Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys,

i want to know what are the usual subsquent events when a crankshaft is snapped? rods break? bearings? pistons? all gone too?

the car im about to buy had snapped a crankshaft and required a full rebuild, its all been fixed now, but im just curious as to what happens when it snaps? what will need replacing and repairing? this question is in relation of a rb26, not that it should make a difference.

i asked this qn in a thread before but i think my title was not appealing enough to attract attention and repsonse.

cheers guys :thumbsup:

Edited by vspecR
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/355987-snapping-a-crankshaft/
Share on other sites

Oh also you'd want to get the car cheap given that damage.

Crank $1300

Rods $1000 for decent ones like Argo

Pistons $1300

Oil pump (N1) $300 odd

Water pump$200 odd

Timing belt $100

Bearings, machining, assembly etc with stock bolts depending on where you go start around $4000 and R and R.

Hope that helps.

Thanks Steve, it does help

No the previous owner of the car lost the receipt, but the workshop that did the work said the bill ended up to be around the 17k. does that sound about right?

but they cant remember exactly what they replaced as it was over a year ago. i know they replaced the shaft, rods, rings and piston and turbos. if an engine goes would the turbos get damaged too?

Turbos may have been ceramic stockers and replaced cause they're pretty much useless on a built motor. Or maybe something from inside the motor went through them - who knows

17k sounds right, there must be some decent bits on there now for that money

amazes me when people spend this much money on something and cant even keep the receipt in a safe place.

Yeah I find that hard to believe. Since having the receipt is so important when selling the car, you'd have to be a retard not to hang on to it.

OP - will the workshop provide a copy of the receipt? Shouldn't be a problem as they have already confirmed verbally that they did the work. If not, I'd assume there is no build and you are buying stock, and work out the value on that basis.

The price this GTR r34 is going is basically the price of a stock one. so anything performance part in the car is just a bonus.

I dont know why the workshop hasnt got the recept either, but they have gone out of their way to trace the suppliers the some parts numbers for me, so i dont want to hassle them too much.

this is what the tuner/builder told me:

the owner had a stock engine and turbos, with just a boost controller. he decieded to run over 25psi and eventually snapped the crankshaft

he then rebuilt it using forged pistons and rods (not much detail and he coudlnt rememeber)

after he rebuilt it, they keep the ecu and set the boost contorller to 12psi.

that was the last time he saw the car lol.

anyways to me, the owner is basically a bogan that works up in the mines that earns too much cash and know literally nothing about cars. When i asked him about the build, he just said, i dont know, i just knows its FAST AS f**k. lol

so i asked for the builder/tuners name as i couldnt get anything info off the owner.

thanks guys appreciate your opinions :)

25psi and snapping a crankshaft???? thats a pretty hard thing to do. unless you had some very bad oil problems. usually would be a fked bearing, or melted/broken piston. the crank is most likely going to be the last thing to snap

ive gotten some cranks strength tested, and most of them snapped after about 700hp and 700nm tourque.

(BMW, VW and Audi cranks ive gotten tested) so nothing jap. but these were from the 1.8l engines too

just make sure you can get a receipt, or its stock. no proof no purchase i guess :)

or just offer him 5k below that price and just buy yourself a second hand motor and swap it out as a just in case, if its already going for that cheap

The price this GTR r34 is going is basically the price of a stock one. so anything performance part in the car is just a bonus.

I dont know why the workshop hasnt got the recept either, but they have gone out of their way to trace the suppliers the some parts numbers for me, so i dont want to hassle them too much.

this is what the tuner/builder told me:

the owner had a stock engine and turbos, with just a boost controller. he decieded to run over 25psi and eventually snapped the crankshaft

So the stock turbos survive at 25 psi but the crank doesnt? WTF? Too many weird and convoluted stories with this one - my dodginess alarm is going off. Personally, I wouldnt buy it.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...