Jump to content
SAU Community

Another Gtr Not Starting

bunno32gtr

By bunno32gtr,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

bunno32gtr Contributor

bunno32gtr

Posted
Posted

A week ago i was driving on the highway car was running beautiful and then it made a small backfire noise started missing and then died when my foot hit the clutch.

I towed it home and now it won't start.

I have put another cas sensor on it and same story.

I have since checked.

Timing and it was all good.

Spark and coils working fine.

Pulled plug off injectors and checked with multimeter which showed no volts and then 10 when it pulsed. Not sure if that is ok.

Fuel rail is pressurizing and the pump is priming.

Battery shows 12.4 volts but engine is turning over slowly.

Could it not be starting due to not cranking fast enough.

Please help it's killing me not knowing.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355165-another-gtr-not-starting/
Share on other sites
  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
Posted

No it should still fire regardless of whether the cooler pipes are on, might just need some throttle as the un-metered air makes is screwy. Unplug both AFM's and try again, this will put it into a limp home mode which makes the AFR's a bit better for starting.

First point of call if you running a standard ECU is to put it into diags and look for fault codes. Takes so much guess work away from something like this. If you haven't already done this then please try that next.

After that I would do this:

1. Pull fuel line going to rail and check fuel comes out with the first 10 sec prime with ACC on.

2. Pull coil and spark out of no1

3. Pull fuel pump relay out after testing rail pressure

4. Switch IGN to ON

5. Remove CAS and spin it over by hand the direction of the motor (Clockwise with the CAS facing it's orginal position)

6. Verify coil no1 you pulled out earlier sparks (Insure spark is grounding on cylinder head properly)

7. Verify you can hear the injectors ticking, should be quite noticeable without the noise of the motor cranking

See how you go.

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Have you got compression?

Injectors should have constant 12V on one pin, the other pin gets switched to earth by the ECU.

There should be a tutorial on how to get diagnostics.

(And how do you check timing if the engine won't run?)

hypo31_abz Explorer

hypo31_abz

Posted
Posted

it could be from the piping as said, my r33 had the same proplem it back fired a little then shut off, it still started everytime it clonked out. the intercoller pipe was out leading from the manifold

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

If ur handy with auto electrics at all. Try running a wire from the positive on the battery to the injector positive(make sure its the positive, should be the same colour wire on all injectors) U only have to connect to 1 of the injector positive wires as there all connected to 1 source. See if ur car starts now. If it does then there might be a break in ur wiring loom somewhere or the ecu injector drive might be fried.

Pezhead Grand Master

Pezhead

Posted
Posted

All motors just need three things - air, fuel & spark.

On my Autronic, if the computer doesn't get at least 12.5v then it will not start even if it will crank over. Be sure to charge up the battery to be sure the ECU is getting full voltage.

By the way you said it stopped sounds like fuel or spark to me.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The king 2.0
      Nissan fuga 450gt android screen

      By The king 2.0 · Posted

      Hi guys . Can someone help me  I bought an Android screen for my Nissan fuga but it won't turn on   
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      My guesstimate, with no real numbers to back it up, is it won't effect it greatly at all.its not a huge change in position, and I can't see the air flow changing from in turbulence that much based on distance, and what's in front of it. Johnny and Brad may have some more numbers to share from experience though.
    • dbm7
      Automatic Power Button Light Flashing

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Duncan
      R34 Plug Identification

      By Duncan · Posted

      Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
×
×
  • Create New...