Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 99
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

but you have NEVER seen it in action howcan you say it is not worth it?? what if you put it in and your car picks up .5 of a sec down the 1/4??? i know heaps of ppl that have spent alot more than that to make up simular resaults....

as i said ppl with ANY controller come try it out and compare

sewid...

"Gas filled what? A valve like this works using a spring and a diaphragm. Are you thinking we're all complete morons or something?"

No, do some homework, and then come install this in your car and call me an idiot if it goes the same...

This is coming from a guy that says "using gas ... keeps the temps cooler inside the valve"... Yeah you're a real expert. :rofl::P

No wonder this thing improved your performance, you were using a hairbrush as a bleed valve before.

If its not simply a spring/diaphragm device and actually uses gas, the gas sure isn't there for keeping the temperature down.

Dude you are an idiot.

Gas filled what? A valve like this works using a spring and a diaphragm. Are you thinking we're all complete morons or something?

"Gas keeps the temps inside the valve down"? Are you a complete imbecile and believe your own BS? What relevance does the temperature of a bleed valve have to anything.

Go and crawl back under the rock from whence you came little man.

Sewid you really need to do some research befor making comments like this....it may save you from presenting as a complete twit.

Ok,

At the end of the day, there just isnt enough facts supporting this 'very special boost controller'

This is a small world, and something thats this good would travell in no time, and a week after it came out, it would be used everywhere and be as common as a bogan in an old commonwhore.

Ive been into imports and turbos specifically for a few years now, i own one myself, know people that own turbos and have done a fair bit of work on turbos.. and i must say, in all that time ive never heard or seen of this 'very special boost controller'

Now if it came out as part of the Audi's or whatever, then surely major workshops etc would know about it, and be using it?

why arent they?

'Tis a scientific world we live in, without proof, im just not sold, sorry

the gas is used because when you push more power/boost air temp inside the turbo raise correct??? ok let go back to year 7 science.... what happens to air particals when they heat up.... thats right they expand (see where this is going here)... when it expands the air becomes thinner (looses viscosity) ...would i be correct in saying alot of boost controllers start slowly raising the boost (higher boost in taller gears sound familier???) now what if that air is cooled when comes into the valve .... shall i keep going????

reson for em not getting around yet is that they have been under developement for ages getting the porting gas type ect correct and consistant

Guest INASNT

when u raise the boost the boosted air isent going into the pressure pipe that controls the wastegate opening and closing. The amount of thermal transfer going from the turbo to the wastegate to the rubber hose to the boost controller is so minimal in a 1/4 run, the gas would not do shit to make u do any quicker 1/4 time.

listen. Can i get a accurate answer to this question. Will this super doopa pneamatic valve do a better job than my APexi AVCR?

Im using the apexi to limit wheelspin in 1st gear. That alone is reason enough to leave it there.

mx83toy whats your answer to that?

Sewid   you really need to do some research befor making comments like this....it may save you from presenting as a complete twit.

Huh?

I've pulled apart valves like this many times myself. im yet to see one that isnt built like that.

My guess is it would do just as good if not better than the Apexi in terms of control of the set boost. it does not have any of the extra functions of the electronic boosters except to control "how the boost comes on"

ps Hope to find out for myself towards the end of the month.

the gas is used because when you push more power/boost air temp inside the turbo raise correct??? ok let go back to year 7 science.... what happens to air particals when they heat up.... thats right they expand (see where this is going here)... when it expands the air becomes thinner (looses viscosity) ...would i be correct in saying alot of boost controllers start slowly raising the boost (higher boost in taller gears sound familier???) now what if that air is cooled when comes into the valve  ....   shall i keep going????

reson for em not getting around yet is that they have been under developement for ages getting the porting gas type ect correct and consistant

Look I admit i might be wrong about EVERY relief valve being built using springs/diaphragms because i cant say ive looked at lots of different valves from every manufacturer. I have looked at many and pulled them apart to find that mostly they look the same inside.

But your attempt at explaining why gas is used here is technically flawed and completely wrong.

1) This valve is small, it has no cooling mechanism (compressor, radiator, etc)

2) Cooling air quickly requires a lot of effort and a lot more hardware than this valve provides. This is what we all get bigger and better intercoolers for.

3) Whatever gas they put in this valve is not immune to the laws of thermodynamics.

4) Ergo the gas will heat up to ambient or higher temperature before the car even starts up. The gas will then reach the same temperature as the air passing thru the valve quite quickly.

Even if the gas is stored compressed it is not going to be any cooler than ambient temperature. Only the expansion of that gas will result in any cooling effect. Of course the expansion of the gas means the gas has to go somewhere, into the atmosphere probably? And if not into the atmosphere it will need to be recompressed to perform the useful cooling work again. I dont see a compressor attached to this very special boost controller.

look man i didnt invent the thing....to my understanding this is one of the functions of the gass.... i've gone alot faster with it compared to other controllers full stop. you want to try one out, cool come down,

you want to bag it out come up with something better yourself, and then prove its better else...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, I started this repair and got as far as "fixing" the holes with some fibreglass. God all those years working on boats came back quickly. I decided I'd reach out to some rust guys just to see what they would say about it. I came across a guy about 40 mins away and went to see him. He said the windscreen needs to come out, that there might be some more bits around the windscreen and he'd quote them at the time. But his quote was $300 to remove and replace windscreen and $3k for the damage he can see. He said he could respray the roof for $1200 and the bonnet for another $800 (somebody has previously rattle canned it, its horrendous). This is $5300 + any small additional bits. It's a lot, I get that and the name of one of my fave youtube channels 'Not Economically Viable' comes to mind.  I'm not being financially rational, but I've taken him up on the quote. He's opening a new shop in November with more room, so we're waiting for that. I'll leave the currently missing headliner out until then. I'm looking forward to it being fixed and having the paint looking nice again (lots of clear coat issues on the roof too). / flame suit on.
    • Oh and some up-and-comings; New rear drivers wheel bearing. I'll do that this weekend while the diff is out. The car is already up and the d/c axles and missing exhaust will help with space. This is the last bearing for me to do and I've been dragging my feet on it. I also have some new EBC blue stuff pads for the car and some new brake fluid. I haven't ever flushed the fluid in this car and looking forward to it. I have 600 degree fluid to put in. Not exactly "race fluid" but better than the typical stuff I have been using.
    • A proper clutch/plate type mechanical diff with quite a lot of pre-load and high locking % is better for drifting. Much more consistent in its behaviour. A helical can be annoyingly vague and inconsistent in how it responds under the sorts of abuse found in drifting.
    • Some updates here. I pulled the entire interior out, minus some trim to respray the seats with Colourlock dye. It turned out really nice though I accidentally let the dog in the car after and she scratched up the front seat.  This is what it looked like before, the colour was just washing out everywhere but thankfully the leather was in good nic. Then after the respray   And after the bloody dog jumped in The headliner is out waiting to be retrimmed, but it will stay out now until Nov - see why below. I replaced the stereo/headunit with a period-styled Android headunit. I have no after pics, but I'll get some. This is because of the missing pixels. I tried to fix this twice with replacement ribbon cables but couldn't. Also the bluetooth interface I'd bought for this was crap. Then there's the rusty roof. Pics and info in this other thread. I have decided to get this repaired professionally, but I'll update that thread. This is why the headliner will stay out for now. I'll be getting the roof and bonnet resprayed at the same time the rust is fixed. I also had an interesting issue with my drivers door lock.  For a small period I was having issues getting any 12v power to the car - I mean *any*. It would have no dash lights, nothing. It happened while I was at the shops and I couldn't get in the car. So, we had 2 problems. The most pressing here is that I was locked out. I have only a single physical key hole on the car, the drivers door and no amount of turning would unlock the car. Surely it doesn't need power for this? The second issue is why am I losing all power periodically, The battery isn't dead, its almost like the battery isn't even there. Two issues that were surprisingly easy to fix. You fellow BMW over-engineering lovers will appreciate this. The lock in the door has 5 states; mechanical lock, electric lock, neutral, electric unlock, mechanical unlock achieved at -90 degrees, -45 degrees, 0 degrees, 45 degrees and 90 degrees. Although, the unlock is towards the front of the car, so opposite for LHD countries. Sticking the key in and turning 45 left or right is what is used 99% of the time. It activates the central locking etc. 90 degrees is for dead battery access and, obvs, only un/locks the one door. But because the mechanical lock is never used and is 27 years old, it seizes up. I was totally unable to turn the key far enough to get to the mechanical unlock (At the time of locking myself out, I didn't even know this was a thing). I eventually did it with some vicegrips and teflon spray.  I made a quick vid for other E39 peeps.   The battery issue is totally new to me also - It wasn't making sufficient contact between the post and the terminal. The terminal was bolted on tight, but the car wouldn't have power. After checking the battery with my multimeter I accidentally contacted the terminal and the battery post and the car got power. The battery was only a few years old and in good condition. I cleaned the post and the terminal with a wire brush, bolted it back on tight and never had the issue again. I'm still surprised that despite having solid contact it didn't work. Also, the car was getting Warragamba sized pools of water in the back when it rained. My initial concern was another rust problem. But when I went out on Weds while it was raining and while I had no headliner in I could see a steady stream of water coming through the roof mounted aerial. As this aerial is for the (now removed) car phone I pulled it out and whacked a blanking grommet in the hole. It seems fine now. I'm thinking I might get the hole permanently filled when the rust is fixed. Moving forward and things in progress; The tailgate needs some attention. I have taken all the trim off to clean it all and address some small rust spots. I have partially done all of this but I'll finish it up hopefully this weekend. As all the trim are now entirely devoid of trim clips I have bought a heap of strong velcro and I'm hoping it does a good enough job as any of this trim in good condition is super expensive and usually in Europe as we dont have many of the wagons here. Suspension and brakes!!! This is exciting. In the front; New control arms New sway bar links New lower Eibach springs (the only modification I'm planning on this car) M Sport shocks (these came with the car and will replace the longer shocks in the car) New top mounts Used 540i calipers (stock brakes suck!) New 540i disks and pads (22x296 mm for 528 and 30x334 mm for 540i) New front wheel bearings (thank all that is holy for bolt on bearings!) Annnnd in the back; New control arms New sway bar links Adjustable air suspension arms (fool the car into what the current height is so the self levelling suspension can match the new front ride height) New ball joints I'll also be doing a brake fluid flush while I'm in there. I'm planning on switching the car over to the 16's that came with it so I can clean up and respray the M Sport 17's. They've lost a lot of colour over the years and have some gutter rash. None of this will start until the E90 is back.
    • You mean you will regret it for drifting duties? I don't quite follow.
×
×
  • Create New...