R34 Gt-T

[Jeremy1607]

Hi,I have a 1998 Nissan Skyline R34 GT-T with automatic transmission.

It has podfilter,front mount intercooler and turbo running at 11PSI.It probably makes around 190kWs-200kWs at the wheels.

Just curious,how come I find it very hard to do wheel spin or burnout ? Say from a dead stop,I floor or push the accelerator all the way down and no wheel spin at all ?

Is it because of the traction control is on or not enough power to make the rear wheels spin ?

Thanks !

[89CAL]

Have you put it on a dyno? With a pod, exhaust, fmic, fuel pump, splitfires, 8psi mine only made 140rwkw. They hit r&r really bad when they see unexpected airflow (more boost)

It probably won't be making near 200rwkw without a tune.

What wheels/tyres are you running?

[jrm]

Traction control on my R34 makes it very difficult to get wheel spin unless you really try (and when you do, it immediately cuts the second butterfly and kills the fun). Have you tried turning it off?

As an aside, I'd also think your auto gearbox will make it more difficult to spin the wheels.

[baby34]

turn off traction control you idiot lmao.

[Jeremy1607]

Nope,haven't been to the dyno yet.Well,that's what the previous seller told me but anyways.

Yeah I did try turning off the traction control but still no luck.Maybe you're right the automatic gearbox isn't as responsive as a manual.

What do you mean by "they hit r and r really bad when they see unexpected airflow" ? I'm running the stock wheels,225/45 ZR17 for both front and rear.

How about you "jrm" ? Is your car manual or automatic too ? What do you mean "and when you do,it immediately cuts the second butterfly and kills the fun" ? Lol,sorry I don't get it.

[jrm]

Have you put it on a dyno? With a pod, exhaust, fmic, fuel pump, splitfires, 8psi mine only made 140rwkw. They hit r&r really bad when they see unexpected airflow (more boost)

It probably won't be making near 200rwkw without a tune.

What wheels/tyres are you running?

Nope,haven't been to the dyno yet.Well,that's what the previous seller told me but anyways.

Mine was making 182rwkw with just k&n panel filter, FMIC & 3" exhaust - running basically factory boost (up to 8psi dropping down by redline). I'm now running a 10psi actuator, nismo fuel pump, new spark plugs, new coilpacks - so I'd expect maybe 190rwkw - but I'll be getting it properly tuned soon. I've never heard of anyone breaking 200rwkw without a tune.

Yeah I did try turning off the traction control but still no luck.Maybe you're right the automatic gearbox isn't as responsive as a manual.

What do you mean by "they hit r and r really bad when they see unexpected airflow" ? I'm running the stock wheels,225/45 ZR17 for both front and rear.

How about you "jrm" ? Is your car manual or automatic too ? What do you mean "and when you do,it immediately cuts the second butterfly and kills the fun" ? Lol,sorry I don't get it.

I wouldn't even bother trying with the traction control on. To explain what I mean by my comment - the traction control on the R34 utilises two systems - one to cut spark, and the other has a second throttle butterfly that basically closes off (think how your accelerator pedal opens one butterfly - well this one sits in front of it - so no matter how hard you have your foot pressed down, TCS has shut you down).

My car is manual, but to further explain what I meant, if I were to be in a situation where I accelerated too quickly off the line in the dry, with traction control on - I'll get just a small hint of wheel spin before the traction control kicks in (closes that second butterfly) and stops my accelerator pedal being useful, cutting the boost off, and stopping that wheel spin (aka 'fun'). With traction control off, it'll wheel spin trivially with too much accelerator and traction control will not kick in.

You should be able to tell whether traction control is kicking in and stopping your fun - the 'SLIP' light in the dash will flash. Additionally, if TCS is off, the 'TCS' lamp should be lit in the dash.

And yes - it's possible that the ECU could be working in conjunction with the TCS system to make it even harder to wheel spin - BUT I havent driven or owned an R34 auto, so I can't comment here at all (I've never owned an auto, and will never own an auto..)

[89CAL]

Some skylines manage to get power, others don't.

R&R is rich and retard which is basically a safety mode to protect the engine when abnormal things happen (eg. More boost/airflow, knock)

When this happens your cars power will suffer.

[Plan-FAILURE]

Some skylines manage to get power, others don't.

R&R is rich and retard which is basically a safety mode to protect the engine when abnormal things happen (eg. More boost/airflow, knock)

When this happens your cars power will suffer.

This R&R you speak of...will an untuned car do it on a daily basis?

[Jeremy1607]

Sorry but what's R & R ?

[jrm]

This R&R you speak of...will an untuned car do it on a daily basis?

Sorry but what's R & R ?

R&R = Rich & Retard.

To explain:

'Rich' - enrichen the fuel mixture

'Retard' - retard the timing

R&R is a one ECU strategy to try and protect the engine, another is 'air flow cut'. To copy/paste from another thread:

1. Rich and retard is triggered by excessive cylinder knock only. When knock level threshold is exceeded the ECU richens AFR and retards igntion. Once R&R has been triggered the ECU then will attempt to reinstate AFR and ignition advance back to normal until it detects knock again. It is designed to protect engine against bad or incorrect fuel and internet mechanics.

2. Air flow cut is triggered when AFM voltage exceeding threshold voltage. Air flow cut starts at 4000rpm and threshold increases as a function of rpm up to about 5000 rpm. When it triggers, it cuts fuel and ignition...It is designed to protect against boost control failure...overboosting from broken WG actuator etc...also provides protection against internet mechanics...

I would judge in most situations with an untuned ECU and higher than factory boost you're more likely to be seeing 'air flow cut' than R&R. An untuned ECU will in with the airflow cut anytime it sees too much airflow - if you're running too much boost, then it could do this anytime it sees that too much boost. This could easily happen at more than 10-11psi, and possibly during cold weather even at those levels (where the air is more dense).

[Plan-FAILURE]

turn off traction control you idiot lmao.

LOL do you think he was actually that naive? Seems like he could have been

[Plan-FAILURE]

R&R = Rich & Retard.

To explain:

'Rich' - enrichen the fuel mixture

'Retard' - retard the timing

R&R is an ECU strategy to try and protect the engine in over-airflow situation; These situations would arise when you run too much boost for the factory ECU tuning to cope with - and it resorts into the protection mode. I've seen this on my R34 when I attempted to push more than 12psi - the car just feels like it stops, hits a brick wall, has no power at all - and then will pick up again a few seconds later when the airflow has dropped. There are plenty of threads with information on R&R - if you want to know more, I suggest you use the search function.

So yes - an untuned ECU will do this anytime it sees too much airflow - if you're running too much boost, then it could do this anytime it sees that too much boost - which may change depending on atmospheric conditions (think primarily hot/cold weather which change air flow situations)

Yeah ok so it's the same as engine breakdown when you max out your boost.

[Jeremy1607]

Anyways,doesn't car accelerates faster without wheel spin ? I mean if you have too much wheel spin in the beginning and lose traction,your car will accelerate slower due to the couple seconds

you lose at the start ?

[89CAL]

A little bit of wheelspin can be better off the line as opposed to bogging down, you don't want to be dropping the clutch at full revs and sitting on the spot throwing smoke everywhere but