Jump to content
SAU Community

Mitsubishi Killing Off The Evo?

FrangaR33
 Share

Recommended Posts

FrangaR33 Mentor

FrangaR33

Posted
Posted

Link to original article.

I truly wonder if they would kill off a profitable car, provided of course the Evo is actually profitable, considering the massive amount of money must go into R&D for every model.

The Mitsubishi Lancer Evolution X could be the last Evo model from the Japanese brand, according to reports out of the Geneva Motor Show.

UK publication Autocar spoke with Mitsubishi Motors Corporation (MMC) global product director, Gayu Eusegi, who revealed that there would be no ‘Evo XI’ successor.

“There is still a demand [for the car] … but we must stop,” Mr Eusegi said. “Our influence is now EV technology.”

At the beginning of this year, Mitsubishi announced it would launch eight new hybrid, plug-in hybrid and fully electric vehicles by 2015, as the brand moves towards a new alternative energy future.

Mr Eusegi said the rally-bred Evolution franchise did not fit with the “policy change” at MMC.

“Maybe the world can change, and maybe someday we can do a motor race by electric vehicles. Maybe then we can enter the market again,” he said.

Mitsubishi Australia’s Lenore Fletcher said she personally had not heard any news about the end of the Evo from MMC head office, but said she had a call in to try to get to get the official word.

Ms Fletcher admitted the brand was heavily focused on hybrid and electric vehicles in the short term.

With the 6000th i-MiEV delivered recently, she said Mitsubishi was determined to further diversify its alternative energy offerings, with plans to introduce a hybrid or EV variant into every model line in the range.

“That will be a huge platform for us going forward,” Ms Fletcher said.

Despite this, she said hybrids and EVs did not necessarily mean the end of performance vehicles from Mitsubishi, with the potential for sports models to be based on the new efficient vehicle architectures.

The Mitsubishi Evolution is one of the most legendary nameplates in recent automotive history, particularly in rally, street and tuning circles.

The original Lancer Evolution I was launched in October 1992, designed to compete in the World Rally Championship. It produced 182kW of power and 309Nm of torque, and had a top speed of 228km/h.

The current-generation Lancer Evolution X follows the trend of all Evos before it, with a 2.0-litre turbocharged engine and an all-wheel drive system. It produces 217kW of power and 366Nm of torque, and in top-spec MR TC-SST form, accelerates from 0-100km/h in 5.8 seconds.

CarAdvice will bring you more news on the future of the Evolution franchise when we hear more.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/356059-mitsubishi-killing-off-the-evo/
Share on other sites
FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted

Probably more to do with the economic down turn than anything else.

Holden dropped the monaro, Nissan dropped the gtr. Plenty of examples of this kind of thing happenning before.

No doubt it will make a rerun some time in the future with much ado and fan fare.

  • Like 2
  • Nope 2
mad082 Grand Master

mad082

Posted
Posted

Evo X goes from 0-100 in 5.8seconds? Surely that's an error. I thought they were way quicker.

nah, in a straight line the evo 9 is quicker than a evo 10 (and all the stats on paper make it look faster than the newer version), however around a track the evo 10 is usually quicker.

CONRAD Community Regular

CONRAD

Posted
Posted (edited)

Sorry boys but I have to pop in and say that buying an evo was the best purchase I've ever made.

Starting with an R33 gtst in the 90's (when they were relatively rare) worked in the usual mods including suspension, an FC RX-7 with a brand new rebuilt engine (paid by me) with a bridge port exhaust boost etc, a GTiR with mods, then a gc8 in wrx in blue, a mitsubishi Legnum (which shat on the wrx - if you couldnt stretch to a 30k evo 8.5/9 then it would be my car of choice, just awesome), an R32 GTR with N1 turbos SARD 700 injectors aftermarket ECU Tune by a really reputable shop fuel pump ohlins suspension and the rest of the works (a tune mid modification made 260kw at all 4).

And then a gun metal grey Evo 8MR with zorst, cams ecu and few bolt ons (the best bit is that you don't have to build the engine chasing that power and shit - they dont go pop, like my GTR after after a year (spun bottom end bearing)...... which in my mind tears the other competition apart through the adelaide hills.

Sorry.. but those thinking that all evos are 0-100 in 5.6 are in denial. Try mid low 4 seconds (8.5/9 model evo with the usual mods) - seriously. Also there are dudes using E85 with lesser engine mods than mine and making more power than my GTR! Sure you could also just as eay use that fuel to spark the r32, but as a package that GOs, stops and handles... the Evo has it at that price tag. Oh, and the all the carbon pieces from factory, aluminium roof etc never get old.

Look the gtr would probably pull infront on a drag strip, but in the real world the evo would chop it off the lights more regularly - unless I was in the gtr and dumping it at 7K and using the last two weeks pay to keep rebuilding clutches. But its in the hills that the BRAKES and HANDLING just absolutly out shine the the other cars I've driven.

This is my experience and I'm sure there are R34's out there (built like the Mines car) that would say hang on I'm the faster biaaatch.

But for dollar measure and as a long standing and still Nissan fan - I recommend peeps branch out and try and Evo 8MR through the twisties or on the track. I think you may be somewhat surprised.

Heres a small snap of mine:

av-1799.jpg

Edited by CONRAD
R31Nismoid Grand Master

R31Nismoid

Posted
Posted

So basically they are following Toyota in making only white good A-B eco boxes & going into this all "green" crap...

Given the way emission rules are going just for cars - let alone the whole "carbon" bullshit around the world

They are being forced too as at the end of the day they want profit, not please people.

Mayuri Krab Grand Master

Mayuri Krab

Posted
Posted

If I was rich (with extra $$$ to burn) I want to do what Clarkson did in one of his DVDs, go & buy some crap A-B eco box (I'll choose a Prius) & then smash it with a sludge hammer in front of the dealer.

  • Like 1
Birds Grand Master

Birds

Posted
Posted

If I was rich I'd put a dirty old V8 into a prius, bribe some engineer to pass it, and drive around with bumper stickers all over the thing bragging about how green I am.

  • Like 1
Silvia GTR Mentor

Silvia GTR

Posted
Posted

I'm getting sick of companies killing off iconic cars... Carbon tax Bullshit

If I was rich I'd put a dirty old V8 into a prius, bribe some engineer to pass it, and drive around with bumper stickers all over the thing bragging about how green I am.

lmfao

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      I thought I'd do a write up on an auto transmission fluid change for a the nissan 7 speed Automatic. At some stage the genius engineers decided that the fluid in the trans was "for the life of the transmission", (which seems kind of self supporting to me) and removed the dip stick and fill tube (funnily enough there is still a casting for it). Anyway, for this job you do need 2 specialist tools in addition to regular hand tools, jack and good chassis stands. You need a way to pump fluid up to the transmission; I got one of these but there are plenty of other options: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/364584087070 Don't trust the generic listing though, it does not come with the required adapter for the Nissan 7 Speed. You need one of these, can't do the job without it: https://navarapart.com.au/product/genuine-nissan-patrol-y62-d23-np300-navara-re7-dipstick-fill-connector1 You need a heap of compatible transmission oil. Could be Nissan, could be anything else rated for Nissan Matic S. You need at least 10 litres, I had 15 to give it a better flush... Also, you need some biiig oil catch trays, at least one of these, or bigger if possible (volume was fine, size was very marginal): https://autobarn.com.au/ab/Autobarn-Category/Tools-%26-Garage/Specialty-Tools/Oil-Service/Garage-Tough-Oil-Drain-Pan-Black-16L---GT1068/p/TO03191 Finally, a measuring jug is very useful if your pump does not have volumes marked on it, I got a 6l one: https://www.repco.com.au/oils-fluids/fluid-accessories/measuring-jugs/penrite-measuring-jug-6l-pmj006/p/A5322648 Oh, and gloves.....this stuff is horrible (not as bad as diff oil, but getting there) ....First, jack up your car.....
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • GTSBoy
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
×
×
  • Create New...