Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Way too hard, the ATESSA system is rather complex with wiring and pumps and sensors etc.

Cheaper and easier to buy a GTS4.

Yeah I thought as much, I prefer RWD but it would be nice to have the option to switch for 1/4 mile runs and the like ay.

  • Like 1
  • Nope 7

Its another one of those Buy a GTR scenarios.

The amount you'd be looking at to convert a gtst to 4wd would be near to the point where you could sell your current vehicle, then buy a GTR with the remaining cash u would spend on the conversion.

GTS4's arnt all that expensive these days anyway.

  • Like 3

As above - the ATTESSA system is extremely complex. Just the ECU side alone is a headf*k. Plus not many people know too much about it to be able to offer advise when you're half way through it so you'd be stuck if you started it and couldn't finish. GTS4 or GTR :thumbsup:

  • Like 3
  • Nope 1

Its another one of those Buy a GTR scenarios.

The amount you'd be looking at to convert a gtst to 4wd would be near to the point where you could sell your current vehicle, then buy a GTR with the remaining cash u would spend on the conversion.

GTS4's arnt all that expensive these days anyway.

Yeah I think ultimately I'll hold onto my R32 GTST and eventually buy an R32 GTR. GTST will become the track/daily drive, GTR will be the weekender.

  • Like 1
  • Nope 5

you would need:

AWD gearbox (~$1000)

Front sump and diff from an rb26 ($400)

A custom adaptor plate to bolt the 26 sump onto the 25/20 block. (approx $800-1000)

G sensors (~$1000 new, hard to find at wreckers)

Front drive shafts ($?)

Attessa ECU ($?)

Attessa Pump ($?)

Wiring loom for Attessa ($?)

and probably about 20-30 hours labour @ ~$100 p.h...

  • Like 2

Yeah I think ultimately I'll hold onto my R32 GTST and eventually buy an R32 GTR. GTST will become the track/daily drive, GTR will be the weekender.

Sounds like a good plan to me :)

I'm planning to pick up a 32 gtst at some stage in the future for a track build. Would love to track the GTR but im not made of that soft of money :)

  • Like 2

dont gts4's come with all awd??

it would be a much cheaper option then trying to convert.

you would need:

AWD gearbox (~$1000)

Front sump and diff from an rb26 ($400)

A custom adaptor plate to bolt the 26 sump onto the 25/20 block. (approx $800-1000)

G sensors (~$1000 new, hard to find at wreckers)

Front drive shafts ($?)

Attessa ECU ($?)

Attessa Pump ($?)

Wiring loom for Attessa ($?)

and probably about 20-30 hours labour @ ~$100 p.h...

dont gts4's come with all awd??

yes. thats what the name would suggest.

i couldnt agree more that its a waste of time and money. very much a "buy a gtr/gts4" scenario as it would be miles cheaper and prevent you from trying to top yourself from the stress of working it out.

that said, i have seen it done before here in christchurch. it was for sale a while back. i didnt bother asking how much time and money it took.. didnt want to know.

if you mainly use rwd and would only use 4wd once in a blue moon then would it be worth the permanent weight penalty of 100-150kg?

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...