otherwise once its on eBay there will be no buy it now and happy bidding.

Can MMS photos, 0433 eight three zero 055

Have a set of 17x8.5 & 17x9.5 on the inside of the rim it says 'off 33' no idea on what make came on the car when i first got it, tires are shagged on the rear fronts are thrashed with camber wear. some rims have more gutter rash than others, guess they just liked hitting those ones. been sitting in the shed taking up room was going to restore them sick of looking at them 300 ono wanna get rid of them rather soonish. shoot us a message if you want to snap them up 0435 938 997.

post-77089-0-39478500-1381485762_thumb.jpg

post-77089-0-49014300-1381485796_thumb.jpg

RB Ali radiator 60mm $100

R33 cat back exhaust , deletes cat and bolts to your front pipe. X force stainless exhaust one muffler, twin blast pipes in mild steel joined to it. $300 Ono

rb25 purple label afm $70

r33 adjustable front strut brace blue $80

rb25 ps pump $60

R33 manual cluster 120xxx $80

Pm for pics

PM sent

FS 1x single din foldout 7" touchscreen head unit

non brand name generic chinese head unit - but a relatively good one

-gps (igo map pre-loaded)

-bluetooth (incl music over bluetooth)

-mp3/dvd/mp4 playback (never used it but its there)

-analogue tv tuner built in (useless - can put a digital tuner on it however)

-reverse camera capable

-usual in and out video ports, remote control, etc

-usb and ipod connector (never used it)

-it even does am and fm radio - impress your friends!

Paid $400 at the start of the year, want $300 for it since its barely been used. Open to offers but lowballers need not waste my time.

Upgrading because I'm going 2 DIN fixed screen carpc - this unit works great and I've had no issues with it

-D

post-87614-0-14085100-1381891789_thumb.jpg

post-87614-0-65202700-1381891816_thumb.jpg
Anyone interested in a rolling shell?
Motor and box have been removed, may part with the gearbox, no defect but is unregistered.
Coils, hicas lock, pinapples in the rear, new tie rod ends, spare locked diff, 2 exhaust's inc front pipe, greedy cooler kit, deatchwerks in-tank fuel pump.. few other things
Pm me for more info, willing to swap for something of interest or sell

Edited by evers.

just cleaning out my shed found a few parts to suit an r32 gtst

rear seats from a series two..... the nice interior in great condition :) make any offer you want just want them out of my shed :)

full set of suspension in good condition to suit r32 gtst plus a spare pair stock shocks with lowered springs, make any offer you want just want it out of my shed :)

old momo steering wheel, make any offer just want it out of my shed :)

r33 diff centre pulled apart, take it away lol

if nobody takes this stuff im throwing it in a skip as my car was stolen a few years ago and this is just taking up space

0413329084 jason

Nissan 180sx 1994 5 speed manual sr20det blacktop

Second Australian owner

Lady owner

Always garaged

ENGINE

T28 Turbo

New turbo inlet gaskets

New extreme clutch 10, 000ks ago

Intercooler

Air pod

Alloy radiator catch can

Greddy emanage computer

Greddy profec B boost controller

New extreme clutch 10, 000ks ago

EXTERIOR

Custom purple paint job

Vertex full kit

Lipped rear gaurds

Origin rear lights

Raybig front lights

Clear side indicators

Cat back exhaust with dump pipe

17x8.5 all round with good tyres

Coilovers

All new brake pads

INTERIOR

Sports steering wheel

New black carpet

New black roof lining

All interior parts painted black with plastic and vinyl paint

S15 seats

Sony stereo with splits. 6 inch speakers and 6x9s

Plates not for sale with car. Standard SA plates are now on the vehicle.

How the car looks in the pictures is how it looks all the time. Ita my pride and joy. Regretful sale. Due to getting a family car.

No swaps No time waster. No low ballers

$10800

Reasonable offers considered

pics here http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Nissan-180SX-1994/SSE-AD-2319817/?Cr=5&sdmvc=1

R33 S2 GTST stock injectors. $100

RB25 exhaust manifold. $100

RB25 S2 afm. $80

Braided oil and water lines to suit rb turbo, banjo ends so they bolt straight up. Never used due to buying a TD06 20G. $120

Pm me if interested

Rb25det manual turbo ecu $80

R33 engine x member with engine mounts $30

r33 manual cluster 120xxx or something $50

r33/s14 stock wheels painted black $200 legal tread

RB front pipe $30

GFB atmospheric bov $70

R33 hicas unit with tie rod ends and that $30

Gktech oil filter relocation block $70 brand new

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...