Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

I'm currently contemplating buying a .63 rear housing (internally gated and v-band dump) for my 35/40 off Hypergear. Just wondering if anyone has used them in the past and where they happy with what they got.

Is it brand new gear that you get off them or just reconditioned parts and housings? I will probably end up going with them as it seems to be my best option at the moment.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355061-hypergear/
Share on other sites

Get a smaller turbo then.

Putting a .63 on a GT35 will cause undue restriction, and it won't improve things "much" better.

Yeah was thinking of buying a smaller turbo, but dont really have the funds at the moment to do so. I thought i may as well do with what i got at the moment.

Why would Garrett sell a GT35 turbo with a .63 rear housing option if it is not a real good option??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355061-hypergear/#findComment-5685909
Share on other sites

Yeah was thinking of buying a smaller turbo, but dont really have the funds at the moment to do so. I thought i may as well do with what i got at the moment.

Why would Garrett sell a GT35 turbo with a .63 rear housing option if it is not a real good option??

Because they already have the housing.

Offering an option is merely adding to product coverage.

The .63 has its place. But not on a RB25 with a 700hp turbo mate.

By the sound of it you'd be better off with a GT3071 which even in a .82 - would come on sooner than a GT35 with a .63 and be MUCH more linear and progressive (read: less epic wheel spin as boost hits)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355061-hypergear/#findComment-5686433
Share on other sites

Hypergear can provide you with what you want, from what i've seen all the housings etc he has are brand new, not reconditioned

but Ash is spot on the money, the turbo you have is better matched to a 3 - 4 Litre engine, not a 2.5L

and i understand you may not have the funds, but trying to make the turbo you have more responsive is not only a waste of time and money, but you'll find it won't really be what you're looking for, you'll basically be restricting it with such a small rear housing and have fairly erratic power output

a garrett gt3071r or gt3076r 0.82 will both be much better suited to an rb25, in regards to power and response as a package... you won't be dissapointed

the new Garrett GTX3071r 0.82 (the 5 bolt rear garrett design, not modified copies) with correct supporting mods will see power figures of 270-300rwkw on 98ron and response of fullbost (17-19psi) by around 3600-3700rpm ... with slight modifications to the standard heatshields it can be installed to look fairly standard too!... as opposed to your externally gated 3540 which wouldn't look so standard

food for thought

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355061-hypergear/#findComment-5686503
Share on other sites

Thanks heaps guys for your input. Definitely has given me something to think about. And yes Ruffels i do want the engine bay to look somewhat standard as the cops don't really appreciate if a external gate is right there in their face.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355061-hypergear/#findComment-5687227
Share on other sites

A mate with a 3540 went there, Stao have re-configured the front wheel and engineered that into a set of stock R34 turbo housings. It was heaps more responsive after its done, and looks completely stock from out side. from memory it costed just over $400.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355061-hypergear/#findComment-5687263
Share on other sites

That sounds like an even worse option.

I mean you cannot "reconfigure" a wheel. It's either you change it to another one or you don't.

So it wouldn't be a GT35/700hp comp wheel any more for a start, and if it still is - its TOO BIG for those housings as already stated.

Buy a turbo correctly, once. Be happy forever

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355061-hypergear/#findComment-5687286
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jack the back of the car up, pull that wheel off, pull that sensor out, and put a bore scope into the hole to inspect the outer casing, see if anything looks damaged before you pull the whole thing apart.
    • Ergh... So I pulled the speed sensor out again and the tip was shiny so I think it's rubbing the bearing. The bearing contains the magnets for the speed sensor so I think when the first sensor broke it damaged the magnet ring on the bearing.  This is just a Google image, but there is a hole going to the bearing. So when the tip broke off the old sensor I'm guessing it fouled the bearing... As the magnet is only protected by a plastic cover it would be easy to damage it. So I guess I'm doing a bearing again.   
    • My thinking is that if the O2 sensor is shot then your entire above described experience is pure placebo.
    • Here is the mess that I made. That filler there was successful in filling dents in that area. But in the middle area. I can feel dents. And I've gone ocer it multiple times with filler. And the filler is no longer there because i accidently sanded it away. I've chased my tail on this job but this is something else lol. So I'm gonna attempt filler one more time and if it doesn't work I'll just high fill primer the door and see where the issues are because guidecoat is of no use atm.
    • Ok, so I think I sort of figured out where I went wrong. So I definitely overthinked it, and I over sanded, which is probably a large part of the problem. to fix it, I ended up tapping some spots that were likely to be high, made them low, filled them in, and I tackled small sections at a time, and it feels a lot better.    I think what confused me as well is you have the bare metal, and some spots darker and some are lighter, and when I run my finger across it, it' would feel like it's a low spot, but I think it's just a transition in different texture from metal to body filler.    When your finger's sliding on the body filler, and crosses over to the bare metal, going back and forth, it feels like it's a low spot. So I kept putting filler there and sanding, but I think it was just a transition in texture, nothing to do with the low or high spot. But the panel's feels a lot better, and I'm just going to end up priming it, and then I'll block it after with guide coat.   Ended up wasting just about all of my filler on this damn door lol  
×
×
  • Create New...