Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Don't like the bar of the vertex for some reason.

Widebody looks awesome.. but the costs?? you'll need to get the rears welded in, and then the whole car resprayed wouldn't you? Or am I missing something?

Also, don't forget, in that shot thats about 1mm off the ground like many jap cars. Looks great like that, but try picturing it 10cm or so off the ground. Might look funny. Even if you lowered it to 0cm clearance :P, just imagine trying to actually drive it anywhere -- wouldn't last long before you killed it on a drivethrough or whatever. The practicalities just dont seem so good.

and being in VIC... cops soo love lowered cars there of course.

How hard do you drive?

If u visit the track often that whole mass of fiberglass that comes with that widebody kit is going to be a huge liability....i'd imagine you having to patch things up every now and then

IMHO i like the vertex kit, very clean and nice...but if your car was that low as in the pics....theres a very good chance you will clip the front bar if you spin out on the tracks....

Have u seen how often bits of bodykit fall off the D1 cars when they spin out?

Shan... BN Sports wins by a mile, the vertex is good... but everyone will have one soon coz it seems easy to recreate.

also the bn widebody looks phat... u can keep the rims for a while.. and then get some good ones when u get some more money.. it'll just look a little bit weird..

hehe

dave, spot on with godfather... its actually a cross between a vertex and a west kit, i like calling it the vertex kit coz well... it looks like one. only diff is in the angle of the rear bumper to mudgurad section and also the nose of the front bumper.

As for tracks... hehe its a GTS... nuff said :P When I convert it to an RB20DET (or maybe even RB25DET or RB20/26DET hybrid engine, all depending on how much I have left over) I won't be taking it to the tracks for driftwork, if anything it'll only be to check out my 1/4 mile times.

I am concerned about the look of the car without the smaller clearance, but in my photochops it still looks OK. As for paintwork and fitting, its all covered by insurance claim (hence why it plays a major role in my criteria). Oh well I've bought both of em, I might even fit em both on, see how they look and then decide.

Oh and I have plans to modify the BN sports kit as well... make it a lil more meaner (like with exagerated wheel arches and instead of the rear being so curvy at the top (which looks ugly imho) make it more like an S15 look at the back.

One thing that bugs me is that my car's a limited edition, and anything I do to it just takes away from that... ahh well...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...