Jump to content
SAU Community

Another Gtr Not Starting

bunno32gtr

By bunno32gtr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

bunno32gtr Contributor

bunno32gtr

Posted
Posted

A week ago i was driving on the highway car was running beautiful and then it made a small backfire noise started missing and then died when my foot hit the clutch.

I towed it home and now it won't start.

I have put another cas sensor on it and same story.

I have since checked.

Timing and it was all good.

Spark and coils working fine.

Pulled plug off injectors and checked with multimeter which showed no volts and then 10 when it pulsed. Not sure if that is ok.

Fuel rail is pressurizing and the pump is priming.

Battery shows 12.4 volts but engine is turning over slowly.

Could it not be starting due to not cranking fast enough.

Please help it's killing me not knowing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355165-another-gtr-not-starting/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
Posted

No it should still fire regardless of whether the cooler pipes are on, might just need some throttle as the un-metered air makes is screwy. Unplug both AFM's and try again, this will put it into a limp home mode which makes the AFR's a bit better for starting.

First point of call if you running a standard ECU is to put it into diags and look for fault codes. Takes so much guess work away from something like this. If you haven't already done this then please try that next.

After that I would do this:

1. Pull fuel line going to rail and check fuel comes out with the first 10 sec prime with ACC on.

2. Pull coil and spark out of no1

3. Pull fuel pump relay out after testing rail pressure

4. Switch IGN to ON

5. Remove CAS and spin it over by hand the direction of the motor (Clockwise with the CAS facing it's orginal position)

6. Verify coil no1 you pulled out earlier sparks (Insure spark is grounding on cylinder head properly)

7. Verify you can hear the injectors ticking, should be quite noticeable without the noise of the motor cranking

See how you go.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Have you got compression?

Injectors should have constant 12V on one pin, the other pin gets switched to earth by the ECU.

There should be a tutorial on how to get diagnostics.

(And how do you check timing if the engine won't run?)

hypo31_abz Explorer

hypo31_abz

Posted
Posted

it could be from the piping as said, my r33 had the same proplem it back fired a little then shut off, it still started everytime it clonked out. the intercoller pipe was out leading from the manifold

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

If ur handy with auto electrics at all. Try running a wire from the positive on the battery to the injector positive(make sure its the positive, should be the same colour wire on all injectors) U only have to connect to 1 of the injector positive wires as there all connected to 1 source. See if ur car starts now. If it does then there might be a break in ur wiring loom somewhere or the ecu injector drive might be fried.

Pezhead Grand Master

Pezhead

Posted
Posted

All motors just need three things - air, fuel & spark.

On my Autronic, if the computer doesn't get at least 12.5v then it will not start even if it will crank over. Be sure to charge up the battery to be sure the ECU is getting full voltage.

By the way you said it stopped sounds like fuel or spark to me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Wheel alignment immediately. Not "when I get around to it". And further to what Duncan said - you cannot just put camber arms on and shorten them. You will introduce bump steer far in excess of what the car had with stock arms. You need adjustable tension arms and they need to be shortened also. The simplest approach is to shorten them the same % as the stock ones. This will not be correct or optimal, but it will be better than any other guess. The correct way to set the lengths of both arms is to use a properly built/set up bump steer gauge and trial and error the adjustments until you hit the camber you need and want and have minimum bump steer in the range of motion that the wheel is expected to travel. And what Duncan said about toe is also very true. And you cannot change the camber arm without also affecting toe. So when you have adjustable arms on the back of a Skyline, the car either needs to go to a talented wheel aligner (not your local tyre shop dropout), or you need to be able to do this stuff yourself at home. Guess which approach I have taken? I have built my own gear for camber, toe and bump steer measurement and I do all this on the flattest bit of concrete I have, with some shims under the tyres on one side to level the car.
    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
×
×
  • Create New...