Jump to content
SAU Community

R34 Traction Control Mods

Proximity Motorsport
 Share

Recommended Posts

Proximity Motorsport Experienced

Proximity Motorsport

Posted
Posted

Hey guys,

I have a mate who has an r34 GTT 4 door auto with Traction Control. He has asked me to fit a highmount turbo and greddy plenum and fab his intercooler piping. He has already purchased a greddy plenum, but was told from a shop he was going to goto the you can't retain the traction control with a forward facing plenum. I had a quick look at his car today, and saw how big the throttle body / tc unit is, so I can understand why it won't fit, but I was thinking, maybe you could just cut the TC part of the throttle body out, and if I have to, weld a 2.5" hose tail to one side if there isnt enough room, and extend the wires, and fit the traction control butterfly in the inner guard or something?

If he can't keep the TC he doesn't want to fit the plenum, but I really want to put it on, as I hate the clutter of factory plenums. Has anyone ever toyed with this idea? Anything you can see going wrong with it?

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/354591-r34-traction-control-mods/
Share on other sites
krzysiu Grand Master

krzysiu

Posted
Posted

He won't do it if it gets rid of tc? Lol wut. Every person I know with r34 tc drives with it off. All the time.

Tell him to make his foot the traction control. Ie don't flat foot it in the wet and you won't need traction contol.

The reason that it would remove the tc is that the tc backs off the revs and won't let the car go. If you change the throttle body with a different one it won't work

Proximity Motorsport Experienced

Proximity Motorsport

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah I know exactly what your saying.. But he wants it, and it's not my car, so I cant tell him what to do. But not sure if you understand what I'm saying. The throttle body and TC unit is one piece, with two butterflies, and the TC has a control unit with motor... and I'm thinking of cutting it in half, so the TC unit is alone with its butterfly, control unit and motor, and plumb it into the cooler pipes in the inner guard, and just want to know if it will still effectively work.

R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

Well tell him to go and pay someone else to do the work.

Obviously you are doing @ cheaper - gotta be harsh sometimes to people who don't think, you're doing him a favour as with a bigher turbo there is NO promise that TC will work correctly and not have an absolute fit 99% of the time as more power/less traction - and a bit of wheelspin will actually make it faster than TC totally shutting down the car

zoidbergmerc Mentor

zoidbergmerc

Posted
Posted

Yeah I know exactly what your saying.. But he wants it, and it's not my car, so I cant tell him what to do. But not sure if you understand what I'm saying. The throttle body and TC unit is one piece, with two butterflies, and the TC has a control unit with motor... and I'm thinking of cutting it in half, so the TC unit is alone with its butterfly, control unit and motor, and plumb it into the cooler pipes in the inner guard, and just want to know if it will still effectively work.

Your theory sounds good, put it into practice and let us know how you go :)

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

The OP suggestion will work in theory.

Also, I believe it was urtwhistle, modified his TC butterfly (shaved it down so that when it closed, it wouldn't fully close the opening) to allow a bit more power through when it kicked in, allows him to chirp 2nd pretty well now with TC enabled, instead of completely dying in the ass.

  • 2 years later...
Chris32 Veteran

Chris32

Posted
Posted

Bit of a thread mine, but thought I'd add to this rather than create a new thread.

When the traction control is engaged, does it do anything with the engine management (pull timing etc) or just close the butterfly?

Has anyone drilled some holes in the butterfly or modified it to make the effects less noticeable but still retain some traction? I like the idea of it, but the effects are a bit harsh

BLKYLO Community Regular

BLKYLO

Posted
Posted

I wouldnt bother.

When i got my car imported two years ago, it was kicking sideways with traction control ON. Of course they took all the parts off it when they complied it -.- , but still, TC will be next to useless with anything close to 200 kw atw.

34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Really you guys are telling fibs

My car with 350 at the wheels still has TC.

I love having TC on when i dont want to die in the wet....

It works...not as well as stock...but it works.....

My car has plenty of power and the TC removed, no issues driving in the wet...

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Yeh I have this handy thing attached to my leg, right at the bottom there. Useful little thing commonly referred to as a 'foot'. The right one is pretty effective for keeping me alive, when it's wet I simply choose to not be an idiot.

TC can suck it.

  • Like 1
34GeeTeeTee Grand Master

34GeeTeeTee

Posted
Posted

Yeh I have this handy thing attached to my leg, right at the bottom there. Useful little thing commonly referred to as a 'foot'. The right one is pretty effective for keeping me alive, when it's wet I simply choose to not be an idiot.

TC can suck it.

Haha :P

  • 1 year later...
lcxu105 Proficient

lcxu105

Posted
Posted

You might find that the engine will go into limp mode shutting down the injectors with the sensor missing. Just had this problem with mine. Had to use stager with deleted TC. Also you can remove the butterfly from the TC as I had done prior to fitting my greeddy manifold.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so a bunch of trim needs to come off to get to the rear shock top mounts. Once the seat is out of the way, the plastic trim needs to come off. Remove 2 clips at the top then slide the trim towards the centre of the car to clear the lower clip Next you need to be able to lift the parcel shelf, which means you need to remove the mid dark trim around the door, and then the upper light trim above the parcel shelf. The mid trim has a clip in the middle to remove first, then lift the lowest trim off the top of the mid trim (unclips). At the top there is a hidden clip on the inner side to release first by pulling inwards, then the main clip releases by pulling the top towards the front of the car. The door seal comes off with the trim, just put them aside. The the lighter upper trim, this is easy to break to top clips so take it carefully. There is a hidden clip towards the bottom and another in the middle to release first by pulling inwards. Once they are out, there are 3 clips along the rear windscreen side of the panel that are hard to get under. This is what the rear of the panel looks like to assist:
×
×
  • Create New...