Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Cas Problem

PewPew

By PewPew,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

PewPew Proficient

PewPew

Posted
Posted

Hey guys. I just changed the timing belt cover on my RB26, which requires the removal of the CAS from the front of the engine. After I put it back on and started the car, I can hear knocking from the engine. I don't think I lined the CAS up the exact same as when it came out. Is there a way I can find how I should put it back in?

Thanks in advance.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355730-rb26-cas-problem/
Share on other sites
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

There is basically only one way that the CAS can be fitted that will permit the engine to run. The only difference from where it was before you disassembled it is the base timing setting that you will now have, and you can check that with a timing light.

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

It should have a dowel location pin inside the spline. If that is lined up then u need to get a timing light and set the position of the cas.

It should be fairly central in the elongated holes on the front.

If its knocking (i guess u mean pinging) when driving full boost then u need to back the timing off, so loosen the cas bolts just enough so u can rotate it, then with the engine running rotate the cas anti clockwise a couple of mm, this should lower the idle and retard the timing, if the idle rises then rotate the other way till the idle lowers.

But really u need a timing light and set to 20degrees at idle then test.

PewPew Proficient

PewPew

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There is basically only one way that the CAS can be fitted that will permit the engine to run. The only difference from where it was before you disassembled it is the base timing setting that you will now have, and you can check that with a timing light.

Thanks for the quick reply. So you reckon use a timing light and adjust the timing until it idles well? Won't it damage my engine running it while its knocking?

PewPew Proficient

PewPew

Posted
  • Author
Posted

It should have a dowel location pin inside the spline. If that is lined up then u need to get a timing light and set the position of the cas.

It should be fairly central in the elongated holes on the front.

If its knocking (i guess u mean pinging) when driving full boost then u need to back the timing off, so loosen the cas bolts just enough so u can rotate it, then with the engine running rotate the cas anti clockwise a couple of mm, this should lower the idle and retard the timing, if the idle rises then rotate the other way till the idle lowers.

But really u need a timing light and set to 20degrees at idle then test.

It's pinging on idle as soon as I turn the engine on. pinch.gif

Didn't sound good so I turned it off straight away.

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Oh wow. U definately stuffed something up then. Take it back out and make sure the dowel pin is inside the cam. Then align the cas so it goes in past it. ( half the dowel is in cam other half is in cas) u will see what i mean when u look for it.

Make sure that is aligned then set the cas rotationto centre for now and try again

PewPew Proficient

PewPew

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah mate, there's a half moon on the CAS and also one inside the cam which come together to form a dowel. I loosened the 3 CAS bolts and moved it around a bit, then hand tightened the bolts with the socket tip which seems to have fixed the problem. But whenever I tighten it with a wrench, even half a turn, it starts pinging again. angry.gif

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

Are you sure the cas is not rubbing on the cam gear because maybe the timing cover is a different thickness, because I remember when I forgot to put spacers when I ran no timing cover and it made a noise like that and not long til the cas died. Because there is no way you can put it in the wrong way it only goes one way as other said and as you said it only come on when you tighten it then Im guessing its touching.

Deano 1 Mentor

Deano 1

Posted
Posted

there not just a peace of rubber mate, they are a washer all the rubber does is keep all 3 washers together so u can put it all on at once, imagine trying to slip 1 washer on at a time, while sliping in a bolt and not droping them down in behide the cover. The idea is to make it easy, if u want to just use washers casue u dont have the factory one, u will need to Find the perfect size washers to make it sit in the same spot as factory... like Jez said.... or you will smash your cas, im amazed you havnt already to be honest.

PewPew Proficient

PewPew

Posted
  • Author
Posted

U need to find out exactly how big the spacers are. Ur better off getting a genuine one. Ur old cover should have it?

Yeah the old cover has it but it's all crusty and when I try to peel it off it just snaps. I kept the washers that were already on the bolts, and just added an extra rubber washer which was the same thickness as the rubber gasket, which would make it sit exactly as it would normally.

I understand this probably isn't the best approach.. so I'll probably head down to my local dealership tomorrow and order a new OEM gasket. Gave 'em a call today and was told I'll have to get one in from Japan.

Again, thanks for the input guys cheers.gif

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Yeah the rule of thumb with an LS is 7psi per 1000rpm. That is decidedly not enough at 6800rpm. I mainly looked for the scenarios where knock started to be picked up and it was later in the session when things were hotter, and oil was thinner, and the pressure was lower than it should be. (i.e very horrible). I am hoping with thicker oil (I was running Penrite ten tenths 10-40, the manual specifies 10-30) that does not leak that it's much improved at that time!!! I am using Project Mu Club Racer CR pads. I'm also using the Project Mu 335C fluid. The symptoms imply that it was fluid that boiled, but no bubbles seemed pretty weird to me when I bled it today. I want to try Castrol SRF as it has a much higher wet temp but, well, I have new Project Mu fluid lol... so I should at least use that. The pedal on track was really noticable. It went from basically normal feeling to instantly near-floor. The car did pull up as before, it was just very much nearly at the floor before the brakes engaged. At that point I pretty much decided the day was very done, it did *kinda* come back during that very slow cooldown lap into the pits. Felt perfectly fine driving home.
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      f**king around with the bro
    • fatz
      Beers and skylines Fatz style

      By fatz · Posted

      Ludenham   44.2 tops day no issues  
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then today, I went to visit a man with an r33 hat Peter and Road and Race sorted the alignment. As it is being set up for general track/hillclimbs etc it has a heap of caster (7o), less camber than I am used to (1o front and 2o rear, as the caster looks after that in turns without the braking downsides), 3mm front toe out and 0 toe rear. Will see how that goes and track tyre wear to see if it does need more camber, but adjsustment is also limited with nismo arms and adjustable bushes at only 1 end. It does have a bent inner tie rod on the driver's side front but as it came up within spec I'll just leave that as is. So, that is getting close to my chapter of this story....could of tidy ups then a shakedown in early October before it finds a new home.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, it went to Unigroup for a run in and tune on Friday, everything went (generally) well. In terms of fixes, the engine was good and there were no leaks. It needed plugs (I hadn't checked them because the coil pack cover was on a new engine and I couldn't imagine they weren't new.....but turns out the temporary plugs to just keep it sealed up were in there.....new plugs gapped to 0.8 and it was fine from there. Also, there was a little preload on the clutch slave which caused some slip. I haven't had the box off so I don't know what the clutch looks like; my guess it is brand new and the pedal had not been adjusted....backed that off a bit and it held fine. Last thing will have Dose crying....the idle especially when cold is a bit difficult between the cams, forward plenum, atmo blow off valve and an 80s air management system. It is fine when hot but a little uneven when cold, will see if I can sort or at least improve that one cold morning. Other than that, tuning went fine. It made 245 but was pulled back to 227 which 2 opportunities to improve in future. 1. The factory CAS is not great and was jumping around at high RPM, so Mark took 2 degrees out up top (that is why it stops making power and lost 20kw). Very safe this way and the extra power is available but will require a more modern ECU and better cam (or even better crank) sensor 2. The 2871 in factory housings is very big for a low mount, and the internal wastegate is too small, so it was creeping from mid range all the way to redline....the duty cycle on the boost controller is turned down a little for safety. That is much harder to fix, it would need a large external gate and that would require a whole bunch of other changes, so it will go as it is for now. It feels nice and healthy and safe, so should be good for about a billion laps like this.
×
×
  • Create New...