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Car Stalled And Won't Start, Turns Over, Has Spark And Fuel, Ideas?


Rolls
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yeah sounds like any other motor with no spark/fuel trying to start, didn't backfire at all today when I tried it with the cas.

can't completely rule out fuel pump/fuel reg either, might be borderline dead. Whats the best way to test this, I don't have any guages etc, can I test flow by starting it with the return line in a bucket and measure how much comes out? or this going to be horribly inaccurate?

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yeah sounds like any other motor with no spark/fuel trying to start, didn't backfire at all today when I tried it with the cas.

can't completely rule out fuel pump/fuel reg either, might be borderline dead. Whats the best way to test this, I don't have any guages etc, can I test flow by starting it with the return line in a bucket and measure how much comes out? or this going to be horribly inaccurate?

If you have no spark and no fuel your car is never gonna start and I can't see how the CAS and gears are going to give you no fuel and no spark.

I'd be checking

Fuel Pump Relay

Ignitor

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yeah i thought that was the case initially but read this and thought he didn't"

"yeah sounds like any other motor with no spark/fuel trying to start, didn't backfire at all today when I tried it with the cas"

so if he does have spark and fuel pressure and the exhaust gear is all together i'd be going with the timing belt slipping a tooth or two.

How long since you last TB change Rolls?

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yeah i thought that was the case initially but read this and thought he didn't"

"yeah sounds like any other motor with no spark/fuel trying to start, didn't backfire at all today when I tried it with the cas"

so if he does have spark and fuel pressure and the exhaust gear is all together i'd be going with the timing belt slipping a tooth or two.

How long since you last TB change Rolls?

What I meant is it sounds like a car that has no spark or fuel when starting, but it does in fact have spark and I am fairly positive it has some fuel due to the symptoms below and the backfires.

I am 100% I have spark and I can hear the fuel pump priming, feel pressure in the return lines, and can hear the injectors ticking but I cant be 100% it has pressure, will have to get hold of a gauge, I've never tested anything like that before so Im assuming I need some sort of inline pressure gauge but where do I put it, in between the fuel reg and rail?

Car will be towed here some time tomorrow so will pull all the timing gear off on the weekend, check timing and also do a compression test.

TB change? throttle body? I know the throttle at least is working as the pulsing in the exhaust gets louder when attempting to start. TB was changed about a year ago when I went nistune and was cleaned out and checked then.

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What I meant is it sounds like a car that has no spark or fuel when starting, but it does in fact have spark and I am fairly positive it has some fuel due to the symptoms below and the backfires.

I am 100% I have spark and I can hear the fuel pump priming, feel pressure in the return lines, and can hear the injectors ticking but I cant be 100% it has pressure, will have to get hold of a gauge, I've never tested anything like that before so Im assuming I need some sort of inline pressure gauge but where do I put it, in between the fuel reg and rail?

Car will be towed here some time tomorrow so will pull all the timing gear off on the weekend, check timing and also do a compression test.

TB change? throttle body? I know the throttle at least is working as the pulsing in the exhaust gets louder when attempting to start. TB was changed about a year ago when I went nistune and was cleaned out and checked then.

LOL

Sorry rolls i meant timing belt.

If your timing belt has slackened (as they do over time) the belt at high revs can jump a couple of teeth on the gears. This is what I think has happened. I agree with Simon-32 that it is definitely now a timing related issue.

Drain your oil to be sure its just external damage.

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if timing has slipped and valves bent, the oil will still be clean as. so dont worry there.

Rip the cam cover off dude. sounding very much like a slipped belt :S

I'm not saying I'm right man. I can see your posts and your rep. All im saying is thats what I think. Correct me if i'm wrong but he already has his cam cover off.

And with the draining of oil...thats just to make sure you don't have multiple problems.

Edited by Plan-B
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Car is still 8km away, gets towed here tomorrow so can't do anything until then, was planning on taking timing belt cover off to check the timing lines up as elite suggested, is this what you meant by cam cover?

Will certainly drain a bit of oil. doubt there will be much evidence as it hasn't exactly run since this happened.

Just out of curiosity what would happen if no oil got to the cam, would it seize and snap? or would something else happen first (I do not think this has happened, just curious).

Also some extra info, the engine is only about 10,000kms old, forged pistons, rod bolts and new bearings, but it has always been noisy, think they were sloppy on tolerances as it gets a lot of piston slap, however a few people said it could be the lifters rattling? so providing the timing belt was done up properly to start with it shouldn't slacken off in just 10,000kms? Will definitely be checking it all though.

Edited by Rolls
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Car is still 8km away, gets towed here tomorrow so can't do anything until then, was planning on taking timing belt cover off to check the timing lines up as elite suggested, is this what you meant by cam cover?

Will certainly drain a bit of oil. doubt there will be much evidence as it hasn't exactly run since this happened.

Just out of curiosity what would happen if no oil got to the cam, would it seize and snap? or would something else happen first (I do not think this has happened, just curious).

Also some extra info, the engine is only about 10,000kms old, forged pistons, rod bolts and new bearings, but it has always been noisy, think they were sloppy on tolerances as it gets a lot of piston slap, however a few people said it could be the lifters rattling? so providing the timing belt was done up properly to start with it shouldn't slacken off in just 10,000kms? Will definitely be checking it all though.

Well if damage was done internally, metal filings would come out in the oil.

Haven't had any experience with oil not getting to the cam.

Timing belts are usually good for 100,000 or more on skylines. If they have been sloppy though I wouldn't put it past them to have screwed up with the timing belt.

Just out of curiosity, what oil are you running?

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Well if damage was done internally, metal filings would come out in the oil.

Haven't had any experience with oil not getting to the cam.

Timing belts are usually good for 100,000 or more on skylines. If they have been sloppy though I wouldn't put it past them to have screwed up with the timing belt.

Just out of curiosity, what oil are you running?

Metal filings only if the lower bottom end lets go. If pistons collect valves, nothing will show up in the oil

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Well if damage was done internally, metal filings would come out in the oil.

Haven't had any experience with oil not getting to the cam.

oh classic, valve damage producing metal filings... how cute...

please stop now... its hurts

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go back to the wasteland, you cant be wrong there....

Relax, he hasnt said anything ridiculous other than advised the OP to check his oil for any major failure.

Its fine and wasnt something worth arking up about.

Now play nice and concentrate on helping Rolls get his car running again both of you.

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Update:

Car was meant to be towed last night but he couldn't get there in time, anyway decided to go check it out with the consult cable with my mate, first I opened the bonnet and realised there was no longer a bonnet arm to hold it up, thought to myself weird why would anyone nick that.

Anyway then I see broken scissors on the ground and the door luck looks bent, open the door and there is the bonnet arm, so someone bent the window with it, snapped the steering lock, f**ked the ignition barrel then the geniuses realised it wasn't going to start so they stole the $60 for the towing guy marked x TOWING COMPANY, either they are stupid or got spooked cause they left all my tools, gps and amp.

So now I am going to have to replace ignition barrel and get it adjusted for old keys as well, sigh. I guess I can hotwire it in the time being to diagnose the actual fault.

Anyone know where I can get a replacement ignition barrel/steering lock mechanism? I'm guessing it has to be brand new due to the special shear bolts it uses.

Oh and to top it off the laptop went flat so we couldn't even check the consult, talk about kicking you when you are down.

Edited by Rolls
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